We hope to post some interesting and inspiring blogs for your enjoyment. We have a slight problem with our satelite coms system and trust that it will be sorted out shortly. We are currently sailing north north west to get far north as the wind, current and motors will take us.
On Friday night we expect a strong front to move in and we should be just out of it's reach if we can maintain a decent pace. The wind should back from north all the way to southeast which will assist us greatly bringing in strong winds from behind. We have two headsails ready to deploy and make the most of these tradewinds.
On board myself as captain, Malcolm Rennie as 1st Mate and Jarryd Muller as crew. We are planning to make a quick stop at St. Helena and then the long haul to St. Vincent. From there depending on weather we hope to get to Belize in less than two months.
It is our first day out and my fellow mariners are slowly growing their sealegs. It takes a day or two before one becomes accustomed to the motion if you are that way inclined.
Time here by us now 22h35, we are 12nm west of Saldanha, water temperature 12*C. Wind a gentle 8kts from behind and we are motorsailing staying comfortably above 5kts.
Take care and we sincerely hope to sort our satcoms out soon. Otherwise no way we can blog every day.
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Saturday, April 14, 2012
Tahiti......at long last.
About 20nm from the harbour entrance I was just thinking whether I should turn off the port motor and run the starboard when the port engine ran out of fuel. After accepting that I will have to go in on one motor , if we make it on that one motor we heard on the VHF another yacht that also just ran out of diesel and adrift. They were about 15nm and we were at that stage about 12nm out, they were three miles behind us. They were calling a fishing vessel for assistance and I immediatly made contact with the yacht. I informed them that we are very much in a similar situation and just idling along on our last few fumes of diesel on the one motor. I asked Steven to drain all the fuel out of the port tank so we can add that also to the starboard tank. The pipe taking the fuel to the motor does not reach all the way to the bottom as sludge eventually forms there after a few years. Our diesel was super clean and no problem. It took a while but we managed to drain about 3ltrs. I was rushing Steven to add the fuel to the starboard tank when the motor ran out of diesel as we were opening the fuelcap to add the extra diesel.. The yacht in distress informed us that they have ordered two 20ltr drums of diesel and as soon as they are sorted they will get to us and pass the other drum over to us. It was starting to get dark and an hour afterwards they were close. We discussed how we will do the transfer on the VHF. We got our motor running again with the last three liters. They requested us to disengage and just drift, they would come alongside and throw us a line. On the other end of the line they had the 20ltrs of fuel attched and the plan worked like a charm. They informed us that they are going to a different marina than what we were planning to do as one normally can't go in at the main harbour after dark as the airport is closeby and one has to get permission from the air and port control to enter. The planes take off and could easily dismast you if they are struggling to gain height after take-off. We split the 20 ltrs in two and had both motors running when we went into the channel. We owed them a drink or two for getting the diesel and delivering it as well. They had as they term it a delivery from hell. They left Mexico 33days before and everything that could go wrong with their boat went wrong. We tied up at 11:30pm and were just in time to catch the bar open. We had two drinks each and our debt was settled.
Afterwards we took a five minute walk, found a small 24hr supermarket. Ibought a roast chicken, two french loaves , mayonaise and a two ltr Coke. We got back to the boat and sat down having a feast at 2am. Soon afterewards we were sound asleep. About 7am we were awakened by the same couple, and another yachty had someone on the phone for me. I emailed our base manager the night before and informed her that where we were. She advised me to get back to the main harbour asap as we can only clear customs and immigration there. I took on another 20 ltrs as we were tied up right next to the fuel dock and I wanted the last run to be completely stress free as far as diesel was concerned. We left at 8am and at 9am I called Papeete Port Control and asked permission to enter the harbour. They gave us the green light and directed us to our berth. I went to a spot that we thought was the right place, right next to town, close to everything. Our agent arrived half an hour later and pointed us to the customs dock, a place close to nothing and nowhere.We moved the boat and half an hoiur later the base manager, Patricia arrived to do the handover. As it was 10:30 she advised that we first get the immigration behind us before they close for lunch. We did just that and an hour later we were sorted. We then started with the handover, and thanks to the crew the boiat was sparkling clean and we had very few minor problems to report. An hour later after a thorough inspection by Patricia we were done. We were in a bit of a rush as Steven and myself were flying out the next day, and any delay whatsoever will mean that we will miss our flights. Thankfully everything worked out fine.
We locked the boat and started the long walk to town to go and find a bar and something to eat, also to find banks open etc. We had mixed success but eventually got sorted. I told the guys we will have to get back to the boat early as I still need to pack and our taxi would fetch us at 3:40am. They made sure we got back early, early the next morning,about 2am to be exact. Being fairly tired I had to focus one more time, got my bags packed, had a quick shower and just had our luggage off the boat when the taxi man came walking to us, perfect timing. Eduard was fast asleep and we could say our final farewells., Nick stayed up and helped us get our luggage to the taxi. Soon Steven and myself were at the airport, a bit shellshocked but ready to catch some rest on our long flights home. He is heading for Paris and then a small hop over to Birmingham, I am at the moment in Tokyo waiting for my next flight to Dubai and work my way back to SA.
It was an extraordinary trip in many ways, and it had us in suspense till the very last. Thanks to the crew, their families, our office in Cape Town, my friends and family. Thanks for all the prayers, the good wishes, and being part of our adventure. Without the support of all of you our trip would have been not half as nice, and we appreciate all the mails we received regularly.It kept the crews morale high. It was easy to share our experiences as we had no bad experiences. I will in the next few days select the 100 best photos of our jouney and will post them on a web album. Thanks for the emails received from everyone that want to be linked to the web-album, I will mail you as soon as I have got them sorted. It should not take longer than two weeks.
All good things come to an end, as all bad things also do. To Steven, thanks matey for the last nearly 30 000nm you sailed with me. I wish you all the best for the future. You are a star in many ways. To Eduard, I have invited him as first mate on my next trip if he should be available and not busy with something else. He has worked hard to deserve this invitation. To Nick, thank you very much for adding your special contribution to our journey as well. You are planning to travel some more and I wish you safe travels and awesome experiences. To my parents, thanks for all the support I always get from you, thanks for the weather mom. To my wife and daughter, I will be home soon. Planning to take a three month break and hoping to make the most of it.
