St.Helena onwards

The weather was really kind to us from Cape Town to St>helena, and as you can
see in the pics I posted, we were sailing in under our big blue gennikar. I
have no problem arriving at any time at St.Helena, day or night. Just much
easier if you arrive while it is still light. A few massive dolphins welcomed
us, and as we turned the first headland, a beautiful rainbow was also smiling
at us. An hour before we arrived I radioed St.Helena Radio on VHF Ch 16 to
announce our imminent arrival. As usual they requested us to call in again
when we are 1nm from James Bay which we did. Port Control then called
us and requested us to go down to channel 14. They required some information
instructed us to tie onto one of the red mooring buoys as our boat is rather
big and heavy. We arrived at about 6pm and as expected Port Control informed
us that they will clear us in the next morning. I know the drill having been
here a few times before, but we patiently follow procedure as if it was our
first time at the island. It affords Radio St.Helena and Port Control an
opportunity to do their thing properly.

Once we were safely tied up to our mooring buoy the crew all dived into the
calm, relatively warm water. We also untied our rubber duck and took it for
a spin to make sure everything is working as it should. The sun was just
setting, perfect timing for us. We all marvelled at the colours that was being
painted across the skies. Afterwards we all sat down for dinner and had a
restful evening sleeping on a quiet boat with hardly any movement. After
nearly two weeks of sailing it was good to relax a bit, not that sailing is
not relaxing. But slightly more relaxing nestled in James Bay. Early Saturday
morning and it was wonderful to wake up next to these towering cliffs and lots
of fairy terns flying around. There were a few other yachts on the mooring
buoys as well. More yachts arrived during the course of the day, and it was
great to see a few of the boats that departed from Cape Town the same day as
us. At 9am Port Control radioed us and invited us to come ashore from where we
will clear in. The ferry boat collected us at 10am and soon afterwards we were
free to roam the island. The landing steps at the wharf were quite hectic.
Close to new moon, the equinox and a big swell still running from the week
before made landing a rather precarious exercise.

Our plan of action was first to move 20 bags of charcoal and a few other
things from our boat to Anne's Place, a standing order for whenever we
arrive at St.Helena. It was wonderful to walk into Anne's Place and be
welcomed back like a long lost son. Jessica was the first to spot us and
after a big hug and introducing my crew to her, Jane also made an
appearance. The warm hearted greetings we always receive there always makes
us feel so very welcome, a home away from home. Love my family there dearly.
I recommended to my crew to first do Jacob's Ladder before we order burgers
and beers, easier that way. They are a fit bunch, working out on the boat
every day. Even so, the ladder did not disappoint. Tristan was leading, Dan
followed shortly behind, and Richard stayed with Carey. Carey wanted to stop
every now and then to take in the scenery and take some pics :) After they
reached the top they walked through a forest all the way to the Governor's
House, quite a distance. From there they hitch-hiked back to town. The first
car that came past gave them a lift, typically of these most friendly Saints,
as the people of St.Helena is called. We had a burger and a beer or two and
made some plans for the rest of our time there. We asked Jessica to join us
later in the evening and show us around a bit. We went back to the boat, had a
quick swim and a shower, and at 8pm made our way back to the wharf on our
rubber duck.

We fetched Jess at Anne's Place and went up the road to the White Horse Inn
to shoot some pool with the locals there. Lots of fun and laughter and at
10pm were ready to go and enjoy some life music. We danced through a few of
the band's songs and at about midnight went to Donny's. Carey was looking
forward to an early morning and we took her back to the boat. Back at
Donny's we were jiving to the vibes from the DJ until they closed at 2am.
The place was jam packed and great to see so many familiar faces there. We
made our way back to the boat after saying bye to Jessi and went to bed
feeling well and truly exhausted.

The next morning up early and a quick dive into the ocean to shake off any
cobwebs from the night before. It was now Sunday and we had a few plans for
the day. A little tlc for Second Wind first, and a bbq at 2pm at Anne's
Place was on the to do list. Legendary bbq's we always have at Anne's Place.
We took about 3kgs of beef sausage/boerewors with us, and Jane supplied
chicken, steak, salads, chips, garlic bread etc, and afterwards spoiled us
with desert. Every time I visit the island, we have a bbq at Anne's Place
with Richard and his family. The other yachties are always also invited, and
it unfailingly turns into a great event sharing our experiences and catching
up on the latest developments on St.Helena. At half five as they call it, half
past five as I call it, we made our way back to the wharf to catch the last
ferry at 6pm. Although we had our rubber duck tied up safely, there were
quite a few yachties and easier to catch the ferry than risk getting on the
rubber duck from the steps. I instructed Dan and Tristan to swim out to our
rubber duck, untie her, and we will meet them at the boat. Young guns as
they are they were soon on their way. We waited a few more minutes for the
ferry and we all made it safely back to our boats.

