Cefalu to Messina

We arrived at Cefalu at about 1pm, asked the locals where we could fill
up with some LPG and they informed us that town is about ten minutes
walk away. Immediatly we set of for town and soon were surrounded by
quaint little buildings lining narrow cobbled streets. Very fortunate I
asked the first person I spoke to where we could get LPG and he invited
me in. It was the local supplier of gas heaters etc, no signs etc
outside. They thought they may have a problem with filling the cylinder
as the fittings were different from theirs. We left the bottle there and
they said we must be back in half an hour or so. Went for a stroll
passing all kinds of very colourful shops looking for an atm. Found one
and nearly next door was a small Italian barber shop. On the spot I
decided to have a haircut and 10 euro later I felt like Valentino.

We returned to the gas shop and were informed that the guy has left with
the bottle to fill it up and should be back shortly. Two hours later the
shop assistant phoned the owner who was running around doing some other
errands as well. We were hoping to get back to the boat in time to get
two extra drums of diesel just in case. In the meantime we went for a
slice of pizza next door and standing under an awning to stay out of the
rain a bit which fell sporadically. Another two hours later the owner
returned to lock up shop and handed us the gas cylinder. He managed to
fill it and charged 35 euro. Most of the time I spend waiting I was
having a conversation with the owner's brother in law who was also the
shop assistant, the language barrier not to bad but still took a lot of
effort to communicate. I was invited for real Italian pizza in the
country should I return sometime in the summer.

When we got back to the boat it was already dark and the fuel dock was
closed. I looked at the weather and decided to stay for the night as the
weather in Messina will be good from us on the 28th, so no reason to
beat into the wind now and wait there. We could rather wait here and
have a nice run to Messina. We had an excellent rest after we had a warm
cup of tea and food cooked with the gas now filled. The gas meter
before we ran out of gas indicated that we still have a quarter
bottle of gas left. The next morning we waited for the fuel dock to open
and were told the guy should be in by 9 or 10. No problemo. He arrived
at 11:30 and informed me that they have no diesel. He called a taxi for
me and filled up the drums quite some distance from the port. No stress
at all as our timing should be good to arrive at Messina on the
28th, only 70 miles away.

We casted off and had a gentle breeze from behind and maintained 4 kts
motoring. Through the night the breeze picked up a bit and we were doing
even better, eventually sailing with just the genoa on a downwind run
getting 5 kts and more. The entrance to the Straights is just six miles
away and we will enter at about 7am, absolutely perfect conditions and
timing. Brings back tough memories when I tried to get through three
years ago. Three times we tried and twice we had to run back for
shelter. On the third day we went through it was at midnight and on the
way there were three maydays called on the VHF. After all this time of
beating against the wind through the Med it is a most humble and
grateful and thankful crew that will soon go through the Straights and
enjoy the beauty that is to be found here. The irony that one of the
most beautiful places can also be one of the most treacherous places is
not lost on me. Greece is now only 290 miles away and we should reach
our final destination in the next two or three days.

We sincerely thank you for your prayers, your thoughts, your mails and
sharing our experience with us. Not there yet, so please don't stop. We
promise to take even more extra care. We have come this far and know
that to slack now will not be good. The weather looks good for our last
few days and it is amusing how a long stretch of tough sailing can be
sorted out by a small stretch of plain sailing. Guess one wouldn't
appreciate the smooth if it wasn't for the rough.

Wishing you a splendid day.

Paul