Tuesday, August 6, 2013

First crossing on a Leopard 44

We left Cape Town just over a week ago. What a pleasure to be on a Leopard
44. I have crossed oceans in the Leopard 38,39,40,43,46,48 and the
Leopard 58, and for some reason never did a 44. What a well balanced boat
she is, a unique character as all the Leopards are. I sailed one from Cape
Town to Durban in 2009. Really well appointed catamaran, excellent usage
of space and spacious living areas. We are having lots of fun taking her
through all types of conditions, or rather she taking us through it all,
safely and securely, building huge confidence in her abilities. And like
the other Leopards she is really easy to sail. One person can set the
sails without a spilling a drop of sweat, due to electric winches and well
placed winches, sheets and lines. There is a reason why the Leopards are
one of the top selling catamarans in the world, or rather, there are many.

Into slight headwinds and 3m swells we started, taking it gently and
getting our sealegs tested early on in the journey. The wind started
backing as predicted and soon the northwesterlies turned into westerlies
before she faded three days out. We got completely becalmed, the sea
turning into a huge shining mirror with not even a ripple on the surface.
The sun was out and we were out in our shorts and t-shirts, enjoying the
great weather. That night we ran into thick fog, with visibilty down to 10
meters max.

Eerie, scary situation, in a busy shipping lane and fishing boats
around. All we could do was give our position on the VHF every 15
minutes,, the direction which we were moving in and the speed we
maintained. A few ships altered course for us. First Mate Malcolm
contrived a radar reflector from heavy duty aluminium foil which he
mounted on the helming station. It was a deadly situation. No ways we
would have time to take avertive action should we see a ship coming
straight at us. Strange that such danger can lurk in such extreme calm and
serene conditions. We had our epirb ready in case we were taken out. We
reckoned that if we wear life jackets it will just take longer to die in
this cold grey water, it will just prolong our suffering, and hence we did
not wear them.

I have weathered some seriously scary storms out here, but none compares
to this sitting duck scenario. In a storm it is one on one, you are given
a change to fight for your life. Sailors of old did not learn to swim for
this very reason. In a stormy sea nobody can fight and win should you fall
overboard, and swimming will just prolong the inevitable. Nowadays though
there are personal epirbs, self inflating life jackets you can wear all
the time, and if the water is not too cold and you have a sharp crew on
board, the changes of finding a person that fell overboard, day or night,
is much better than years ago. Death we do not fear, but freezing to death
is not our idea of dying pleasantly out here. The fog moved in at about
8pm and only lifted at 10am the next morning. We did not speak much during
this period, as our thoughts were far away.

But we lived to tell the tale, and no sailing school or establishment or
book for that matter will tell you to use your VHF in such conditions. Or
how to stay calm, and how to keep your crew calm. Under any and all
conditions. Out here we deal with real situations, not theoretical
situations. I stand to be corrected on this, and will be pleasantly
surprised if I am proven wrong. No amount of theory can substitute
experience. There is always room for improvement though.

As the fog lifted the wind softly started building from the south. We
could now let out our headsail to assist the motor. The next day we
turned the motor off and at last we were doing what we love doing most,
sailing. we have now been sailing on the trot for four days, and our
weather prospects looks good for another few days. We expect to arrive at
St.Helena on Saturday the 10th of August. We will spend a day or two there
and then the long run to the Caribbean.

We are having regular visits from various species of dolphins which is
always a great blessing. Came up for watch one morning and on my steps a
seabird was sitting. my crew informed me that he flew in but they do not
want to disturb him, suspecting he may be injured. Creatures out here are
not scared of humans. I folded my hands around the bird's body and softly
placed him on the table outside. He spread his wings and the breeze from
behind lifted him, and off he went. Made a few circles around the boat and
dissapeared into the blue horizon. What an awesome blessing it was, leaving
one elated yet humble.

If you secretly think that sailing is an escape from reality, then you are
wrong. It depends ofcourse what you consider reality to be. In the most
universal sense of the word, we are not escaping reality at all, but
moving closer to it all the time. You think that what you see daily on tv
is reality and you are right. There is a much bigger reality though,
beyond life and death, and this is the reality we experience out here. An
eternal, infinite reality. Hope to share some glimpses of it.

First crossing on a Leopard 44

We left Cape Town just over a week ago. What a pleasure to be on a Leopard
44. I have crossed oceans in the Leopard 38,39,40,43,46,48 and the
Leopard 58, and for some reason never did a 44. What a well balanced boat
she is, a unique character as all the Leopards are. I sailed one from Cape
Town to Durban in 2009. Really well appointed catamaran, excellent usage
of space and spacious living areas. We are having lots of fun taking her
through all types of conditions, or rather she taking us through it all,
safely and securely, building huge confidence in her abilities. And like
the other Leopards she is really easy to sail. One person can set the
sails without a spilling a drop of sweat, due to electric winches and well
placed winches, sheets and lines. There is a reason why the Leopards are
one of the top selling catamarans in the world, or rather, there are many.

Into slight headwinds and 3m swells we started, taking it gently and
getting our sealegs tested early on in the journey. The wind started
backing as predicted and soon the northwesterlies turned into westerlies
before she faded three days out. We got completely becalmed, the sea
turning into a huge shining mirror with not even a ripple on the surface.
The sun was out and we were out in our shorts and t-shirts, enjoying the
great weather. That night we ran into thick fog, with visibilty down to 10
meters max.

