Monday, June 9, 2014

Up the Mozambique Channel

We were sailing at speed towards Madagascar with the northerly winds giving
us a good angle to sail east. Having covered two thirds of the channel and
less than a day from the coast of Madagascar, we were dearly hoping for the
southerly wind predicted to come through. Turning sharp into the wind we
slowed down our passage east and waited patiently for our fortunes to turn.
Close to Madagascar the currents would be against us so we had to stay a
fair distance away. On Friday we watched a bank of clouds forming in the
south and drawing closer and closer. It was a bank of cumulus clouds, not
ominous, but still impressive. Scary fronts are preceded by cirrus clouds,
thin wispy clouds curved at the end similar to a horses tail. The wind kept
on backing throughout the day, slowly but surely. Backing means when the
wind direction changes in an anti-clockwise direction. And then the
southerlies were hear, coming through at 20 to 30 kts. For the first time
in a few days we could turn our bows north and with the wind pushing us
from behind, we experienced some smooth and fast sailing. The swell also
curved in from behind, and we started surfing getting up to 16 knots.
Heavily loaded Hamba na Moya Huibre sat solidly and beautifully, curving
long white tracks behind us, carrying her precious load with ease. Up front
we had half of our headsail furled out, finding the ideal speed to not run
away and out of control, or going too slow and getting caught from behind.
Poetry in motion with the ocean. Swells of over 5 metres would tower up
behind us, leaving a hollow feeling in the stomach, and miraculously Hamba
na Moya Huibre would lift her stern up to the crest, find her groove, and
slide deliriously down, pause in the trough, get lifted up and here we go
again. Following winds and seas type of sailing :) Flying fish taking off to
get out of the way, whales coming closer to have a look at this crazy surfing
cat. This morning a 4mtr long pilot whale came gliding past, also surfing
down the swells. Seemingly effortlessly and fast. Yesterday was our second day
styling in this manner.

Our newest weather reports turned out to be quite accurate and we could
anticipate the changes and act accordingly. The wind backed behind us from
south west to south and settling on south east over a period of 36 hours. We
first held cause up north, then got pushed northwest when the wind was
blowing strongest and gusting at around 30kts from the south west. Africa was
once again closing in but in good time the wind backed to south which gave us
back north, and at about 2pm today the wind from the south east started
easing and we could go on a broadreach with main and genoa on 2nd reef. On a
broadreach the wind come from about a 120 degree angle. Beam reach is when
the wind comes from a 90 degree angle. The wind has died down to just a breeze
and we are motoring making good miles carried by a good current.

In the galley things are heating up and the cook and chef is cooking with gas
:) On Friday night Edrick prepared a Cottage Pie, and for entrée's we had
freshly caught wahoo that Aubrey applied some alchemy to. You get cooks and
chefs, and then you get alchemists, mmmmmmmmmm.......we have one on board. Our
alchemist prepared some lamb curry, and unequivocally superior quisine. Last
night we had lamb chops and roast potato for supper. Super lamb chops to be
sure. This morning we had omelette and bacon for breakfast, celebrating
Father's Day :):):). Three of us on board are daddy's and there was some
dispute about the exact date. We decided to celebrate it yesterday !!! If not,
why not. We did later learn that Father's Day is next Sunday. And we will
celebrate it again :) And the top cuisine keeps on exceeding our expectations.

This morning John landed a fair size skipjack. Aubrey filleted the fish and
tonight we will have some starter dish ala Aubrey the alchemist. We are a day
and a half from Mayotte where we will run in for a day or so. This morning we
decanted our extra diesel and up to date we have used 300 ltrs and covered about
1200 nautical miles with about 1100 to go. So yes, we are over the halfway mark.
Time is flying with the days and nights just flowing into each other. All of us
are doing exceedingly well. We have now been at sea for over 8 days and enjoying
the calm stretch we are having after some rough stuff we've been through.

From the deep blue sea and blue skies all around, take good care.

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Maputo into the Mozambique Channel

The northerly winds came through as expected. We were about 36nm from the
Mozambique coast that runs from Maputo upwards and then east towards Punta
da Barra before the coast turns up north again. The angle of the wind
allowed us to sail east across the Mozambique current that runs from north
to south. Not the smoothest sailing but making good ground towards the
middle of the channel. Some stretches are pure bliss, some stretches are
not.

On Tuesday night Edrick gave Aubrey a bit of a break in the galley and
offered to prepare supper. Wednesday morning Edrick also made a big egg
pizza which was also enjoyed by one and all. Basically an open omelette or
Spanish omelette. The day before John landed a small dorado which Aubrey
filleted in a flash, and the fillets were placed on ice in a ziplock bag.
These fillets Aubrey prepared for lunch yesterday, and John commented that
it was the best dorado dish he has ever tasted. And he has been fishing all
his life and has prepared many fish himself. For supper last night we had
baked lamb chops and mash with gravy. Really living and eating well,
besides the fairly rough conditions thus far. We had some cereal and then
fresh fruit salad for breakfast, and for lunch we had sumptuous burgers
with grated salad, once again delicious.