And that's it folks. Email me at sailwithpaul@gmailif you haven't already and we will stay in touch for the web album and our next adventure.
Over and out
Captain Paul
Afterwards we took a five minute walk, found a small 24hr supermarket. Ibought a roast chicken, two french loaves , mayonaise and a two ltr Coke. We got back to the boat and sat down having a feast at 2am. Soon afterewards we were sound asleep. About 7am we were awakened by the same couple, and another yachty had someone on the phone for me. I emailed our base manager the night before and informed her that where we were. She advised me to get back to the main harbour asap as we can only clear customs and immigration there. I took on another 20 ltrs as we were tied up right next to the fuel dock and I wanted the last run to be completely stress free as far as diesel was concerned. We left at 8am and at 9am I called Papeete Port Control and asked permission to enter the harbour. They gave us the green light and directed us to our berth. I went to a spot that we thought was the right place, right next to town, close to everything. Our agent arrived half an hour later and pointed us to the customs dock, a place close to nothing and nowhere.We moved the boat and half an hoiur later the base manager, Patricia arrived to do the handover. As it was 10:30 she advised that we first get the immigration behind us before they close for lunch. We did just that and an hour later we were sorted. We then started with the handover, and thanks to the crew the boiat was sparkling clean and we had very few minor problems to report. An hour later after a thorough inspection by Patricia we were done. We were in a bit of a rush as Steven and myself were flying out the next day, and any delay whatsoever will mean that we will miss our flights. Thankfully everything worked out fine.
We locked the boat and started the long walk to town to go and find a bar and something to eat, also to find banks open etc. We had mixed success but eventually got sorted. I told the guys we will have to get back to the boat early as I still need to pack and our taxi would fetch us at 3:40am. They made sure we got back early, early the next morning,about 2am to be exact. Being fairly tired I had to focus one more time, got my bags packed, had a quick shower and just had our luggage off the boat when the taxi man came walking to us, perfect timing. Eduard was fast asleep and we could say our final farewells., Nick stayed up and helped us get our luggage to the taxi. Soon Steven and myself were at the airport, a bit shellshocked but ready to catch some rest on our long flights home. He is heading for Paris and then a small hop over to Birmingham, I am at the moment in Tokyo waiting for my next flight to Dubai and work my way back to SA.
It was an extraordinary trip in many ways, and it had us in suspense till the very last. Thanks to the crew, their families, our office in Cape Town, my friends and family. Thanks for all the prayers, the good wishes, and being part of our adventure. Without the support of all of you our trip would have been not half as nice, and we appreciate all the mails we received regularly.It kept the crews morale high. It was easy to share our experiences as we had no bad experiences. I will in the next few days select the 100 best photos of our jouney and will post them on a web album. Thanks for the emails received from everyone that want to be linked to the web-album, I will mail you as soon as I have got them sorted. It should not take longer than two weeks.
All good things come to an end, as all bad things also do. To Steven, thanks matey for the last nearly 30 000nm you sailed with me. I wish you all the best for the future. You are a star in many ways. To Eduard, I have invited him as first mate on my next trip if he should be available and not busy with something else. He has worked hard to deserve this invitation. To Nick, thank you very much for adding your special contribution to our journey as well. You are planning to travel some more and I wish you safe travels and awesome experiences. To my parents, thanks for all the support I always get from you, thanks for the weather mom. To my wife and daughter, I will be home soon. Planning to take a three month break and hoping to make the most of it.
And that's it folks. Email me at sailwithpaul@gmailif you haven't already and we will stay in touch for the web album and our next adventure.
Over and out
Captain Paul
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Nearly there
We are less than 50nm from Papeete, Tahiti with no wind and precious
little diesel. Ran out of diesel on the starboard motor this morning and
for a moment felt not too happy. Took out all of my diesel containers
just in case and found half a drum of diesel, enough to take us all the
way. We are cutting it that fine. The bit of wind we expected last night
did not happen and we had to keep on motoring at low refs. The little
bit of breeze that teases us keeps us working hard, sails up, sail down,
sails out, sails in, then she changes direction and we have to change
our sails accordingly, very whimsical conditions but waht can we do.
Normally we would just motor until the wind settles, now we have to beg
and plead for some attention. Serves us right I guess,we've had three
months of fairly easy, and she is making us sweat a bit on the home run.
No problem though, we stay humble and honest, don't loose our cool.
Stressful at times, I cannot deny that. But looking at it objectively I
cannot help but laugh at myself for getting myself into this situation.
Am I mad, I hope so, just a little, just enough so I won't get all
serious about these things and loose my joy for life.
little diesel. Ran out of diesel on the starboard motor this morning and
for a moment felt not too happy. Took out all of my diesel containers
just in case and found half a drum of diesel, enough to take us all the
way. We are cutting it that fine. The bit of wind we expected last night
did not happen and we had to keep on motoring at low refs. The little
bit of breeze that teases us keeps us working hard, sails up, sail down,
sails out, sails in, then she changes direction and we have to change
our sails accordingly, very whimsical conditions but waht can we do.
Normally we would just motor until the wind settles, now we have to beg
and plead for some attention. Serves us right I guess,we've had three
months of fairly easy, and she is making us sweat a bit on the home run.
No problem though, we stay humble and honest, don't loose our cool.
Stressful at times, I cannot deny that. But looking at it objectively I
cannot help but laugh at myself for getting myself into this situation.
Am I mad, I hope so, just a little, just enough so I won't get all
serious about these things and loose my joy for life.
Besides running low on diesel and wind, our food supplies are also
dwindling. Maizemeal, soya beans, baked beans and peas is what we have
left for supper type of meals, and for breakfast we have a lot of Jungle
Oats,maple syrup, peanut butter and milk powder left, so although we
don't have a lot and are not eating like kings, we are surviving and
healthy. We also decanted the last 120ltrs of fresh water into our tanks
this morning. Other than that we are very busy getting the boat spick
and span for handover tomorrow. Our bags are packed, Icannot tell you
how much we are craving meat,any meat. Every night we place an order to
the person preparing supper. Last night it was steak, egg and chips,
with a cold beer, mushroom burger with chips and a coke, a mighty meaty
pizza with a Heinekin, and an eishbein with a draft. Then we sit down
and eat maizemeal with soya, baked beans, peas and try various sauces
and spices. If we make it in time tonight, we will make a mission of
finding some meat to eat.