Eerie, scary situation, in a busy shipping lane and fishing boats
around. All we could do was give our position on the VHF every 15
minutes,, the direction which we were moving in and the speed we
maintained. A few ships altered course for us. First Mate Malcolm
contrived a radar reflector from heavy duty aluminium foil which he
mounted on the helming station. It was a deadly situation. No ways we
would have time to take avertive action should we see a ship coming
straight at us. Strange that such danger can lurk in such extreme calm and
serene conditions. We had our epirb ready in case we were taken out. We
reckoned that if we wear life jackets it will just take longer to die in
this cold grey water, it will just prolong our suffering, and hence we did
not wear them.

I have weathered some seriously scary storms out here, but none compares
to this sitting duck scenario. In a storm it is one on one, you are given
a change to fight for your life. Sailors of old did not learn to swim for
this very reason. In a stormy sea nobody can fight and win should you fall
overboard, and swimming will just prolong the inevitable. Nowadays though
there are personal epirbs, self inflating life jackets you can wear all
the time, and if the water is not too cold and you have a sharp crew on
board, the changes of finding a person that fell overboard, day or night,
is much better than years ago. Death we do not fear, but freezing to death
is not our idea of dying pleasantly out here. The fog moved in at about
8pm and only lifted at 10am the next morning. We did not speak much during
this period, as our thoughts were far away.

But we lived to tell the tale, and no sailing school or establishment or
book for that matter will tell you to use your VHF in such conditions. Or
how to stay calm, and how to keep your crew calm. Under any and all
conditions. Out here we deal with real situations, not theoretical
situations. I stand to be corrected on this, and will be pleasantly
surprised if I am proven wrong. No amount of theory can substitute
experience. There is always room for improvement though.

As the fog lifted the wind softly started building from the south. We
could now let out our headsail to assist the motor. The next day we
turned the motor off and at last we were doing what we love doing most,
sailing. we have now been sailing on the trot for four days, and our
weather prospects looks good for another few days. We expect to arrive at
St.Helena on Saturday the 10th of August. We will spend a day or two there
and then the long run to the Caribbean.

We are having regular visits from various species of dolphins which is
always a great blessing. Came up for watch one morning and on my steps a
seabird was sitting. my crew informed me that he flew in but they do not
want to disturb him, suspecting he may be injured. Creatures out here are
not scared of humans. I folded my hands around the bird's body and softly
placed him on the table outside. He spread his wings and the breeze from
behind lifted him, and off he went. Made a few circles around the boat and
dissapeared into the blue horizon. What an awesome blessing it was, leaving
one elated yet humble.

If you secretly think that sailing is an escape from reality, then you are
wrong. It depends ofcourse what you consider reality to be. In the most
universal sense of the word, we are not escaping reality at all, but
moving closer to it all the time. You think that what you see daily on tv
is reality and you are right. There is a much bigger reality though,
beyond life and death, and this is the reality we experience out here. An
eternal, infinite reality. Hope to share some glimpses of it.

First crossing on a Leopard 44

We left Cape Town just over a week ago. What a pleasure to be on a Leopard
44. I have crossed oceans in the Leopard 38,39,40,43,46,48 and the
Leopard 58, and for some reason never did a 44. What a well balanced boat
she is, a unique character as all the Leopards are. I sailed one from Cape
Town to Durban in 2009. Really well appointed catamaran, excellent usage
of space and spacious living areas. We are having lots of fun taking her
through all types of conditions, or rather she taking us through it all,
safely and securely, building huge confidence in her abilities. And like
the other Leopards she is really easy to sail. One person can set the
sails without a spilling a drop of sweat, due to electric winches and well
placed winches, sheets and lines. There is a reason why the Leopards are
one of the top selling catamarans in the world, or rather, there are many.

Into slight headwinds and 3m swells we started, taking it gently and
getting our sealegs tested early on in the journey. The wind started
backing as predicted and soon the northwesterlies turned into westerlies
before she faded three days out. We got completely becalmed, the sea
turning into a huge shining mirror with not even a ripple on the surface.
The sun was out and we were out in our shorts and t-shirts, enjoying the
great weather. That night we ran into thick fog, with visibilty down to 10
meters max.

Eerie, scary situation, in a busy shipping lane and fishing boats
around. All we could do was give our position on the VHF every 15
minutes,, the direction which we were moving in and the speed we
maintained. A few ships altered course for us. First Mate Malcolm
contrived a radar reflector from heavy duty aluminium foil which he
mounted on the helming station. It was a deadly situation. No ways we
would have time to take avertive action should we see a ship coming
straight at us. Strange that such danger can lurk in such extreme calm and
serene conditions. We had our epirb ready in case we were taken out. We
reckoned that if we wear life jackets it will just take longer to die in
this cold grey water, it will just prolong our suffering, and hence we did
not wear them.

