We have been sailing beautifully after departing from Mauritius, heading
for the Southern Ocean in a south easterly direction. One day just flowing
into the next, and before we knew it was 28/10 and Geoff's 50th birthday
was upon us. Marina prepared an extra special breakfast, lunch and salad
and also baked a birthday cake. We celebrated and sang happy birthday to
you, and the mood on the boat was jovial. Long strips of cirrus clouds also
appeared above us, and as the night set in, so did the rain as the cold
front was catching up with us. Further down south the eye of the storm was
watching and winking at us. For safety's sake we only had 2nd reef in the
main and genoa sails, and were slowing down quite a bit, expecting stronger
winds which did not come through immediately.
The first sign of something big coming our way was a set of swells that
rolled through under us every now and then. Gently the stronger winds
settled in, not exploding on us as it sometimes does when a squall hits
you. Our weather predictions showed only 25kts of wind and 4.6mtr waves,
but from experience we always times 1 and a half of what is predicted. We
kept to our south easterly course for a while, but as the wind and the
waves grew, we started bearing of bit by bit, and soon we were running east
keeping the wind and waves at safe angle. Starting of in our power zone,
which on catamarans is round about 75 degrees to the wind, it places a lot
of pressure on the rigging. It can take a lot of pressure, but the sea
state can double he pressure as the boat is tossed about in a big seas. And
big the seas did get. Over 7 meter waves were coming through in sets of
three. These waves were coming from where the storm was really raging
further down south. The average ceiling height in a house is 2.4 meters,
times that by three and you will get an idea of size waves we had. Some of
them foaming and breaking over the tops, no ways we want to run sideways up
these monsters. The wind speed topped at about 40 kts, which is just over
70 km/p/hr. Further down south the wind was peaking at 65kts, over 120
km/p/hr.
I get nervous when the sea gets like this. Can't sleep, my stomach stays in
a knot which tightens every time we surf down a big wave, or a big wave
brakes over us. One has a few options when it gets rough like this; face
into it using your motors, run with it, or heave to. Heaving to is a
somewhat magical way of using a bit of main and head sail to work against
each other and keeping the boat at nearly stationary. More for really
extreme conditions. There are pro's and con's to every storm tactic, and we
normally try to run with it, using less and less sail, and placing the
angle of the wind more and more behind you. The ocean dictates what she
wants, and you either oblige or you get wiped out, simple as that. The
beauty of the Maverick named Island Home we are on, is that besides feeling
solid like a rock, she also has a third reef in the main sail. Which means
you can balance the boat perfectly by deploying the small area of mainsail
and add a bit of genoa as conditions dictate. That way the momentum of the
yacht is spreaded and therefore more balanced. Without a third reef you would
just use the genoa, and all the power would be on the bow.It instils a lot of
confidence in your yacht's performance under strong conditions. If you surf
down the waves too fast you get broach, or go head over heel. If you go too
slow, you stall in the trough of the wave and the following waves crashes
over you. The nautical term for that is getting pooped. Anyways, as the wind
speed increased, we were bearing off more and more, and eventually were
sailing with the wind at a 150 degree angle from behind and just the main in
third reef.
The really serious storms I have encountered I can count on one hand, and
having logged more than 200 000nm across the oceans of the world, says a lot
about really big storms at sea. The circumference of planet earth is 22000nm
along the equator, which means I am on my way to having nearly gone around
ten times. When I do get trapped in these huge storms, it becomes a matter of
survival, and I essentially become an animal. Aggression, cursing and
swearing, instinctively you fight with every grain of strength you have. When
you are on the edge of the edge, there is no room for fear. The saving grace
is the only constant factor I know, and that is that things will change. The
storm will abate, just hang in there :), and hope that you are strong enough
both physically and mentally. Physically strong becomes natural when the
adrenalin is pumping, mentally strong comes from somewhere else. As long as
you have a reason to live, you will be mentally strong. I normally visualize
my princess at home waiting for her daddy, and come hell or high water, I
will come home. For her, for my family, for my friends. By far the biggest
part of sailing is pure bliss.
Fortunately the storm we had on Island Home was not even close to being
severe, although it was strong enough to keep me awake for two days. I have a
family on board that trust me to get them to the other side alive, and that
is exactly what I will do. I have unlimited respect for the ocean and all her
moods, and I stay humbly in submission to her will. I am part of the big blue
out here, and at times I am just a piece of flotsam trying to stay afloat. I
have never shed a tear during a violent storm, it is the rainbows afterwards
that brings a tear to my eyes. I hope you have something worth living for,
something worth fighting for. Without that I would be lost.