Our position is damn close to Tahiti and we will post one more blog
adter we have arrived there.
Stay cool
Paul
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
Still going strong
Last night at about 6pm we passed the last atholl on our way to Tahiti.
It was with some sense of relieve that we entered into more open waters,
although the open waters turned out to be very bumpy. Unexpectedly we
had some good wind to sail but were going to fast for the seastate. I
decided to reef both main and headsail to second reef. We were sitting
much better and not falling into the troughs slamming rodeo style. It
is as if we will be tested to the very last, no easy at last we are
nearly there. But yes, somehow we made a good 60 mile through the night
and at 8am this morning only had 150nm to go, a days work in our books.
The wind did fade in the early hours of the morning and we had to motor
a bit, but not too long before the wind settled in from behind and
Steven asked if we should put the twin headsails up. I gave him the
thumbs-up and since then we have been maintaining a fair speed under
sail. We are nearly at the point where we will have enough diesel
to motor the rest of the way. We should be arriving at Tahiti some time
tomorrow, but we are not 100% clear yet. We are really at the mercy of
the elements and do the very best we can with what we get.
It was with some sense of relieve that we entered into more open waters,
although the open waters turned out to be very bumpy. Unexpectedly we
had some good wind to sail but were going to fast for the seastate. I
decided to reef both main and headsail to second reef. We were sitting
much better and not falling into the troughs slamming rodeo style. It
is as if we will be tested to the very last, no easy at last we are
nearly there. But yes, somehow we made a good 60 mile through the night
and at 8am this morning only had 150nm to go, a days work in our books.
The wind did fade in the early hours of the morning and we had to motor
a bit, but not too long before the wind settled in from behind and
Steven asked if we should put the twin headsails up. I gave him the
thumbs-up and since then we have been maintaining a fair speed under
sail. We are nearly at the point where we will have enough diesel
to motor the rest of the way. We should be arriving at Tahiti some time
tomorrow, but we are not 100% clear yet. We are really at the mercy of
the elements and do the very best we can with what we get.
Should we run out of diesel it won't be the end for us. We are close
enough to call for assistance from various sources. It will take a boat
from Tahiti half a day to reach us and we can decide on an exact
position to meet, or stay in touch via satphone and once closer via VHF.
But I am quietly confident that we will be better than ok, that we will
be in time to stick to our handover and flight schedules. One wouuld
think that after three months att sea sailing nearly half way around the
globe the last few miles should be a breeze. But not so, nearly never do
we have that. There is always that extra bit of effort required to stay
on top of things. Anyway, I have heard rumours that both Nick and Eduard
also wants to do a posting on the blog. I always invite my crew to do a
few postings which they hardly ever do, and I don't expect them to. That
way I don't get dissapointed if they say they will and they don't. I
will just make sure I do a blog anyway and you won't be dissapointed
when there is no blog. Only one or two more postings for this trip
though.
In the meantime we are busy with the big clean up. Packing, sorting,
shining, getting ready to hand the boat over on the 12th. And she will
be shining as the star that she is and has been the last three months.
Not saying cheers yet, just saying she has been exemplary thus far and
we will show our appreciation by treating her right as well.
Our position at the moment is 16*28'S/147*24'W. We are 140nm from Tahiti
and at 5kts we will be there at lunchtime tomorrow.
Take care
Paul
Apologies
Apologies for not blogging the last two days. I could give a few reasons
but please just accept my apology. After Fatu Hiva we were in a big rush
to get to Tahiti as our flights are booked etc, and were motoring quite
hard to get to Tahiti on the 10th of April. In the process we also used
more diesel than expected and suddenly found ourselves a little short of
diesel with just over 300nm to go. Two days to go with one and a half
days diesel left. This prompted us to run the motors at much lower refs
and going much slower in turn. Now and then we have some wind from the
squalls and use every bit of wind we can find. I was reminded of the
perils should one run out of diesel as described in a previous blog and
now we face the same predicament. Running low on many things we have got
to keep our heads in the right space and keep focusing on our goal. It may
take us a few days longer to get to Tahiti, so close and yet so far.
but please just accept my apology. After Fatu Hiva we were in a big rush
to get to Tahiti as our flights are booked etc, and were motoring quite
hard to get to Tahiti on the 10th of April. In the process we also used
more diesel than expected and suddenly found ourselves a little short of
diesel with just over 300nm to go. Two days to go with one and a half
days diesel left. This prompted us to run the motors at much lower refs
and going much slower in turn. Now and then we have some wind from the
squalls and use every bit of wind we can find. I was reminded of the
perils should one run out of diesel as described in a previous blog and
now we face the same predicament. Running low on many things we have got
to keep our heads in the right space and keep focusing on our goal. It may
take us a few days longer to get to Tahiti, so close and yet so far.
We have been fortunate to have had some good spells of wind and during my
shift from 9 to midnight we were doing very well when the headsail turned
all wrinkly on us. One of the shackles up the top of the mast have come
undone and I had to furl it in partly and sail with a limping sail, tying
a sling to create some shape in support of the mainsail. We were doing ok
but could have done much better. Early this morning I discussed the
problem with the crew. Steven said he'll go up the mast, but as Eduard has
a passion for climbing and have often said he would like to get to the
top, it became his mission when he volunteered. We had to haul him up
three times before we had everything back in shape. Noy easy to get to the
top of the mast with the boat moving around. The forces up there are much
stronger than you can imagine standing at the bottom. Once he finished we
all gave him a high five as it was an enormous task accomplished.We
unfurled the headsail, pulled her back up and she is back in perfect
shape. Unfortunately we don't have wind at the moment, but fortunately we
are ready for when the wind does come our way.
We caught a bonny two days ago and had half for supper the same day. Fancy
that we may have the other half for sushimi today, something to look
forward to. Everybody is also busy preparing the yacht for handover,
cleaning and shining and making tidy.Yesterday morning we went close past
Takaroa, an atholl well known for it's black pearls and other interesting
facts. Saw a wreck on the one side and our electronic charts mention that
it is not the worst place to get stranded, and this wreck is sitting high
and dry on the beach. These are fairly dangerous places to try and enter
and I decided that we will just run along at a safe distance after our
depth sounder alarm unexpectedly showed some shallows that was not charted
on any of my paper or electronic charts.
