Thursday, February 1, 2018

One Life, One Love, Live It

With Fortaleza disappearing in the background we went in search of good
winds and currents. Studied Windy.com for currents predicted up the
Brazilian coast, and also did a Fastseas.com route plan to optimize our
passage. We patiently kept hunting and eventually our patience paid
dividends. Our route was quite a bit wider than I have done previously, but
I am not known for doing things the same time every time. It was the 21st
time I have done this route and always open to try something new. One day
flowed into the next and a week or so later we were closing in on the
string of Caribbean islands. We planned a rendezvous with S/V Second Wind,
a Leopard 58 I delivered last year to Malta. The owner, his wife and a few
friends were aboard, as well as Richard who was my 1st Mate on Second Wind.
I recommended him highly to the owner as a skipper which he has since
fulfilled with great success. They sailed the boat from Malta across the
Atlantic to the Caribbean and were now island hopping in the Caribbean. Our
plan was to meet in St.Vincent as they were tied to a mooring buoy in the
lagoon there. The night before we arrived at St.Vincent was slightly
uncomfortable. The sea state was lumpy and coming onto the continental
shelf just accentuated the unsettled pattern and rhythm. Only 15kts of
wind on the beam but not pleasant. We were approaching St.Vincent a bit
earlier than anticipated and decided to bear off for a while waiting for
day light. That placed us on a broad reach and every one got a few hours
of good rest in. Early the next morning we sailed into the lee of
St.Vincent and once we were close enough, motored straight into slight
headwinds and flat seas. At 7am we were close to the lagoon when Second
wind spotted us. They radioed in and informed us that stronger winds are
expected later the day and for the next few days. The lagoon was not such
a good place to be and they were looking at anchoring a Bequia, a small
island about nine miles south of St.Vincent. We on the spot altered our
course and went straight for the anchorage at Bequia. It saved us
navigating through a very narrow channel into the lagoon in quite windy
conditions. Second Wind followed an hour later and soon we were safely
anchored in a sheltered bay with lots of other yachts there as well. On
catamarans you can anchor in really shallow waters which often gives you
quite a bit of space as the mono hulls have to anchor in deeper waters and
normally flog together. It was so exciting seeing Second Wind coming into
the anchorage and I was jumping up and down and waving my arms at them,
being a hooligan at times. And being very happy to see some familiar faces
again after many miles at sea. Spending time at sea with people creates a
special bond. Mostly. There are a few, a very few I should add, I have
sailed with before and couldn't care less whether I ever see them again or
not.

We were invited to Second Wind and soon were rowing across in our rubber
duck. No need to attach the outboard as they were really close. I
introduced the people on Second Wind to Nathan and Jaryd, Dan they knew
well as he was also crew on Second Wind. Dan and Richard are long time
friends and were also happy to see each other again. Nathan and Richard
also know each other well. They were both crew on Come What May, a Royal
Cape Catamaran we delivered a year earlier. Richard showed Nathan and
Jaryd around on the Leopard 58, while Dedreich, his wife Louanne, Eric and
his wife Michelle, and myself sat up on the flybridge enjoying some
refreshments and snacks and sharing our experiences since we all saw each
other just under a year ago. Wonderful to catch up, kick back and just
relax a bit. Lots of laughs all around. Dedreich earlier requested to have
a look at Ooga Chaka, and after a few hours of catching up I asked Richard
to take Dedreich, Eric, Nathan and Jaryd to Ooga Chaka. Nathan could show
Dedreich what his boat looks like. Second Wind has a bigger tender with a
fixed outboard and there was no need to row across. We decided to have
supper on shore and better to have a look round now while the sun was
still up.

Once Dedreich and co returned we radioed the water taxi and they took us
ashore. We walked around a bit and soon decided that a place called Maria's
would be where we have supper. Nothing elaborate, just a cheese burger and
fries, and a few few beers. It is what us sailors mostly enjoy when we get
on land after a long passage. The burgers were great, the beers were cold
and the company was excellent. At about 9pm we decided to head back to our
respective boats, Richard and Dan decided to stay behind for a while. We
said our farewells as we were planning to depart again early in the
morning. As usual I was awake first and started doing a few odds and ends
getting ready to raise the anchor. Fortunately I checked if everyone was
aboard before we raised anchor, and saw Dan was missing. Dedreich was also
up already, and we enquired from him whether Dan perhaps slept over on his
boat for the night. He only found and woke Richard up. In a few minutes
Richard was dressed and came over on their tender to take us ashore to go
and look for Dan. Jaryd, Richard and myself went ashore. We all asked
Richard how he could leave Dan behind, but being long time friends have
done this before. Richard was however concerned and said Dan would always
make sure he is back at the boat and that something must have happened. We
walked and asked around a bit, it was still quite early. Soon we found that
Dan was in hospital. Richard and Jaryd went looking for Dan at the hospital
and found him still asleep with his head bandaged. Apparently he slipped
and cut his head on a rock and the police brought him to hospital. Richard
woke Dan who was quite confused as to where he was and how he got there.
The nurse explained to Richard what happened, and after calling the doctor
who came in to check on Dan, removed the drip in his arm. Dan had someone
else's undies on and someone else's shirt as well. The nurse explained that
his clothes was full of vomit and handed the package to Richard. Richard
made a donation to the hospital, thanked them, and he and Jaryd and Dan
started the walk back to the dock where the tender was tied up. The whole
mission took about three hours and quite embarrassing for Dan to walk
through town in undies. The people apparently had a good laugh at him. I
drove the tender back to the boats, dropped Dan and Jaryd on our boat, and
went back to Second Wind to go and say our final good byes and wished them
a great time in the Caribbean. They wished us a safe passage and Richard
dropped me back at Ooga Chaka. Dan was man down, and fortunately for
him Jaryd is a qualified medical practitioner. Nathan, Jaryd and myself
raised the main sail, lifted our anchor and set our course to Vieques, our
next stop which was only three days away. We had about 25kts of wind on the
beam and made a fast passage to Vieques. Nathan, Jaryd and myself did an
hour longer watch to stand in for Dan which gave him 24 hours to recover.
Afterwards he was still in pain but no longer dizzy spells Jaryd declared
him no fit yet, Nathan and myself declared him fit for watches :-))) If you
want to run with the wolfs you cant want to pee like a puppy Dan as fully
recovered since and a nice little scar on his head which will be with him
for life.

