Sunday, November 13, 2011

St.Helena and beyond

We arrived at St.Helena just past midnight and after five attempts had
the anchor holding.Always such a pleasure to arrive at night,especially
on or near the full moon and some open skies.The lights up Jacob's
Ladder,the longest man made ladder in the world,was hauntingly waiting
to be conquered again.The lights of Jamestown blinking and normally the
leading lights which were not on when we arrived.We announced our
emminent arrival an hour before we arrived and went through the sing
song of repeating everything three times and being answered in the same
way,doing it by the book.

Soon we were fast asleepand woke up at first light.Took a while before
we could go ashore but by 9:30 we were clearing customs,immigration and
port control.We also booked a tour for the next day as it was too late
to arrange for Napoleon's house etc to be visited.Took in our
laundry,greeted some long time friends and found ourselves at Anne's
Place.The crew got ready to scale Jacob's Ladder and Steven decided to
run the first bit up,two steps at a time.They were fairly exhausted when
they returned but we sat down and had a burger sitting chatting with
Richard and Jane,owners of Anne's Place,getting all the latest news.

After 50 years of yes no yes no eventually a contract was signed with
Basil Read to construct an airport to sum of 201 000 000 British Pound
plus another 40 or so for running costs during the first ten years.There
is a lot of construction going on,a new customs house thst was just
completed.We were fortunate when the clock tower was raised with a crane
and placed on top of the building,history in the making and we were
there.Construction of the airport is due to start early next year,and a
new breakwater as well.We were shown all the sketches and plans and
everyone is very exciting about all these new developments.

Not enough manpower or accommodation to do all this and we were offered
jobs on the spot.Accommodation camps will also need to be erected to
cater for the construction workers.The whole operation is immense in all
regards.New roads will have to be constructed and everything will have
to be shipped in.You should be able to get the latest news on the
net.We stayed on at Anne's Place till nearly 9pm when we arranged for a
ferry to take us back to our boats.

We were also invited to Anne's 71st birthday on 11/11/11 but we
reluctantly declined as we wanted to leave on Thursday straight after
the tour.Thursday morning arrived and at 9am we started our tour and
what an amazing tour it was.I have been here a few times and everytime
it gets better and every tour I see something new.This time we were
taken to the usual Napoleon's house and all the other normal
attractions.Exceedingly good to see Jonathan again,the oldest animal in
the world,now estimated to be about 220 years old.What was new for me
was a visit to the Boer prisoners of war graveyard.I found four
inscriptions of my forefathers here,four soldiers bearing the same
surname and would love to do some research and find out if they were
direct relatives bearing the same surname.At about 2pm the tour was
finished and we had a last meal of lamb chops at Anne's Place,collected
our laundry and greeted everyone farewell till next time.At 3pm we
started the engines to warm up and started to raise the anchor.Try as we
might,we could not dislodge it.We tried from all angles letting chain
out trying to unwrap the chain or dislodge the anchor but to no avail.I
called one of my friends and they arranged for a diver but would only be
able to do it the next day,Friday, at 3pm.Nothing we could do,it has
been decided by higher powers that we will stay,the island wouldn't let
us go.Which meant that we would be there for Anne's birthday,an immense
honor.The diver arrived at about 3:30pm and dislodged our anchor which
was wedged in under a rock.

Anne is now confined to a wheel chair,has Alzheimers but looked
absolutely glowing when they wheeled her in.She has for over 40 years
been a mother to all of us that sail the oceans and stop at
St.Helena.She would feed us,do our laundry,love us and leave us much
stronger to carry on.I tried to communicate all the love from all the
sailors that ever had the privilege to meet her.Words were not
important,we both looked at each other and our eyes just flooded with
tears.I am one of her wayward children and as much part of her family as
her own flesh and blood children,who I also take as my brothers and
sisters,and are always welcomed as such.The islanders are known as
Saints,and as my good friend Kirsten have always called
me,St.Paul,part of the family.My dear wife might object a bit to
this,but that is another story altogether.Tinker tailor soldier
sailor.Mmmmmm....

We were back at our boat at about 10pm on Friday and I wanted to leave
just after midnight.We also had the option to leave early the next
morning and flipped a coin to decide when we will leave.The coin said we
willleave just after midnight and we decided to catch a quick two hour
nap.At midnight me and Bernhard got up to tie off and go,but I then
decided,what the heck,lets get a proper rest in and leave at first ligh
t which is what we did.The weather for the next few days is fairly
strong with up to 35 kts of wind from behind and close to 4mtr swell to
surf down.The powercat is another beast and wants to zigzag down the the
waves,placing quite a bit of stress on the boat.To keep us running in a
straight line we let out some mooring lines in the centre of the boat
and the effect is perfect.I experimented a bit with the length of line
and found a sweet spot.We are going about half a knot slower,but much
more comfortable and less stress on our vessel.

St.Helena will never be the same again.With the airport it will become
accesible to everyone.There are some positives and some negatives to
this but only time will tell how it all pans out.Our postion at 13h00 UTC
on 13/11 is 14*20'S/009*23'W.We expect to arrive in Brazil in ten days
time to take on some fuel.

I wish you a most pleasant week ahead and hope your 11/11/11 was also a
most memorable day.

St.Paul

No comments:

Post a Comment