It's been a while since I placed some words on paper :) We have been
working hard to get up north, as we expected some favourable current from
9*N upwards, called the North Equatorial Current, which runs in more or
less a westerly direction. First we had to sail quite far out west to work
an angle to get up north, as the predominant wind is right where we want
to go, northwest. And having land in our way to go up north, noped us to
carry on going west. Then we tack back north east for a while, and the
wind shifts again and we go back west. Excruciatingly slow progress,
having wind and current against us, relentlessly. The sea however is
fairly smooth, sometimes looking more than a placid lake than an ocean.
Which is probably why it is called the Pacific Ocean, very placid at
times. Tacking this way and that way, and making really slow progress,
sometimes feeling like we are not getting anywhere. Then you have to dig
deep, and stay motivated, and stay focused. And know , that as always,
things will change. And change they did, albeit slowly. Once we had enough
ocean to work with we could tack up northeast, and come close to land. We
would come within ten nautical miles of land and then tack back west
again. I am sure the gods of the winds were having a good chuckle at us,
and the gods of the currents too.
Our first plan of action was to go out wide, and then I decided it may be
better to stay right close to land and hug the coast as we do in South
Africa. Some counter currently we will apparently find there, as well as
plenty of fishing boats and fishing lines. We are open ocean long distance
sailors, and we feel safest when we have a lot of searoom to run into if
we have to. And just when I decide that is what we will do, things change
again and we start making good progress in a good direction. At last we
made it up far enough north and was elated as we saw the current letting
us go and start working in our favour. And the wind also shifted a bit
more northeast and made for an excellent sailing angle. And all the time,
day and night, we keep on working and adjusting sail and direction to
maximise whatever comes our way. From despair to elated, sailing can
sometimes be so emotional. Yes, we put heart, body and soul into what we
do. We give it our all, all the time. And then when we experience our
first blast of strong winds funnelling through the valleys, a little fear
also creeps in as the sea works up, from flat to four meters within an
hour. And once again, we set our sails according, and go with flow, and
breath a sigh of relieve as the wind stops getting stronger and stronger
and settles at just over thirty knots. A taste of things to come.
Further up the coast, between Mexico and Guatemala, there is a huge valley
called Tehuantepec, and the wind that funnels through there can get up to
hurricane strength. It can last for a few hours up to a few days. Close
inshore one would seek a safe anchorage. It works the sea up as well quite
quick, but fortunately blows towards the sea. The effect of this wind can
be felt a hundred or two miles offshore, and that is where we prefer to
be. At least two hundred miles offshore. The colder ocean and the hot
desert, and the huge continental valley, all comes together to create this
beast of a wind. In the Med the Mistrals are similar winds. Cold air
trapped and when it gets hot, it blows out at speed. And if you are not
careful and expect it, it will take you out. And we plan to arrive alive,
with everything intact. Arriving on time for the boat show is a dream that
is busy fading, but who knows, perhaps we can do a few demo sails for
prospective buyers. Hugely disappointing, but on the other side, a few demo
sails might be even better than a boat that gets trampled at a boat show.
So yes, we are hugely motivated for the challenges that lies ahead, and
challenged we will be. I just counted my seamiles, and I have now sailed
eight times around the world. And yet, I am in humble submission for what
the ocean can throw at me. Always ready to learn, and if necessary, to
fight, as we sometimes have to when the going gets rough. I am fortunate to
have two excellent fellow mariners with me on board, and couldn't wish for
better crew. We are having fun out here, even though it is super stressful
at times. Our team in Cape Town is also the best one can wish for. Always
urging us to do our best, to stay safe, to stay real, and to enjoy. And our
boat Infinity, what a lovely lass she is turning out to be.
Last night we had a booby bird perched on top of our spreaders. The night
before we had one right on top of the mast, which was not so cool. Our wind
instruments and VHF aerial is also up there. Trying to chase the bird away,
we shook the shrouds. That's the strong cables that holds the mast up. We
blew the foghorn trying to make a huge racket, but the bird would not
budge. Even thought of hurling oranges at the poor bird, but then we may
damage our instruments ourselves. We did try an egg each. I missed by a
mile, Stuart was a bit closer, and Thibault's egg landed right on deck.
Stuart's hatch was open, and I was standing right above his hatch when the
egg dropped straight down onto me. Thinking it may fall into Stuart's
cabin. I tried to catch the egg or at least divert it a bit. The result was
a nice yellow splash just next to Stuart's hatch, with a few drops of raw
egg falling into his cabin. Back to our bird passenger last night, when
Stuart came up for his watch, he climbed on deck to look at the spectacular
starry skies. I had all the lights off and the instruments covered to make
it as dark as possible. The bird blessed Stuart with a nice wet spray of
bird poo :) This morning I was not so impressed with the bird, as his poo
was also all over the mainsail and deck. Thibault and myself did our best
to point into the wind, and scrub the sail as we gradually lowered it. Got
most of it off, but we will have to try again once we are in San Francisco.
What was also awesome last night was a few dolphins that came around and
lit up the water with their antics. The bioluminiscence profiled their
bodies perfectly, and to see these torpedo shaped bodies playing in our bow
wake was unforgettable. The sea was flat once again, so flat that the stars
reflected brightly on the ocean surface. The light from above and the light
from below was, as I said, unforgettable.
So yes, just another day at the office for us. Another week or two. And we
will be in San Francisco. Interesting city, in very many ways. Never really
thought I wanted to visit for any particular reason, but once again my
sailing adventures are taking me to new destinations. And once again I am
so excited, and so happy to be alive. And so happy to share a little bit of
what we do out here with you.
Until next time, go you exceedingly well.
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