Outside I guess the weather in a way reflects the weather in Cape Town at
the moment, raining. All around us big banks of dark clouds are spilling
their loads and now and then we are fortunate enough to get some of it.
There is also some thunder and lightning in the air and in anmticipation
of a strike we have fastened a length of chain to the mast and the other
end hanging in the water to act as a conducter. We also unplug the VHF
aerial as that is normally the first thing that gets taken by a strike. It
then runs through the db board, jumping all the circuit breakers and
frying all our instruments. Back to the rain, if life gives you lemons you
make lemonade, here by us, if it rains, we can shower in fresh water,
straight from the sky. Lovely, refreshing, rejuvenating, I just had one.
Sometimes it takes a while to get properly wet, soaped up and rinsed off
again, but if you stand at just the right spot you get all the rain that the
sail catches in the stackpack splashed onto you everytime the boat moves a
bit. While I was having a shower we also got a call from one of my fellow
skippers who often calls to check the weather with me. It is not any
consolation to know that they have much further still to go and also running
low on diesel, all three boats behind us. Fortunately for them there is a
good front coming through from the 11th and will stay for a few day. This
should get them home in one go, I sincerely hope so.
As for us, what can I say, we will make it, one way or another, we always do.
But we do appreciate your good wishes,your prayers, your thoughts, the good
energy you sending this way. In a big way, this is probably why we always find
a way. Our psoition currently is 15*33'S/146*03'W. Distance to go to Tahiti
exactly 235nm.
Saturday, April 7, 2012
Fatuhiva a beauty that all eyes should witness (First hand)
Hello to all, this blog is done by steve so sorry for the bad
punctuation and bad spelling if there is (probably will be)
punctuation and bad spelling if there is (probably will be)
anyways we approached our destination of fatuhiva early morning befor
the sun had woken and the island was a dense black silhouette on the
horizon, by the time we had got to the island and the anchorage the sun
was just about to show its face. We droped anchor and out came the
sunshine, oh how we thought only good things could come.
eddy started off our day with a small but oh so delicious breakfast
which was oats, peanut butter and syrup a good and healthy start for a
day that would require alot of energy.
our plan was to spend half the day on the island and leave for tahiti at
noon. so we made early tracks for land but because we have no tender the
only way to the island was a 500 meter swim to shore, the perfect early
morning exercise. so myself nick and eddy got everything we needed
wraped up in black bin bags and got ready for the swim. paul had decided
to stay on the boat and rest his fragile body :).
myself and eddy where the first in and started to make way for the
beauty that lay ahead of us when not even 20 meters from the boat, the
people anchored next to us had woken and seen us swimming for shore and
where nice enough to offer us a lift ( nick was the smart one, he didnt
get wet) the water was absolutaly amazing tho so we didnt really mind.
the two that gave us a lift were liz from the states and a local who's
name i shamfully can not remember but we where very grateful for the
lift.
the main mission for myself was to go and find the fresh water stream
that runs through the island to have a long awaited bath. ( have had
enough of salty showers ) but liz gave us directions to a old carving,
so we decided we would have a mission around and find it, the walk was
amazing and we all felt so blessed that we could
streach our legs and move around on land for a while. on the way to the
carving we walked through a small settlement of houses and a plantation
of banana trees, these where found all over the island along with palm
trees just scatterd all over the place. we noticed on the walk the palm
trees had wedges chopped out of the truck to create a ladder like effect
all the way to the top so something had to be done about this but will
go
more into that in a minute. after walking for about a mile we finaly got
to the carving, we all stood around it and smiled it was a drawing of
what looked to be a whale with three eyes but it also looked like it was
drawn by a 10 year old but anyways it was still a piece of island
history that we got to experience.
now i dont know if paul has said in the blog but eddy is ment to be
quite the climber ( going back to the ladder in the palm trees) we all
decided that we wouldnt mind a coconut for the next leg of our trip to
tahiti so we picked a tree and asked eddy to climeb it. the tree was
about 20meters from ground to first coconut and with no ropes but two
saftey guys on the ground ready to catch a falling body, eddy made his
way up the trunk its was like watching monkey man. although even with
his valeant attempt (15 meters) eddy was not able to get to the top and
grab us a coconut only because on the tree he had chosen to climb only
had
wedges cut 3/4 of the way up. we were most impressed with his effort
tho.
now after this long walk we decided that it was time to persue the
mission for the fresh water stream so we got back onto the main road and
followed it because we were told it connects up with the stream. the
locals made little pools all along the stream by building a small dam
wall using rock stacked ontop of each other which also added that extra
bit of paridise feel and beauty to the moment, there was a burst of
colour at every little wall from the flowers and leaves that were held
back. the first pool we got to was about 3meters by 3meters with a small
rapid like system running into it. so we decided to stop and get in,
what was to follow was a truly mind blowing sensation. the water
was cold but so refreshing, i think we had all forgoten what fresh water
felt like on our skin it truely does feel softer and much lighter on
your skin then salt water. we lay in this pool of tranquillity for about
5 minutes befor nick got the fright of his life and jump up onto his
feet and proceded to say "there was like a full on waterspider" as soon
as he said that i felt something nip my rib cage, turns out there was no
waterspider that wanted to eat us it was just fresh water shrimp that
thought we tasted quite delightful. so we spent the next 10 minutes
seeing how long we could withstand the pleasure and at the same time
torture of these fresh water shrimp tickeling and nipping us all over.
after all that and with chill bumps all over us we decided to get out
and go and explore abit more to see what else this unique and barely
touched island had to offer. we got back onto the main road and started
a our gentel strole past more banana plantations and other plantations
of different fruit, one called ?????? it is a fruit that everybody
should try at least once in there life time if you get the chance, it
looks like a grapefruit with the skin on but once opened up it looks
like a huge lime green orange, if you know what i mean :) the taste is a
mixture of grapefruit with a hint of marula is how i would describe it
with alittle bit of lime in there somewhere. We put one in the freezer
today and had it for lunch the perfect thing for a hot tropical day :)
anyways our walk along the main road continued for about anouther 20
meters and then we came to a bridge that crossed over the stream, not
much of a bridge the stream ran over it but beacuse of this it created a
curtain water fall into another pool this one being alot bigger and it
had a waterfall so as anyone would we stopped, jumped in and had abit
of a chill session and at the same time took a shower and washed our
hair in the waterfall. there was also a small cave eroded away from
under
the road so we were even able to sit behind the curtain of water.