I have weathered some seriously scary storms out here, but none compares
to this sitting duck scenario. In a storm it is one on one, you are given
a change to fight for your life. Sailors of old did not learn to swim for
this very reason. In a stormy sea nobody can fight and win should you fall
overboard, and swimming will just prolong the inevitable. Nowadays though
there are personal epirbs, self inflating life jackets you can wear all
the time, and if the water is not too cold and you have a sharp crew on
board, the changes of finding a person that fell overboard, day or night,
is much better than years ago. Death we do not fear, but freezing to death
is not our idea of dying pleasantly out here. The fog moved in at about
8pm and only lifted at 10am the next morning. We did not speak much during
this period, as our thoughts were far away.

But we lived to tell the tale, and no sailing school or establishment or
book for that matter will tell you to use your VHF in such conditions. Or
how to stay calm, and how to keep your crew calm. Under any and all
conditions. Out here we deal with real situations, not theoretical
situations. I stand to be corrected on this, and will be pleasantly
surprised if I am proven wrong. No amount of theory can substitute
experience. There is always room for improvement though.

As the fog lifted the wind softly started building from the south. We
could now let out our headsail to assist the motor. The next day we
turned the motor off and at last we were doing what we love doing most,
sailing. we have now been sailing on the trot for four days, and our
weather prospects looks good for another few days. We expect to arrive at
St.Helena on Saturday the 10th of August. We will spend a day or two there
and then the long run to the Caribbean.

We are having regular visits from various species of dolphins which is
always a great blessing. Came up for watch one morning and on my steps a
seabird was sitting. my crew informed me that he flew in but they do not
want to disturb him, suspecting he may be injured. Creatures out here are
not scared of humans. I folded my hands around the bird's body and softly
placed him on the table outside. He spread his wings and the breeze from
behind lifted him, and off he went. Made a few circles around the boat and
dissapeared into the blue horizon. What an awesome blessing it was, leaving
one elated yet humble.

If you secretly think that sailing is an escape from reality, then you are
wrong. It depends ofcourse what you consider reality to be. In the most
universal sense of the word, we are not escaping reality at all, but
moving closer to it all the time. You think that what you see daily on tv
is reality and you are right. There is a much bigger reality though,
beyond life and death, and this is the reality we experience out here. An
eternal, infinite reality. Hope to share some glimpses of it.

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Fernando do Noronha and onwards

Yesterday at about midday we could start making out the outline of the
archipelago called Fernando do Noronha. We decided to run in close to have
a good look and feast our eyes on land again. Haven't seen any for about
two weeks and what a stunningly beautiful group of islands this is. Green
and lush with high peaks here and there, we were greeted by a small pod of
dolphins, albeit only for a very short time. Which reminds me that I want
to copy and paste some interesting collective nouns for fish at the end of
this blog. Haven't seen any dolphins on the trip so far and what an
immense pleasure to watch their antics around the boat. On one of my
previous trips I stopped here for a day or so,and had a most fabulous
time. We were invited to some traditional dancing and was completely swept
away by the rhythm and movement as we joined the circle of dancers. Was a
big problem to get on and off the island as there is no ferry service and
we had to rely on local fisherman to give us a ride in and out. And pretty
expensive as well to clear in and out, but in the end it was worth it.

I have carefully plotted our next few waypoints to find the best possible
currents running up the north eastern Brazilian coast, and already it is
paying dividends. At the moment just about 8kts of wind from behind, twin
headsails up front and one motor running and we are doing between 7 and 8
kts. The boat is very still, hardly any swell or movement, nearly surreal.
And we expect it to get even better, much better. Our weather forecast
shows us some wind coming in from the east to northeast which will place
us on a beam reach, and we will be able to use our main and headsail
again. And with the ever-increasing current, we may just take off and
start flying. Or think we are flying at least. We have a fairly tough
schedule to keep to and keep to it we will. I nearly said come hell or
high water but that will be a bit presumptuous.

An interesting observation I read recently is that we call our planet
earth, although it really is mostly water. I know the pacific Ocean alone
covers more than 70% of our planet, and from outer space we are clearly
the blue planet. It is disconcerting how we mostly see things only from
our own limited point of view. If we travel really far back in time, we
will also discover that the earth once rotated in the opposite direction.
We got struck by a huge meteorite which threw us completely out of orbit
and caused unimaginable havoc. Where there was once sea, there is now
mountain peaks, and we find remnants and fossils of sea creatures on some
of the highest peaks. Such a planet, this. To use a phrase from mail I
recently received from a yacht called True Blue. Satellite pictures also
reveal ancient and huge river systems where there is now desert. And
evidence of pre-ancient civilizations, far older than we ever imagined.
Not too long ago we thought we were the centre of the universe and that
the earth was flat. It was preposterous to consider that the earth was
round and the first observers of this fact was burned at the stake for
being heretics. It was far easier to see heaven above and hell below for
the religious fraternity and this little observation alone turned their
theories upside down, inside out, and really a fallacy. If you follow art
from the very beginning you will find how we evolved in our knowledge of
who and what we are, although I don't think we even have a clue of what we
really are as human beings. Over the estimated 160 billion years planet
earth has been in orbit, we have only been here for a very, very short
time, and we have made a royal mess of it so far.