Friday, October 31, 2014
Saturday, October 25, 2014
Departing from Mauritius on Maverick Island Home
Island Home explored Mauritius for a month, and now it was time again to go
and seek out the deep blue ocean again. I flew in from South Africa and
Tim, Geoff's brother, flew in from Australia on the 17th. Once again, we
were six aboard Island Home, and getting ready ready for our sail to
Fremantle, Australia. Portitis set in a bit, Marina's word for that
restless feeling when you have been sitting in the same spot for a few
days, especially in port. We had to wait for some repair work to be done
and decided to spend the weekend in Grand Bay, the main spot in Mauritius
for yachties. Tim and myself decided to explore a bit and had lunch at the
Beach House. A fairly famous restaurant and pub owned by Cabous van der
Westhuizen, a colourful rugby character from South Africa. Long hair and a
flair for a gap, Cabous is fondly remembered by most South African rugby
fans. We each had a beer to contemplate what we will have for lunch, and
another beer to enjoy with our burger and chips. I have never seen such a
big burger patty anywhere, and the centre was filled with cheese. Donna,
our waittress, made sure we were well looked after.
Monday morning at first light we lifted our anchor and set course back to
Port Louis, a nice and easy downwind run. Our windscreen was supposed to be
replaced on Monday morning and we tied up at the boatyard. It took quite a
bit of time to remove the windscreen which was completed on Monday. On
Tuesday the sealant that held the broken windscreen in place was removed
and a primer was applied and allowed to dry before the windscreen was
sealed into place and allowed to set. Wednesday the outer bead of sealant
was applied and Thursday morning the final finishing touches were done. By
which time we all had a spell of portitis and departed on Diwali which fell
on 23rd October. Tuesday the bulk provisioning was done, and Wednesday
fresh produce was sourced in a fairly big fresh fruit and veggie market. I
was impressed with the quality and variety of fresh produce on sale. Diwali
is a Hindu festival and lots of fireworks can be expected.
We cleared customs and immigration on Wednesday, and on Thursday at about
10am casted off. We called port control on the VHF radio and they granted
us permission to depart. We motored into the wind to round the island on
the north, and set sail under a spectacular cliff called Gunner's Quoin.
Loads of tropical fairy terns were nesting on the cliff. A smallish white
coloured tropical bird with a long white tail. Our sails filled with wind
and we were sailing south for a while before we tacked sailing north east
again to miss Mauritius. When we tacked back we had a good line and sailed
down the easter side of Mauritius. The night set in and bright displays of
fireworks were lighting up the evening skies. Quite a fitting farewell to
this colourful island. Some fairly heavy squalls also kept us on our toes
with fairly strong gusts of wind and heavy rain pouring down for short
periods of time. It was a bit choppy, but once we reached the southern tip
of Mauritius and entered the deeper waters, things settled a bit.
Our route to Australia is taking us in a south easterly direction into the
Southern Ocean from where we will head east towards our destination. Our
weather predictions were fairly accurate and we sailed conservatively with
second reef in our main and head sails for the first night. The wind at
first will be from more or less an easterly direction and slowly back to
north until we get to the westerlies which is the trade mark of the
Southern Ocean. We are not planning to go down too deep in the Southern
Ocean. 40 degrees south is called the roaring forties for a reason. It is
mostly one big storm after the other coming through. We might go down to
38 degrees south to check out an extremely small island called St.Paul, or
to use it as a safe haven should a fierce front come our way. We should be
there in about 8 days or so, and from there on we will curve back up to
Fremantle which is on the south westerly coast of Australia.
Friday we still had some fairly strong weather and kept to our second reef
sail settings. We are doing close to 6kts average since we left Mauritius.
On Friday we also landed a fair size dorado, and today we had a totally
delectable fish curry served on basmati rice prepared by Marina. Just after
lunch the sea was settling nicely and it was time to to get more sail up
and we tied first reef on the main and head sails. Starting to sail really
smoothly and loving every moment being out here. From Mauritius to
Fremantle is about 3250nm and we will probably sail it in three weeks or
so. We have full tanks of diesel on board, but will mostly have to use it
for charging our batteries.
Everyone on board is settling in nicely. Scott had a quick seasick session,
and wished at that moment that he flew to Australia instead of sailing.
Given that it was a bit rough and it was the first few days out, he is once
again in his element and happy to be out here. That is how we know Scotty.
Tim is fine and enjoying his time out here. A bit hot still and his cabin a
bit too hot for his liking, he is joining the saloon sleepers. Smooth and
with a bit of a breeze, definitely the best place to sleep. He woke me
early this morning as there was a ship that was on a collision course with
us. Waited half an hour before calling the ship and requested the captain
to alter their course 10 degrees to starboard to give us room to sail.
Fortunately they have spotted us and have already altered course by 10
degrees, altered another 10 degrees just to give us extra peace of mind,
and wished us a safe journey onwards.
Soon we will have the wind and waves from behind and do what we enjoy doing
most; running with the wind. Wishing you all the best until we touch base
again.