this was where our walk stopped and our mission of exploring the island
began, as we got out the pool we looked up at the stream and saw the
natural wonder that lay ahead of us round smooth rocks of all sizes
pathing its way through the lushes green forestry of the island. we
knew what we had to do and started our trek up the stream, we spent the
rest of our time on the island doing this, we followed the stream for
about a mile taking hundreds of photos so we could have this memory for
ever and would be able to look back on it whenever we wanted. just befor
the sun was above us (around 11) we turned back and followed the stream
back, nick went his own way through the vegetation so eddy and i said we
would meet back up with him at the pool with the water fall. the walk
back down was fulled with comical errors by both myself and eddy falling
short afew time on slippery rocks. it was alot easier going up the
stream then coming back down.
once we got back to the pool nick wasnt there yet so eddy and i decided
to have another body cleans from the fresh water shrimp and one last
shower under the waterfall. nick finaly got back to us about 5 minutes
later and he too came and enjoyed one last fresh water experience.
finaly on our way back to the boat we found a small shop and decided to
get a few things like eggs and some chicken (good old meat). once we had
done this we made our way back to the jetty hoping our friends would be
there to give us a lift back, but it wasnt our lucky day. so this time
we did have to swim back which to be honest was abit shit knowing we had
to get into the salt water after just getting out of the fresh
water. eddy made the first move but unfortunatly came up abit short and
get afew small knocks. after seeing this nick and i decided to take the
safer entry and enter behind the breakiwater and swam round and
continued for the boat.
the rest paul explained in the blog he did yesterday, sorry its late but
i hope you all enjoyed the first hand story of our adventures on
fatuhiva because we sure did they are memories of the most beautiful
place
that i have ever been, and i dont think we will ever forget it :)
happy easter to all
steve
Friday, April 6, 2012
Fullmoon over Fatu Hiva
Once again I have difficulty finding the right words to decribe our
experience In Fatu Hiva. But let's start where we left off last time,
with the boys getting a ride ashore. I am telling this secondhand as it
was told to me and I looked at all the photos, so I have a fairly good
idea of what went down, and what went up. The boys, I should use the
word men really, missioned passed a small settlement and followed a
trail to a fresh water stream and followed the stream further up. Every
now and then they would take a break and sit or splash in the
refreshingly cold water. I told them to look out for the fresh water
prawns and eels in the streams and pools. Quite an experience tosit with
you feet in the water and let these little creatures take off all the
dead skin on your feet. They found some and enjoyed there pedicure very
much, although they say it felt like little electric shocks as the
prawns were cleaning their feet. Not painful but nearly. There are huge
coconut palms on the island and on there way Eduan decided to climb one
and see how high he could get up. Every coconut belongs to somebody on
these islands and they carve small steps into the stems to assist
climbing to the top to reach and harvest the coconuts. Palm trees are
not trees at all, you can google it to find out exactly what they are
and that every bit of a palm tree is utilized for something. Eduard got
about 15m up and came down fairly unscathed. They obviuosly missed land
terribly and couldn't get enough of such pristine forests all around.
experience In Fatu Hiva. But let's start where we left off last time,
with the boys getting a ride ashore. I am telling this secondhand as it
was told to me and I looked at all the photos, so I have a fairly good
idea of what went down, and what went up. The boys, I should use the
word men really, missioned passed a small settlement and followed a
trail to a fresh water stream and followed the stream further up. Every
now and then they would take a break and sit or splash in the
refreshingly cold water. I told them to look out for the fresh water
prawns and eels in the streams and pools. Quite an experience tosit with
you feet in the water and let these little creatures take off all the
dead skin on your feet. They found some and enjoyed there pedicure very
much, although they say it felt like little electric shocks as the
prawns were cleaning their feet. Not painful but nearly. There are huge
coconut palms on the island and on there way Eduan decided to climb one
and see how high he could get up. Every coconut belongs to somebody on
these islands and they carve small steps into the stems to assist
climbing to the top to reach and harvest the coconuts. Palm trees are
not trees at all, you can google it to find out exactly what they are
and that every bit of a palm tree is utilized for something. Eduard got
about 15m up and came down fairly unscathed. They obviuosly missed land
terribly and couldn't get enough of such pristine forests all around.
I asked them to be back at high noon and back they were, having had to
swim about 500m to the boat. Steven and Eduan arrived first and Nick
followed leisurely afterwards. On the breakwater where they first tried
to enter into the ocean, Eduard had a slight mishap and was lucky to get
away with only a few cuts and bruises. The other two then decided to
enter from the safety behind the breakwaters. The other anchorage was
only half an hour away and the guys that gave them a lift in recommended
highly that we make a turn there which we did. I learned then that there
is a fresh water supply at our first anchorage and returned to try and
arrange a lift in again. Steven's one kneee was troubling him a bit and
as I said Eduard was cut and bruised, both them needing to catch their
breath again. After waiting for about an hour for a lift a fisherman
eventually came past and Nick and myself hitched a ride to shore. I was
now ready to step foot on land after a month at sea and enjoyed our
little expedition very much. Got to meet some locals, were introduced to
some of there amazing craftmanship, checked out some tattoos and
generally had a whaleof a time. We got some fruit etc and bumped into
the same people that gave the boys a ride in. They gave us a ride back
to the boat and offered to take us ashore again to fill our waterdrums
which we gladly accepted. By the time this was achieved it was just
about 6pm, 6 hours behind schedule. For their trouble we gave them a big
bag full of goodies that we still had left over and haven't used at all.
Loads of tea and bushtea, spices, wasabi, soya sauce and a few other
sauces, 2.5lktrs of Lecol lemon juice etc. They were absolutely
delighted. If we had time we would have joined a fullmoon wild bboar
hunt with some of the locals who invited us. Apparently a fairly
dangerous hunt as the boar comes for you once he hears you. They then
either use a spear or a gun to stop the boar in it's tracts.