But inherent in every one of us is the real truth, if only we can reach
that deep. The brave seafarers of old that ventured into uncharted
territory conjured up images of grandiose monsters from above and below,
and brave they were indeed. My daughter really made me smile once, as she
does so many times. She came to the conclusion that we all relate back to
Noah as him and his family and his zoo and his garden were the only living
things left after the flood. Except for the creatures that lived in the
water of course. And from Noah and his ark all living things on land must
then have evolved. And we are therefore all mariners at the core. Can you
for a little while place yourself in Noah's position ? Adrift on this
rapidly receding body of water, looking for a piece of dry land to safely
land his ark. In a very real sense we have evolved from mammals. Have you
ever seen a sperm cell swimming around looking for an egg cell to swim
into. And then the trouble starts, or rather the miracle. But that is how
we all started, as a little swimming tadpole kind of thing. And then we
grew into a foetus, surrounded by water and survived there for roughly
nine months before we were pushed or pulled into the world as we know it.
And the first thing we do when we are born with our very first breath is
let out a heart rendering cry. So our affinity with water runs really
deep. It is in a most and very real way where we all come from.

Now for an interesting little copy and paste. My 1st Mate Malcolms
daughter Carla did some research and found all these amuzing collective
nouns for fish. I hope it makes you smile a little and gives wings to your
visual capacity.

Collective Nouns : One of the many oddities of the English language is the
multitude of different names given to collections or groups, be they
beasts, birds, people or things. Many of these collective nouns are
beautiful and evocative, even poetic :

A company of angel fish
A company of archer fish
A battery of barracudas
A shoal of barbels
A fleet of bass (or shoal)
A grind of blackfish
A school of butterfly fish
A school of cod
A swarm of dragonet fish
A troop of dogfish
A swarm of eels
A shoal of fish (or catch or draught or fray or haul or run or school)
A glide of flying fish (:))
A glint of goldfish (or troubling)
A glean of herrings (or army or shoal)
A shoal of mackerels
A shoal of minnows (or steam or stream or swarm)
A pack of perch
A shoal of pilchards (or school)
A cluster of porcupine fish
A party of rainbow fish
A shoal of roach
A bind of salmons (or draught or leap or run or school or shoal)
A family of sardines
A herd of seahorses
A shoal of shad
A shiver of sharks (or school or shoal)
A troupe of shrimps
A quanity of smelts
A shoal of sticklebacks (or spread)
A flotilla of swordfish
A hover of trouts (or shoal)
A float of tunas (troup)
A pod of whitings

And with that I wish you a wonderful day and week ahead. After Tuesday
even the days of the weeks reads W.T.F. Very fishy, very.

Paul

Friday, March 8, 2013

Halfway there

We are only about two days away from Fernando de Noronha, a small but
exquisite little island off the coast of Brazil. A hundred miles or so
later we have Athol dos Rocas, another amazing little jewel on the ocean.
Google these two names and eat your heart out. And then the fast run up
the coast of Brazil, and fast we have to go. A charter date has been set
for our boat and we have to maintain 7kts to make it in time. Fortunately
we have enough diesel to assist the sails a bit when the wind is just not
strong enough to keep us in contention. Two days ago we caught up with a
yacht that left St.Helena 36 hours before we left. So seldom that one sees
another yacht on the open ocean, and to know the yachties, even more rare.
French couple, and the damn Frenchman laughed at me when I said bonsoir
and bon voyage. He thought I could only speak English. Another yacht we
met in St.Helena had to detour to Ascension Island due to technical
difficulties, yacht True Blue. They are circumnavigating and started in
Hawaii.

Motorsailing is the term we use when we are motoring and sailing. Up the
coast of Brazil we have a strong current and good winds that will also
come into play, and we aim not to only meet but to exceed expectations on
our estimate time of arrival in Tortola, in short our ETA. Our POA ( plan
of action ) was to sail more leisurely and save engine hours, but since
there has been a slight COP ( change of plan ) we are doing all in our
power to keep going AFAP( as fast as possible ) Enough of these
abbreviations, ok, one last one, TGIF !!! And if you don't know what that
means, Thank God It's Friday. We work 24/7 so if you work 9 - 5, this
one's just for you.

I woke up this morning to take the 3am - 6am watch and the awesome smell
of freshly baked rusks drifted in from the saloon. Malcolm has been at it
again, baking another batch of rusks from his secret recipe. Outside the
big blue is black, with no moon yet, and all around us the skies are also
black, sprinkled with gazilions of little blue dots, morse-coding secret
messages to those in the know. ET come home. Back to the saloon, it is
what we call the living room inside the boat. Inside the saloon you also
find the galley, which is the boat term for kitchen, and then the nav
station, which is where I am sitting at the moment. My very good friend
Llewellyn, who popped in for a visit in Cape Town, will attest to the fact
that our saloon is big enough to swing the proverbial two cats
comfortably. Not that I would ever swing any cat, I love these little
feline creatures far too much for that. But do google Leopard 48
Catamaran, and you will check the lay-out of our little humble abode.
Comfortable to the max.

My turn to prepare supper tonight and I have been discreetly requested to
make some rotis. Mix some flour, water and a bit of salt, make little
balls and roll them into very thin pan size discs. Fry them a minute or
two on both sides and voila ! For filling I will also prepare some minced
meat, beans etc, and a bit of coleslaw to add crunchiness. It's quite a
bit of work and once we sit down to eat it is gone in ten minutes. One of
the reasons I love rotis is that you eat it with your hands, no cutlery.
There is just something about eating with your hands. It is a closer
culinary experience than eating with a knife and fork, you really get into
it. More primal, earthy. Like her daddy, my darling daughter also loves
eating with her hands. Sigh.......I miss her badly.