Paul
and seek out the deep blue ocean again. I flew in from South Africa and
Tim, Geoff's brother, flew in from Australia on the 17th. Once again, we
were six aboard Island Home, and getting ready ready for our sail to
Fremantle, Australia. Portitis set in a bit, Marina's word for that
restless feeling when you have been sitting in the same spot for a few
days, especially in port. We had to wait for some repair work to be done
and decided to spend the weekend in Grand Bay, the main spot in Mauritius
for yachties. Tim and myself decided to explore a bit and had lunch at the
Beach House. A fairly famous restaurant and pub owned by Cabous van der
Westhuizen, a colourful rugby character from South Africa. Long hair and a
flair for a gap, Cabous is fondly remembered by most South African rugby
fans. We each had a beer to contemplate what we will have for lunch, and
another beer to enjoy with our burger and chips. I have never seen such a
big burger patty anywhere, and the centre was filled with cheese. Donna,
our waittress, made sure we were well looked after.
Monday morning at first light we lifted our anchor and set course back to
Port Louis, a nice and easy downwind run. Our windscreen was supposed to be
replaced on Monday morning and we tied up at the boatyard. It took quite a
bit of time to remove the windscreen which was completed on Monday. On
Tuesday the sealant that held the broken windscreen in place was removed
and a primer was applied and allowed to dry before the windscreen was
sealed into place and allowed to set. Wednesday the outer bead of sealant
was applied and Thursday morning the final finishing touches were done. By
which time we all had a spell of portitis and departed on Diwali which fell
on 23rd October. Tuesday the bulk provisioning was done, and Wednesday
fresh produce was sourced in a fairly big fresh fruit and veggie market. I
was impressed with the quality and variety of fresh produce on sale. Diwali
is a Hindu festival and lots of fireworks can be expected.
We cleared customs and immigration on Wednesday, and on Thursday at about
10am casted off. We called port control on the VHF radio and they granted
us permission to depart. We motored into the wind to round the island on
the north, and set sail under a spectacular cliff called Gunner's Quoin.
Loads of tropical fairy terns were nesting on the cliff. A smallish white
coloured tropical bird with a long white tail. Our sails filled with wind
and we were sailing south for a while before we tacked sailing north east
again to miss Mauritius. When we tacked back we had a good line and sailed
down the easter side of Mauritius. The night set in and bright displays of
fireworks were lighting up the evening skies. Quite a fitting farewell to
this colourful island. Some fairly heavy squalls also kept us on our toes
with fairly strong gusts of wind and heavy rain pouring down for short
periods of time. It was a bit choppy, but once we reached the southern tip
of Mauritius and entered the deeper waters, things settled a bit.
Our route to Australia is taking us in a south easterly direction into the
Southern Ocean from where we will head east towards our destination. Our
weather predictions were fairly accurate and we sailed conservatively with
second reef in our main and head sails for the first night. The wind at
first will be from more or less an easterly direction and slowly back to
north until we get to the westerlies which is the trade mark of the
Southern Ocean. We are not planning to go down too deep in the Southern
Ocean. 40 degrees south is called the roaring forties for a reason. It is
mostly one big storm after the other coming through. We might go down to
38 degrees south to check out an extremely small island called St.Paul, or
to use it as a safe haven should a fierce front come our way. We should be
there in about 8 days or so, and from there on we will curve back up to
Fremantle which is on the south westerly coast of Australia.
Friday we still had some fairly strong weather and kept to our second reef
sail settings. We are doing close to 6kts average since we left Mauritius.
On Friday we also landed a fair size dorado, and today we had a totally
delectable fish curry served on basmati rice prepared by Marina. Just after
lunch the sea was settling nicely and it was time to to get more sail up
and we tied first reef on the main and head sails. Starting to sail really
smoothly and loving every moment being out here. From Mauritius to
Fremantle is about 3250nm and we will probably sail it in three weeks or
so. We have full tanks of diesel on board, but will mostly have to use it
for charging our batteries.
Everyone on board is settling in nicely. Scott had a quick seasick session,
and wished at that moment that he flew to Australia instead of sailing.
Given that it was a bit rough and it was the first few days out, he is once
again in his element and happy to be out here. That is how we know Scotty.
Tim is fine and enjoying his time out here. A bit hot still and his cabin a
bit too hot for his liking, he is joining the saloon sleepers. Smooth and
with a bit of a breeze, definitely the best place to sleep. He woke me
early this morning as there was a ship that was on a collision course with
us. Waited half an hour before calling the ship and requested the captain
to alter their course 10 degrees to starboard to give us room to sail.
Fortunately they have spotted us and have already altered course by 10
degrees, altered another 10 degrees just to give us extra peace of mind,
and wished us a safe journey onwards.
Soon we will have the wind and waves from behind and do what we enjoy doing
most; running with the wind. Wishing you all the best until we touch base
again.
Paul
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)