At six am we raised our anchor, bid our new found friends farewell and
were off into the sunset, heading straight for Tahiti. The sunset was
purely a show of nature at her best, and when we looked back the full
moon was just starting to peep over the jagged cliffs that is Fatu Hiva.
We didn't know where to look and where to take photographs. As the sun
went lower and lower and the sky turning a deeper and deeper red, the
moon behind us was rising higher and higher, casting the island in a
mysterious shroud of silver blue magic. All the boys were in total
agreement that they have never seen a place so beautiful. We were also
escorted out by a few dolphins, and one that jumped about 2 mtrs out of
the water over our bow. How else can anyone feel but totally blessed,
totally humbled, and totally beautified by this experience.
We are 690 nm from Tahiti, and having left six hours later thanplanned
we are running the motors a bit harder tomaintain 6.5kts in order for us
to arrive at tahiti early on the 10th. We will cut through the atholls
and once again we will all be witness to beauty untold, but not planning
to stop. Our position currently is 11*03'S/139*42'W. I have turned our
clock back another hour for the last time and we are now 12 hrs behind
SA and UTC -10. If I haven't got your email address and if you like,
send it to me at sailwithpaul@gmail.com. I am planning to do a proper
web album of our trip with photos and captions and will send you the
details.
Hope you are having a safe and blessed Easter Weekend.
Paul
Thursday, April 5, 2012
Fatu Hiva welcomes us
How does one describe seeing land for the first time in a month, edged
out on the horizon with the moon casting her magic spell on the already
magic scene ahead of us. And being nearly full moon, as the moon was
starting to sink into the ocean the sun was starting to reveal the first
signs of a brand new day. At exactly 05:55 we had our anchor secured.
The whole experience approaching the island in the early morning hours ,
to watch the island growing bigger and bigger, the smell of straw or
driftwood, difficult to pinpoint it exactly. This is why I love arriving
at first light, a fairly broad term when the moonbeams pave the way
towards your destination. I can never tire of this feeling, this
awestruck numbness in face of such beauty. Around me there are towering
cliffs covered in lush green vegetation. To the left, to the right, and
when I look straight ahead of me ever deepening layers of cliffs upon
cliffs. I think the best artists to capture this are the Japanese
watercolour paintings depicted scenes like this. A feeling of serenity,
of majesty, of untold beauty.
out on the horizon with the moon casting her magic spell on the already
magic scene ahead of us. And being nearly full moon, as the moon was
starting to sink into the ocean the sun was starting to reveal the first
signs of a brand new day. At exactly 05:55 we had our anchor secured.
The whole experience approaching the island in the early morning hours ,
to watch the island growing bigger and bigger, the smell of straw or
driftwood, difficult to pinpoint it exactly. This is why I love arriving
at first light, a fairly broad term when the moonbeams pave the way
towards your destination. I can never tire of this feeling, this
awestruck numbness in face of such beauty. Around me there are towering
cliffs covered in lush green vegetation. To the left, to the right, and
when I look straight ahead of me ever deepening layers of cliffs upon
cliffs. I think the best artists to capture this are the Japanese
watercolour paintings depicted scenes like this. A feeling of serenity,
of majesty, of untold beauty.
There are two anchorages at Fatu Hiva and I must have anchored at the
anchorage further west when I was here last five years ago. I was
surprised when a few dim lights here was visible as we approached our
approached our anchorage. There are two othe r yachts here and I
dropped anchor close to the yacht that was lying closest to shore. A few
small fishing vessels are also tied to a few bouys and I had to take
extra care finding the right spot to drop our anchor. After a few
re-adjustments I was happy we tied on the bridle, filled in our log book
and switvched the instruments off. We have arrived. It looked like we
will have to swim ashore and Eduard proceeded to cook some Jungle Oats
as it would take some effort to get ashore, maybe a ten minute swim, and
figured the extra energy would come in handy. By 7am the boys were
ready, a few things wrapped in plastic and time to go and explore a bit.
I opted to stay on the boat, making the excuse that someone has to watch
the boat. Eduard and Steven had just jumped in when the yacht ahead of
us asked if they wanted a lift ashore, which was gracefully acceted.
While the other boat was getting ready the two swam to the tender or
rubber duck or dinghy, whatever you want to call it. Nick was still
aboard getting himself ready for the swim ashore and he was fetched off
our boat.
You may wonder why I opted to stay aboard the boat when paradise was
right here all around me. Sometimes I look at all the beauty around me
and get scared that I may loose myself in it. Perhaps I feel unworthy of
such blessings of stepping on such sacred land. Perhaps I am too
attached to the boat I am on. Perhaps I want some time just by myself. I
have travelled far and wide, and this is without any doubt one of the
most beautiful places on our planet. And I just like to sit on my boat
and look at it, take it in , have a moment. I don't expect anyone to
understand who I am, and what I am. neither do I expect anyone to follow
the path I am on. We all walk our own paths. Am I mad to be like this?
Maybe. Am I certifiable? Certainly. Have I been at sea too long? Can't
be. Anyways, our position is Fatu Hiva, I asked the boys to be back at
noon so we can experience an atholl or two on our way to Tahiti. I also
have some official work to do since it is nearly Easter. I have to
forward all our flight itineries, our boat details etc to Tahiti in
order to comply with officoal regulations and expediate our arrival
procedures there.
Have a most wonderful Easter weekend and will hopefully relay some of
the experiences my crew enjoyed ashore. Until then, hang ten, it is
Easter weekend.
Captain's orders
Fatu Hiva welcomes us
How does one describe seeing land for the first time in a month, edged
out on the horizon with the moon casting her magic spell on the already
magic scene ahead of us. And being nearly full moon, as the moon was
starting to sink into the ocean the sun was starting to reveal the first
signs of a brand new day. At exactly 05:55 we had our anchor secured.