Today we will reach the halfway mark, 3000nm behind us and 3000nm ahead of
us. The second half will go much faster than the first half, and before we
know it, we will be sitting on an aeroplane flying back over the easter
weekend. Mind boggling to think that we will cover a distance we covered
in approximately 6 weeks in two days. Not my favourite mode of transport
by a long shot, jet-setting, but what can one do. Make the most of it I
guess.

I unfortunately have no access to internet on the boat and therefore
cannot read and reply to your comments, just in case you were wondering,
but I sincerely do appreciate your comments and eagerly read them when I
get the chance. Hope you have a most wonderful weekend.

Until next time

Paul

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

From the heart

It's now been twenty days since we left Cape Town and five days since we
left St.Helena. We have sailed about 2500 nautical miles,which equates to
roughly 4600 kms. The ocean have warmed from 14*C in Cape Town to 27*C
where we are now at 10*47'S and 016*41'W. And strange that we haven't seen
any dolphins so far besides a few when we got to St.Helena. Our lures have
been trolling behind us for most of the time and just about no fish, the
one dorado we did hook got away, lucky fish. One whale when we left Cape
Town, other than that just a lot of flying fish scattering around. Have
we really depleted the ocean of fish and now dolphins as well ??? And the
whales ??? WHAT DO WE LEAVE BEHIND FOR OUR KIDS ??? And the generations
that will follow our generation. Out here one becomes acutely aware of the
atrocities we commit as so-called custodians of our planet. Our insatiable
thirst for violence and destruction and consumption. Our ignorance of how
we are being indoctrinated, blinded, misled. How we are being manipulated
to make war against each other. All in the name of progress !!! I ask
again, where are the dolphins, the whales, the fish. I am crying, and I am
deeply ashamed to be part of the human species when I look around me and
see what we have done and what we are doing to ourselves, our fellow
human beings, and all the creatures we share our planet with. Our
rainforests, our rivers, our atmosphere and so we can carry on and on.

The greatest atrocity of all is that we have lost contact with who and
what we really are. Spirit. Spirit is that which we have conveniently left
to worry about when we die. We are too busy trying to make a living to
worry about that now. Leave that for later, for now we first have to
secure our material needs, satisfy our greed and accumulate so called
wealth. Sure, we can set aside an hour or so once a week and fool
ourselves believing that we may be ok when we die. Our lives are neatly
packaged and divided into quick and convenient solutions. But do we ever
for a moment take a moment and count the cost.

There is no need for hate, and yet we hate ourselves, and that flows over
into our actions. There is no need for greed and yet we just can't enough.
There is no need for war, and yet we make war against each other. There is
a dire need to get in touch with our spirit again. It is a faint little
flickering flame that we have have pushed to the deepest recesses of our
instant lives. The sun has just peeped over the horizon in the background,
golden bright ball of fire. I am going to look for my little flickering
flame of spirit. I have to. I have no choice. I know the truth. And I want
to bring it back to where it belongs. I want to carry it in front of me.
And I hope you will do the same. And hopefully together we can start a
brand new day. That is the only true hope we have. To be one in the spirit.

Saturday, March 2, 2013

St.Helena - The most extraordinary place on earth

These are the exact words on their tourism brochure and a most
extraordinary place it is indeed. Two days before we arrived at Jamestown,
the anchorage at St.Helena, we discovered that our fridge was no longer
working. 30 days worth of meat supplies could go to waste if we don't find
a solution to our problem and quick. We moved all our still frozen meat
from the fridge and stored them in an airtight container in the coolest
place on the yacht. The red meat and boerewors we may still salvage but
the chicken we had to use asap. I prepared Thai green curry chicken with
coconut milk served on a bed of rice. The prospect of perhaps loosing all
our meat placed a bit of a damper on our mood. We had some corned beef but
no soya beans which we sometimes bring with as a supplement for beef.
Fortunately we had plenty tins of chick peas which would provide some
protein. Fishing was also a possibility but the sea is not full of fish as
you may have been told.

We arrived at St.Helena in the early hours of Monday morning and tied up
to the brand new bank of buoys installed recently. To anchor at St.Helena
was always a problem. Being a volcanic island the seabed was mostly rocky
and does not provide good holding grounds for an anchor. A lot of yachts
start dragging their anchors but this problem was now solved. Customs and
immigration boarded our vessel at about 9am and by 10am we were granted
clearance. The ferry boat took us ashore with our precious cargo of red
meat now wrapped in black bags. Peter, a friend of ours was waiting at the
wharf with a moped and carted our load of meat and our gas bottle to the
Consulate Hotel and placed our meat in their freezer room. There was now
hope again. My first mate Malcolm has been at the helm of Shamus Rennie,
and aircon and fridge company in SA for about 40+ years and if anyone
could fix it, it would be him. He had just spend two months on the island
prior to our departure from Cape Town, staying in the consulate hotel and
fixing freezers, fridges and aircons on the island. A leak detector found
the problem on our fridge on the boat and our hopes were once again
getting stronger. Getting on and off the island turned out to be a
nightmare of note as the full moon late February also coincided with the
equinox in March, causing huge swells to slam onto the jetty where we
disembark from the ferry. At times it was so dangerous that we had to wear
lifejackets just in case we got overturned. Carrying equipment on and off
the island, filling our waterdrums etc became a dangerous exercise. Our
full 30 ltr waterdrums were washed off the platform as another huge swell
pounded into the jetty. The drums were fortunately floating and could be
retrieved, and the only way to get our drums onto the ferry boat was to
fill them up, tie them all together, board the ferry quickly and dragged
the drums off the platform into the water. Once we were in a safer area we
would then lift the drums onto the ferry boat.