Monday morning, and before we arrived at St.Helena, we have arranged for
700ltrs of diesel which was scheduled for Monday 10am. At 10am our fuel
arrived. We filled both tanks and drums, and were now ready for the long haul
to Cape Verde. We tied our rubber duck down solid, packed our drone, and made
our last visit to the island on the ferry boat. We had to have our passports
stamped in and out as immigration is not open on weekends. Once we were
stamped in and out, we had a final bit of shopping and had a burger and soda
drink at Anne's Place before we bid them farewell. Our final mission was to
take some footage of Jacob's Ladder and Jamestown with our drone. Not sure if
we were allowed to, but we did it quick stix and should we had a run in with
the law I could honestly plead ignorance. No signs anywhere that we need
permission to fly our drone. Got some great footage, packed our drone in our
bags and made our way for the 2pm ferry. We paid the ferryman his dues, got on
and got ready before casted off. Usually we would head straight out, but this
time decided to follow the island contour up to Egg Island. There were rumours
that we could catch some wahoo there. We tried but no luck. We then set our
course roughly for Cape Verde. As the wind sometimes blow from the east and at
times south east, we keep our sail at about 150 degrees to the wind. Which in
short means we don't always sail the straightest line, but hopefully the
fastest line.

The cherry on the cake whenever I visit St.Helena is that I can chat to my
daughter Maryna from a call box. She is turning 14 on the 1st of July. Clear
lines, unlike on a satphone where the signal and delays makes it sometimes
very frustrating to call from. We sms each other, an email now and then, but
nothing as satisfying as hearing her voice clear as daylight. She follows her
dad on the tracker as well. She knows what it is like to be out here on the
big blue. She was 5 when she sailed with me from Cape Town to Belize, 7000
nautical miles. We visited St.Helena, and her name is engraved on one of the
steps on Jacob's Ladder. I often engrave it again when I visit to keep it
fresh and visible. After St.Helena we had a quick stop in Fortaleza, Brazil,
St. Vincent, St.Lucia and spent a bit of time in Belize. We explored some of
the Mayan ruins and she made quite an impact on the local kids there. They
loved braiding her long blond hair and we learned that if you invite a friend
for some cold drinks and cookies, expect 15 to turn up :))) Loved every moment
of it.

Two days ago one of our lures was attacked by a wahoo. I watched it jump and
fight taking out line at an alarming rate. As we had a nylon trace on I knew
it was simply a matter of time before we loose the teethy wahoo. On a yacht
unlike on a ski boat, we can't turn around in an instant and chase the fish
down. Yes, I can can turn the boat around in an instant when we have a man
overboard, but this situation did not call for such drastic action and stress
on the rigging. We decided to rig two of our bigger rods and reels and made
some steel wire traces for our lures. Since Cape Town we've had no luck with
fish. Not even a strike, except for the one mentioned above. I have never been
so well equipped to catch fish either. We also have loads of pickled ginger,
wasabi and soya sauce, for just in case we land a fish. Fresh sushimi and
sushi and fish strips and fillets, we have all the tools and the ingredients.
Now we are trolling three lures behind us, and waiting :)))

From St. Helena to Cape Verde is about 2200nm. The first bit is easy enough
with the SE trade winds assisting us tremendously. For a while, even past the
equator. Then we expect a period of no wind, known as the doldrums. Which is
why we are delighted to have a full supplement of diesel. After the doldrums
we can expect wind mostly from the NE, headwinds. Nothing to hectic this time
of year, but sailing into the wind is a different dynamic than running with
the wind as we mostly have done so far. We will take it as it comes, as the
weather dictates. From Cape Verde we will be heading on a close haul for
Madeira, where the owner will be joining us to share in the fun. A few days
from there we will be stopping in Cadiz where we will take on a few more crew
before we head into the Med. Lots of fun ahead, some of the guys joining us in
Cadiz also did the Mykonos race with us, and looking greatly forward to seeing
them again.

We are expecting sligtly stronger winds for the next few days. We just dropped
the gennikar to make sure the shackles and knots are all secure and raised her
again. Making excellent miles we are well ahead of schedule, good for the
slower times ahead. I hope you are having a wonderful weekend and will catch
up soon again.

Paul