The whole experience approaching the island in the early morning hours ,
to watch the island growing bigger and bigger, the smell of straw or
driftwood, difficult to pinpoint it exactly. This is why I love arriving
at first light, a fairly broad term when the moonbeams pave the way
towards your destination. I can never tire of this feeling, this
awestruck numbness in face of such beauty. Around me there are towering
cliffs covered in lush green vegetation. To the left, to the right, and
when I look straight ahead of me ever deepening layers of cliffs upon
cliffs. I think the best artists to capture this are the Japanese
watercolour paintings depicted scenes like this. A feeling of serenity,
of majesty, of untold beauty.
out on the horizon with the moon casting her magic spell on the already
magic scene ahead of us. And being nearly full moon, as the moon was
starting to sink into the ocean the sun was starting to reveal the first
signs of a brand new day. At exactly 05:55 we had our anchor secured.
The whole experience approaching the island in the early morning hours ,
to watch the island growing bigger and bigger, the smell of straw or
driftwood, difficult to pinpoint it exactly. This is why I love arriving
at first light, a fairly broad term when the moonbeams pave the way
towards your destination. I can never tire of this feeling, this
awestruck numbness in face of such beauty. Around me there are towering
cliffs covered in lush green vegetation. To the left, to the right, and
when I look straight ahead of me ever deepening layers of cliffs upon
cliffs. I think the best artists to capture this are the Japanese
watercolour paintings depicted scenes like this. A feeling of serenity,
of majesty, of untold beauty.
There are two anchorages at Fatu Hiva and I must have anchored at the
anchorage further west when I was here last five years ago. I was
surprised when a few dim lights here was visible as we approached our
approached our anchorage. There are two othe r yachts here and I
dropped anchor close to the yacht that was lying closest to shore. A few
small fishing vessels are also tied to a few bouys and I had to take
extra care finding the right spot to drop our anchor. After a few
re-adjustments I was happy we tied on the bridle, filled in our log book
and switvched the instruments off. We have arrived. It looked like we
will have to swim ashore and Eduard proceeded to cook some Jungle Oats
as it would take some effort to get ashore, maybe a ten minute swim, and
figured the extra energy would come in handy. By 7am the boys were
ready, a few things wrapped in plastic and time to go and explore a bit.
I opted to stay on the boat, making the excuse that someone has to watch
the boat. Eduard and Steven had just jumped in when the yacht ahead of
us asked if they wanted a lift ashore, which was gracefully acceted.
While the other boat was getting ready the two swam to the tender or
rubber duck or dinghy, whatever you want to call it. Nick was still
aboard getting himself ready for the swim ashore and he was fetched off
our boat.
You may wonder why I opted to stay aboard the boat when paradise was
right here all around me. Sometimes I look at all the beauty around me
and get scared that I may loose myself in it. Perhaps I feel unworthy of
such blessings of stepping on such sacred land. Perhaps I am too
attached to the boat I am on. Perhaps I want some time just by myself. I
have travelled far and wide, and this is without any doubt one of the
most beautiful places on our planet. And I just like to sit on my boat
and look at it, take it in , have a moment. I don't expect anyone to
understand who I am, and what I am. neither do I expect anyone to follow
the path I am on. We all walk our own paths. Am I mad to be like this?
Maybe. Am I certifiable? Certainly. Have I been at sea too long? Can't
be. Anyways, our position is Fatu Hiva, I asked the boys to be back at
noon so we can experience an atholl or two on our way to Tahiti. I also
have some official work to do since it is nearly Easter. I have to
forward all our flight itineries, our boat details etc to Tahiti in
order to comply with officoal regulations and expediate our arrival
procedures there.
Have a most wonderful Easter weekend and will hopefully relay some of
the experiences my crew enjoyed ashore. Until then, hang ten, it is
Easter weekend.
Captain's orders
Fatu Hiva welcomes us
How does one describe seeing land for the first time in a month, edged
out on the horizon with the moon casting her magic spell on the already
magic scene ahead of us. And being nearly full moon, as the moon was
starting to sink into the ocean the sun was starting to reveal the first
signs of a brand new day. At exactly 05:55 we had our anchor secured.
The whole experience approaching the island in the early morning hours ,
to watch the island growing bigger and bigger, the smell of straw or
driftwood, difficult to pinpoint it exactly. This is why I love arriving
at first light, a fairly broad term when the moonbeams pave the way
towards your destination. I can never tire of this feeling, this
awestruck numbness in face of such beauty. Around me there are towering
cliffs covered in lush green vegetation. To the left, to the right, and
when I look straight ahead of me ever deepening layers of cliffs upon
cliffs. I think the best artists to capture this are the Japanese
watercolour paintings depicted scenes like this. A feeling of serenity,
of majesty, of untold beauty.
out on the horizon with the moon casting her magic spell on the already
magic scene ahead of us. And being nearly full moon, as the moon was
starting to sink into the ocean the sun was starting to reveal the first
signs of a brand new day. At exactly 05:55 we had our anchor secured.
The whole experience approaching the island in the early morning hours ,
to watch the island growing bigger and bigger, the smell of straw or
driftwood, difficult to pinpoint it exactly. This is why I love arriving
at first light, a fairly broad term when the moonbeams pave the way
towards your destination. I can never tire of this feeling, this
awestruck numbness in face of such beauty. Around me there are towering
cliffs covered in lush green vegetation. To the left, to the right, and
when I look straight ahead of me ever deepening layers of cliffs upon
cliffs. I think the best artists to capture this are the Japanese
watercolour paintings depicted scenes like this. A feeling of serenity,
of majesty, of untold beauty.
There are two anchorages at Fatu Hiva and I must have anchored at the
anchorage further west when I was here last five years ago. I was
surprised when a few dim lights here was visible as we approached our
approached our anchorage. There are two othe r yachts here and I
dropped anchor close to the yacht that was lying closest to shore. A few
small fishing vessels are also tied to a few bouys and I had to take
extra care finding the right spot to drop our anchor. After a few
re-adjustments I was happy we tied on the bridle, filled in our log book
and switvched the instruments off. We have arrived. It looked like we
will have to swim ashore and Eduard proceeded to cook some Jungle Oats
as it would take some effort to get ashore, maybe a ten minute swim, and
figured the extra energy would come in handy. By 7am the boys were
ready, a few things wrapped in plastic and time to go and explore a bit.
I opted to stay on the boat, making the excuse that someone has to watch
the boat. Eduard and Steven had just jumped in when the yacht ahead of
us asked if they wanted a lift ashore, which was gracefully acceted.