There were at anytime about ten yachts on tied to the buoys and we had to
sometimes wait till 11am befroe the ferryman deemed conditions "safe"
enough to run his errands. most of these yachties were people in their
seventies and we assisted them in getting on and off the ferry. The
ferryman would read the swells, run in quick, drop a few people and then
run for safety again. My stomach was in a continious knot getting on and
off. Malcom sourced all the right equipment to fix our fridge and thanks
goodness got the fridge up and running again on Wednesday and we could
transfer our meat back into our fridge. Quite a process to get all the
vacuum pumps, generators, leak detectors etc but it was mission succesful.

Monday afternoon at six when the ferry services close the conditions were
extreme and instead we had a braai at Ann's Place with about fifteen other
yachties, sharing our experiences, good food and so on. My friends at
Ann's Place, Richard and Jane always treats us like royalty when we visit
their island, and for a while we could unwind a bit. 9pm the ferryman
informed us that conditions eased a bit and we all moved to the jetty. We
all had to wear lifejackets and two loads of about 9 people were ferried
back to our yachts safely in fairly hairy conditions.

Back to St.Helena, the place oozes with history. Google it a bit and you
may find that some of your forefathers perished here as prisoners of war.
Napoleon also died here a long time ago. And the only way the island can
be reached is by boat. For now. After sixty years of debating they are now
busy building an airport to make it more accessible to the world. The cost
is close to 300 million British Pound and they hope to be up and running
by 2016 if I am not mistaken. The airport will change the character of the
island for ever, in some respects good and in some bad. Already the influx
of construction workers, big machinery etc is having a huge impact on the
island.The local population ranges between three to four thousand people.

At the Consulate Hotel I once again read Desiderata and will finish this
little post with the words. We departed on Thursday morning and are now
sailing towards Brazil. So all fun and games as you can gather, and
sometimes not, but we do the best we can and enjoy it thoroughly.

Desiderata

Go placidly amid the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be
in silence.
As far as possible, without surrender, be on good terms with all persons.
Speak your truth quietly and clearly; and listen to others, even to the
dull and the ignorant, they too have their story. Avoid loud and
aggressive persons, they are vexations to the spirit.
If you compare yourself with others, you may become vain and bitter; for
always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself. Enjoy your
achievements as well as your plans. Keep interested in your own career,
however humble; it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time.
Exercise caution in your business affairs, for the world is full of
trickery. But let this not blind you to what virtue there is; many persons
strive for high ideals, and everywhere life is full of heroism. Be
yourself. Especially, do not feign affection. Neither be cynical about
love, for in the face of all aridity and disenchantment it is perennial as
the grass.
Take kindly to the counsel of the years, gracefully surrendering the
things of youth. Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden
misfortune. But do not distress yourself with imaginings. Many fears are
born of fatigue and loneliness.
Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself. You are a child of
the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be
here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is
unfolding as it should.
Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be, and
whatever your labors and aspirations, in the noisy confusion of life, keep
peace in your soul.
With all its sham, drudgery and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful
world.
Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Closing in on St.Helena