The northerly winds is having a last blow at us before she will make way
for the southerly winds which we expect tomorrow morning. Fortunately we
are quite deep into the channel already and will miss the brunt of the
southerly front pushing up. We are looking forward to have some good wind
from behind and some open ocean ahead of us. The good winds will stay with
us till Sunday when it starts easing to a breeze. Earlier today we landed a
small wahoo which was also filleted in a flash. Wahoo are normally around
when the weather is a bit rough and the reef fish comes to the surface. The
predators like the wahoo then follow their prey. The lure we caught the
wahoo on is a white with a red head Rapala. All of us on board are
exceedingly well, and having a fabulous time. The rough and the smooth.

Hope you enjoy a little glimpse into our lives here on the ocean every now
and then. Take care till next time.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Hamba na Moya Huibre - Durban to Seychelles

We find ourselves on one beautiful boat, Hamba na Moya Huibre, a legendary
Leopard 46. After two weeks of running around to get everything ready for
our crossing, we were at last ready to leave. We were looking at departing
on 31 May, but our departure date was dependant on the weather. And the
weather turned good for us a day later. My family and Gerry's wife came o
wave us goodbye and at 9am on Sunday 1 June, we started the motors and by
then we were just outside the breakwaters of Durban harbour. On board we
have Gerry, the owner, John, his long time friend, Aubrey, a great chef and
sailor from the Seychelles, Edrick our 1st Mate, and myself as skipper. A
few years ago Gerry, John, two other crew members and me sailed the boat
from Cape Town to Durban where she stayed for a while. On a few occasions I
had the wonderful opportunity to take my family and/or friends for a little
day sail in Durban to keep the bat in good shape. Never a good idea for a
boat to just sit in the water and not ever go out. All types of technical
complications starts happening. The same with your motor vehicle. If you
let it stand in the garage for a few years without running it now and then,
your batteries will be flat, the seals on your engine will be dry, your
tyres may have deflated and so on. Same with a boat,except the tyres of
course :-) The first time I took my brother for a sail he asked, tongue in
cheek, where the brakes are.

The first few hours out the water was flat with only a slight breeze. We
stayed close to the shore staying out of the Agulhas current. Sometimes one
would get a bit of counter current, this time we had current against us all
the way. Not strong as we were close inshore, but still holding us back a
bit. Our weather predicted a strong south westerly coming through later the
same day which it did with a fair amount of intensity. We were running
smoothly up to Richards Bay where we had to turn a bit deeper to run around
all the anchored ships. At one point the current really got strong from the
front, and the wind pushed us from behind. Wind against current is never a
bright prospect. I was catching a quick rest at the time, and was up and
out in a flash when a wave crushed on us from behind. Our boat which is
heavily loaded was doing the rodeo and we had to get out of the current as
quick as possible, and also get some momentum forward to prevent another
wave braking on our stern, which is the nautical term for the back of the
boat. I decided to stay up until we were out of danger. We have tied our
quite a few things onto the boat, and this was a good test to see if there
was any weakness in our efforts. Glad to say that we came out of the rough
patch with everything still intact. Me with a few extra grey hair, but so
be it. Monday morning turned out to be nice and calm, and we started the
day with coffee and rusks. After such a rough night I thought everyone
would be fairly wacked. To my surprise John, who is turning 71 this year,
was up at first light and had a few lures trolling behing the boat in no
time. And he also landed a few small bonnies which he rreturned to the
ocean. An hour later Aubrey prepared a succulent fresh fruit salad for
breakfast, and lunchtime we were treated with a spaghetti bolognaise and
salad. For supper we had delicious chicken stir-fry with basmati rice. I am
used to one, sometimes two meals a day. So yes, we are eating well, very
well. And quite healthy as well.

We reached Maputo at sunrise this morning, the sea was flat, the current in
our favour, and we all got a good rest last night thanks to the smooth
conditions. I made some cornmeal porridge for breakfast, krummelpap as it
is known to Afrikaans speaking people, and an hour later we had fruit
salad. Lunchtime we were spoiled with hamburgers and salad, and tonight
Edrick will be preparing porterhouse steak for us. As you probably have
gathered by now, this is no ordinary yacht delivery. As we all woke from
the night shifts, we started testing a few systems. First our desalinater,
and afterwards the washing machine. We are expecting a bit of northerly
winds for the next two days, sometimes north west, sometimes north east,
and northerlies in between. We are motor sailing in an easterly direction
for now and following the contour lines of Mozambique. On Friday we expect
strong south westerlies from behind, by which time we should be deep into
the Mozambique channel, close to Bassas da India, a atoll that lies about
100nm north of Europa Island. Both are just about in the middle between
Africa and Madagascar.

What a pleasure it is to sail with a few guys that have never done a
crossing before. Most people only dream of sailing across an ocean. And as
you can gather, the rough weather makes way for smooth weather, and the
rough never last all that long. This morning we once again have a few lures
out, thanks to John, but no strikes yet. Because we are five on board, our
watch system works a bit different from our usual four hour shifts during
the day and three hour shifts at night. Our shifts are now just two hours
long, day or night. We hope to arrive in the Seychelles before the 21st of
June. A estimated three week trip. Compared to my previous trip which took
three months, this is a nice quick crossing. I never underestimate the
ocean, and will make sure that we travel as safe as possible. I will post a
blog every second day or so, and hope you enjoy the trip with us.

Take care till next time.