We arrived at Vieques where Nathan lived before and wanted to collect some
stuff he left there. His friend Christian also joined us for the hop to Fort
Lauderdale. Christian owns a ranch on Vieques and him and Nathan co-owns a
Cessna 210-5, a six seater light aircraft. Our plan of action was to stay
for two days. Day one Dan and myself serviced both motors and tidied the
boat up a bit. Nathan and Jaryd had to fill some jerry cans with diesel. We
had 20 cans and filling each one with 20 ltrs made it easier to handle. We
were at anchor and everything had to be tendered ashore. Later the day
Nathan had some friends over while Dan and myself were doing lunch at a
place called Duffy's, which also had good wifi. The whole island was in
recovery mode after hurricane Maria caused havoc during September last year.
Scary listening to the accounts of the people we spoke to who were left
stranded on the island. After the 250kts of wind ran through, two weeks of
torrential rain followed, madness in highest degree. But one picks up the
pieces and start over again, that's the nature of our human spirit. What
else can one do. Thursday morning we went to Christian's ranch to get
Nathan's goods he left there. Both of them were there when the hurricane
came through. We also met a mad dog called Blue Bell there and had lots of
fun with this friendly loving dog running circles around me and Dan. Endless
energy. At about 10am we left for the small airport and boarded the Cessna
210-5 after all he safety checks were done. Took off and made a bee line for
Puerto Rico and circled the largest radio telescope in the world. What a
blast that was, my first flight in a small fixed wing aircraft. On our way
back we landed in Puerto Rico to take on some fuel, and half an hour later
we were on our way again back to Vieques. A last bit of provisioning was
done, all aboard, lifted anchor and started our last leg to Fort Lauderdale.
At Duffy's I checked the weather again and also consulted Fastseas for a
passage plan. I decided not to follow the recommended passage as it would
take us through strings of small island, rocks, and cays that the Bahamas is
known for. Difficult and dangerous to navigate at night, and with the strong
winds predicted opted to follow the southern part of Bahama Banks. Shallow
water as well, but not to many obstacles. 25kts of NNE for a day or so, and
gradually veering to NE all the way to East. We set 3rd reef on the main,
and third reef on the genoa, and set the auto pilot on windhold at 85
degrees to the wind. The wind would thus determine the direction we sail in,
and amazing how we followed the southern edge of the banks. On our track you
will see what I am talking about. A bit of rough weather we had, especially
for Christian as it was his first time on a yacht. He held up well though
and was soon into the swing of things. A fast learner he was tying bowlines
etc soon, a natural :-))) No passengers on a delivery vessel and he made a
great contribution, assisting with watches and helping whenever we made sail
changes.

Just before we went onto the shallow banks we sailed across a thick floating
line that got caught in our rudders and props. As we could not use our
rudders or engines and had to slow the boat down to figure a way out of our
predicament, I furled in the genoa and let the main sheet loose. We had
about 20kts of wind at the time and 2mtr waves. The boat slowed down
completely and we managed to lift part of the thick rope with our boat hook
and three guys pulling it up and around the cleat, and the 4th person
cutting it loose. We also hauled probably about 20mtrs of the thick orange
line aboard and kept it. Once we had most of the line cut loose, we tied Dan
to a line with a bowline, gave him a mask and a knife, and he went in to cut
the last bit of line from the rudders and props. Not an easy task I can
assure you, but he did exceedingly well and within ten minutes we were on
our way again. I was shouting orders left right and centre. There was no
time to sit around and contemplate. We had to do what we had to do and do it
quick. his has happened to e a few ties before and I knew exactly what we had
to do. This is what I really get paid for, to draw on my experience when the
paw paw strikes the fan. I have also learned not to slack off when we are
close to our final destination. It is not over until it is over. Instead of
slacking off, we become even more cautious, and it is this what keeps us out
of trouble and keep me at the top of my game. Always thankful and grateful
and at the mercy of the elements.

The azure blue of the Bahama Banks, the bright full moon, gentle but fast
sailing, and soon into the Gulf Stream. And life, as usual is exceedingly
well. Great crew dynamics, lots of fun and good times, fantastic meals. All
now busy coming to an end. Unforgettable times and memories. I will post some
video footage and pictures of our adventure within the next few days to add
some colour to these word.

We expect to arrive at Fort Lauderdale within the next 24 hrs. A quick and
thorough cleaning of the boat, and then fly back to SA. Spend six weeks at
home with my darling daughter, and then get ready for my next delivery. This
time a Maverick 400 with the owner aboard from Cape Town to Annapolis. We
should get the boat 1st of April and the trip should take about two months.
Lots of things I plan to do when I get home. The adventure never ends.

Once again thank you for taking some interest in our adventures. Live life.
Love life.

Paul