What is it about sailing that draws one time after time to find one self
out here on the big blue once again. Is it the solitude, the vast expanses
of ocean around you, the close connection with all the heavenly bodies,
or is it a touch of madness, a dash of adventurous spirit, or is it simply
just in your blood ? I think it is different for everyone, a few reasons
would be the same, but at the core there are as many reasons as there are
individuals who cross the oceans. And good that we are all different, and
can share our experiences with each other and enrich each other. If we
were all born to be teachers there would be nobody to teach, if we were
all doctors there would be no patients, if we were all lawyers we would
all be suing each other.
Not everybody is doing what they want to do, for a lot of people their
occupation is simply a means to an end. A way of earning an income and
support a certain standard of living. Many have not much choice in the
matter, trapped in a situation from which they cannot easily escape. And
we dream that one day we will be able to follow our dreams, but time is
limited, very limited, and before you know, death is knocking at your
door. Dare to dream is easy enough to write, but it leads to utter
frustration if our dreams cannot be attained. Dream big we are told by
some, or rather don't dream at all, then you won't be disappointed . And
here and there through the cracks of our everyday existence our spirit
cries for wings, but we rather fill the cracks with all types of
meaningless activities and pretend our spirit does not exist. We suffer
hugely, and such is life, the spirit will not be denied. You are born
alone and you will die alone, and you alone is responsible for what you do
with your experience we call life.
Through the general media we are fed all types of crap for want of a
better word. Our focus is directed to the more material things in life, to
the financial benefit of a few, and the spiritual demise of the masses.
And so we are enslaved, led to believe that if you buy this car you will
be happy, if you where that perfume you will be irresistible, if you eat
KFC your hunger will be stilled. But for how long before the artificial
feeling good feeling wears off. And we are once again searching for the
next thrill to shield us from really feeling good. I enjoy kfc now and
then, or even Mc Donald's fills the gap and quick, and a every car to me
is an expression of freedom, and expensive perfume does smell divine.
There is a place for all these things . The yacht I am sailing is R 6 500
000, so I am no stranger to the "good" life. But does it make me better
than you ? I am afraid not. Most people think if they have big cars, big
houses and big overdraft facilities they are better than the local beggar.
But when they go and sleep at night the spirit seeps through the cracks
again and in the morning when you look into the mirror, who are you really
? But before it bothers me to much, I am back in the rat race, wasting my
time hoping that one day I will escape from this self-imposed prison I
find myself in.
And one good morning you wake up and realize that it is all just a vast
emptiness, and the hollow feeling inside can no longer be pacified. What
the on earth do you do ? Just get up and carry on ? Or do you start to
realize that there is more to life than what you have been having so far.
We cannot escape pain and hurt and disappointment but we can see the
purpose of these things in our lives. We can rise above our circumstances
and let our spirit free. And we are then free to become what we were
created to be. The more I know the more I know how little I know. I have
far more questions than answers. And perhaps that is why I sail, to get
away from the all mental pollution. I see the sun rise every morning and
set every night, I watch the moon wax and wane, I notice the stars and the
clouds, the storms and the rainbows. Who writes the script for all these
things that have been there long before I was born and will be there long
after I have moved on. All I really know is that things change all the
time, and other things stay the same. I trust I have the courage to change
where I need to, and learn more about the things that never change.
Oh yes, nearly forgot that I am doing a sailing blog, the above really
just writing for myself. Hahahahaha !!!!. Ok serious, if I measure the
earth at the equator and calculate my nautical miles sailed, I have sailed
more than seven times around the world. I love the Leopard 48, she is the
loveliest boat I have sailed so far. We expect to arrive at St.Helena
Island tomorrow night . We have had fantastic weather thus far, motoring
just now and then to charge our batteries. Our current position at 11am
SA time is 17*42'S and 002*01'W. Yes, we crossed over ton the western
hemisphere yesterday at about noon. Have yourself a wonderful weekend and
make the most of life. Love is all you need.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

On wings and things on Leka Lewa

After our initial smooth and fast, then slowly motoring with no wind on
a beam sea, to having twin headsails up and surfing down the swells
rolling in from behind and making good miles till the wind started
fading a bit. From a rushing 8+kts down to 4 kts but we kept on sailing,
conserving our fuel for the way ahead. This morning the wind backed a
little more and it was time to drop one of the headsails and raise the
main. Full main to start with and with the flat seas and full headsail
we were once again sailing fast. The wind slowly climbed and settled at
16kts, well within the safety parameters of our sail configuration.
Holding a steady 8+ kts we found the natural speed of the boat. Three or
so hours later we decided to reef both main and headsail to 1st reef.
And fantastic results, going even faster with less stress on the rigging
and the boat. Our position currently 17h30 on 18/02 is 24*31'S and
008*59'E. We have covered 750nm in the last 5 days averaging 6.25kts and
happy with our progress so far.

Yesterday morning being Sunday we had the usual Sunday bacon and egg
breakfast. We also for some reason have a lot to do on Sundays. Had to
set up the twin headsails, wash the deck down a bit, fill the watertanks
from our drums and so the list went on. We rest six days a week and on
the seventh day we work. Not deliberately or by design, that is just the
way it always seems to work out. For lunch we had a mixed fresh salad
with feta sprinkled on top. Malcolm also baked his best yet bread. I
will try to post a pic of this masterpiece at St. Helena. The internet
there does not always allow us such luxuries but we will try. For supper
we had Toad in the Hole, a traditional dish consisting of pork bangers and
a special pastry, covered with some tomato and onion gravy. Always
delectable and an old English dish if I am not mistaken. Also prepared
by Malcolm, seems he is a workaholic. This morning we had our birchem
muesli fruit fantasy breakfast again. Another batch of rusks also saw
the light, the first batch only lasting four days. The new batch was
sampled at teatime but with coffee. For lunch Jacob whipped together
some flapjacks and they did not last long either. He enjoys it with a
soft fried egg on top with syrup, Malcolm also tried one like that but
for me just butter and maple syrup thanks. For tonight we are doing
meatballs with gravy, mash and peas. Care to join us for supper ?

In my previous blog I set out to share some insights into the life of
long distance sailors. The first thing that gets to you when you leave
Cape Town is how beautiful Table Mountain is. From all angles, in all
weather, all the time. Within you there is great sadness for family and
friends you are leaving behind. There is also the anticipation for what
is ahead of you. As the mountain grows smaller in the distance behind
you all these and many more emotions flood your being. There is a last
rush to say goodbye while you have cellphone reception, and once that
dissapears you know you are on your way. Your body now has to first grow
sealegs and grow accustomed to the continious motion. For some it is
just a little unsettledness, for others it is a longer and more
difficult process, and then there are those that just don't get over it.
No matter how much they love the ocean, for some reason they just can't
handle the motion. There are a lot of advice and medication in this
regard, but in the end it mostly just takes a little time. After the
second day things are beginning to feel normal and comfortable once
again.

Sleeping on a rocking bed is also a factor to take into consideration.
The boat moves this way and that way, you are exhausted and need some
sleep. Eventually you relax and fall asleep, your muscles constantly
counteracting the motion of the boat. You use muscles you normally never
even knew existed. You wake up physically tired, as if you had a long
work-out in the gym, not that I would know what that feels like. It also
takes a day or two for your muscles to get used to the new demands
placed on them. The fresh air always is good for a healthy appetite, and
we don't skimp on that part either. Once your body is into the swing of
things you can really start enjoying the experience in other ways that I
will elaborate on in future postings. It is imperative to maintain some
form of deliberate physical exercise on a bit. We don't get much
exercise whether walking or swimming or going to gym. We sit around for
months at end, pulling up sail here, lifting a water drum there, not much
by account. But not many of us actually do physical exercise and you pay
the price when you have to things that would be easier if you were fit.

Another factor is the time zones we sail through and the irregular
sleeping patterns we have to get used to. Our watches determine that we
go to sleep and wake up every day at different times. It is amazing what
one can achieve once you are out of your comfort zones and your regular
routines. So if you still think you like sailing good for you, the best
is yet to come. The body adapts, and once you are through the initial
discomfort, you are well on your way.

Hope you too are having an awesome time and making the most of your days
which are numbered. Till we meet again, go you exceedingly well.

Paul

Saturday, February 16, 2013

Cape Town to Tortola on a Leopard 48 Catamaran named for the trip - Lekka Lewa

Once again it is an immense blessing to be out at sea. And to be out here
on a brand new Leopard 48 Catamaran makes it even more special. This cat
won Cruising World Magazine's Boat of the Year award for 2013 in the Best
Full Size Multihull category. It is the fifth time this honor has been
awarded to the Leopard Catamarans, produced by Robertson and Caine in Cape
Town. In the Feb issue of SA Sailing magazine there is a review on the
Leopard 48, amazing boat to say the least. Check it on the net, there is
too much to say about this yacht that pictures can tell in a glance.

Our first day out we raised full main and headsails and with a gentle 10
to 12 knots of breeze we were clipping nicely at 7.5 kts on a beam reach.
The weather looked good for as far as the weather prophets predicted. A
front was coming in just below Cape Town and we expected a bit of
westerlies before the wind would back to SW and S to SE. The mighty
Benguela current runs up the west coast of Africa from the cold south and
brings rich nutritious water to the surface, hence the rich sealife in the
area. Just before sunset the wind died down and we started motoring. The
swell was coming from the west as a result of the front that passed and we
experienced some beam seas, the swell coming from the side of the boat.
Not very comfortable on any vessel but we knew this would only last a day
or so before the current, swell and wind all moves in harmony in the same
direction. Fair winds and following seas is what we sometimes wish our
fellow mariners. It describes such conditions. On a catamaran it is pure
bliss, surfing down the swells and wind blowing from behind. Correct
nautical term for the back of the boat or from behind is stern or from
astern.As our weatherfiles predicted we had up to 33kts of wind coming
through on our second day out. Our average speed would be 6.5 kts and when
surfing down the swells the speed builts up quickly, our fastest surf
recorded so far 17.7 kts.And all we had out was a little bit of headsail,
set to make the most of the conditions and placing the least possible
stress on our yacht.Enough of the technical stuff.

First night out we had pre-cooked chicken and bread and the chicken and
mayonaise sandwiches went down well. Still finding our sealegs we are not
always keen on cooking up a storm on the first day out. The night before I
prepared some boerewors with potato spuds and a tin of sweetcorn. last
night it was pasta shells and mince. For breakfast we have bircher muesli,
a speciality of Malcolm who is 1st Mate on this trip. It basically
consists of rolled oats soaked the night before in a bit of water and
lemon juice. Almond nuts are also soaked the night before which swells
them up and softens them. Apple is then grated into the rolled oats the
next morning and on top of this an array of fresh fruit. The soaked
almonds are then crushed and sprinkled on top. A bit of cinnamon and honey
adds the final touch. A lot of work and time consuming but healthy and
delicious. For midnight snacks Malcolm also baked his first batch of
rusks. The recipe is a family secret and oh so nice. Both my crew enjoy
good coffee. Real coffee with a plunger, all different types. My other
crew member is Jacob Gross, born in the USA. Served five years in the US
navy and travelled far and wide after his service in the navy. We all get
on extremely well, have respect for each other and allow for differences
of opinion on any and all matters.

We have some way to go, from start to finish 6000nm and taking about five
to six weeks. First stop St. Helena and then head for the Caribbean. I
hope to share with you an insight into the life of a long distance sailor.
Life on the big blue.What goes on inside our bodies, our heads, our hearts,
our mind, our soul and our spirit.

Our current position is 28*24' S and 012*16' E. We are 200nm from the
nearest land and due east of us is Oranjemund. We hope to make landfall at
St. Helena Island on the 22nd of February.

Will post again soon and until then take good care.

Paul