While the other boat was getting ready the two swam to the tender or
rubber duck or dinghy, whatever you want to call it. Nick was still
aboard getting himself ready for the swim ashore and he was fetched off
our boat.
You may wonder why I opted to stay aboard the boat when paradise was
right here all around me. Sometimes I look at all the beauty around me
and get scared that I may loose myself in it. Perhaps I feel unworthy of
such blessings of stepping on such sacred land. Perhaps I am too
attached to the boat I am on. Perhaps I want some time just by myself. I
have travelled far and wide, and this is without any doubt one of the
most beautiful places on our planet. And I just like to sit on my boat
and look at it, take it in , have a moment. I don't expect anyone to
understand who I am, and what I am. neither do I expect anyone to follow
the path I am on. We all walk our own paths. Am I mad to be like this?
Maybe. Am I certifiable? Certainly. Have I been at sea too long? Can't
be. Anyways, our position is Fatu Hiva, I asked the boys to be back at
noon so we can experience an atholl or two on our way to Tahiti. I also
have some official work to do since it is nearly Easter. I have to
forward all our flight itineries, our boat details etc to Tahiti in
order to comply with officoal regulations and expediate our arrival
procedures there.
Have a most wonderful Easter weekend and will hopefully relay some of
the experiences my crew enjoyed ashore. Until then, hang ten, it is
Easter weekend.
Captain's orders
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
Sometimes you have to fight
Yesterday the temperature soared to an early 35*C and one could feel the
heatwaves rolling over you even in the shade of ones cabin with the fan
on full blast. Hand in hand with that always comes rain later on,
immense heat causing a lot of condensation formning clouds that will get
to heavy to hold the their load and spoil it at some time as the
temperature cools down again. One does not have to be a prophet to
predict these things, just observant. And as expected, at about 8pm last
night the rain came down in buckets as a bank of dark clouds moved over
us. The cooling effect of the rain is always exhilirating on these
sweltering hot days. This morning at sunrise the sky was covered with
low grey coulds all around, but an hour or two later they have been
evaporated again by the sun and now we have scattered clouds everywhere,
which I am sure will gang up again tonight and rain on us. I expected to
see cumulus nimbus clouds, the huge towering clouds which flattens out
at the top in an anvil shape as it meets the cool stratosphere. Thunder
and lightning and heavy rains can always be expected when they are
present, but so far none of those. The squalls we had last night was
very gentle, only generating winds of up to 10kts. The cumulus nimbus
clouds normally whacks you with winds at 30kts+.
heatwaves rolling over you even in the shade of ones cabin with the fan
on full blast. Hand in hand with that always comes rain later on,
immense heat causing a lot of condensation formning clouds that will get
to heavy to hold the their load and spoil it at some time as the
temperature cools down again. One does not have to be a prophet to
predict these things, just observant. And as expected, at about 8pm last
night the rain came down in buckets as a bank of dark clouds moved over
us. The cooling effect of the rain is always exhilirating on these
sweltering hot days. This morning at sunrise the sky was covered with
low grey coulds all around, but an hour or two later they have been
evaporated again by the sun and now we have scattered clouds everywhere,
which I am sure will gang up again tonight and rain on us. I expected to
see cumulus nimbus clouds, the huge towering clouds which flattens out
at the top in an anvil shape as it meets the cool stratosphere. Thunder
and lightning and heavy rains can always be expected when they are
present, but so far none of those. The squalls we had last night was
very gentle, only generating winds of up to 10kts. The cumulus nimbus
clouds normally whacks you with winds at 30kts+.
In severe cases you also get hail the size of gholfballs trying to take
you out, ask me, I've been there. In that case we were trapped between
two warring factions with the wind exploding on us at 60 kts with our
sails still up. Too late to turn around in case we break the mast or
flip the boat I had to run with the wind howling in my ears, both motors
at full throttle to take some pressure of the sails. The storm was
relentless and I was at the edge of my physical and mental abilities to
control the boat. The language I used at that stage is not fit for
publishing on any sailing blog.... It was in the middle of the night
with zero visibility and I did not even had time to think that things
couldn't get worse when it got worse. Just wearing shorts I got pelted
with these gholfball sized hailstones. First one on my foot, then my
head and the noise was deafening as nature unleashed her full fury on
me. I normally prefer to go with the flow and roll with the punches
under these severe storm conditions, but at times you have to stand up
and fight with everything you have in you. Amidst these tempestuous
conditions my daughter's face appeared to me, smiling, and that gave me
the supernatural strength that was required to get us through.
Back to the sunny Pacific where we have absolutely no wind around us,
Fatu Hiva under 100nm ahead of us, and the prospect of seeing land again
for the first time in nearly a month. There are no shops there and we
are purely stopping for goodness sake. I wonder if you have any idea
what is like to not see land for so long, how it feels to set foot on
land again, to smell the earth, the trees, to see the colours of the
tropical paradise plants after only really seeing blue in all her
different moods. All I can say and I am only speaking for myself, is
that it makes a deeper than deep impression on you, leaves you in awe,
makes you aware of the sacredness that I sometimes forget and sometimes
just take for granted. I hope my crew will also have a meaningfull
experience, that they will be touched, be moved and be changed forever.
That is all I can hope for. Then I would consider this trip successful.
Our position at 10am our time is 10*15'S/136*46'W. We are timing our
arrival at Fatu Hiva for first light tomorrow morning, and then leave
again at about noon to get to our next destination also early morning. I
have looked at the weather etc and have decided that I may cut through
the atholls a bit, the scenery is also breathtaking, but we won't stop.
There is an element of danger going through these atholls but I have
been here before and won't take any changes. So from here on it is a few
short hops and we should be tied up in Papeete, Tahiti on Tuesday
morning just after the Easter Weekend.
Hope you are having a good time wherever you are and whatever you are
planning for the weekend ahead.
Paul
Tuesday, April 3, 2012
Less than 1000nm to go today
Slowly but surely we are making our way to Fatu Hiva. No wind to assist
us and we are motoring, timing our arrival there for first light. I am
smiling when I think how the boys on board will react when they see this
magnificent little island rising out of the sea with the rising of the
sun. I could go a little faster and arrive there at midnight, but have
decided to rather not. We will fill some of our water drums from a fresh
water stream that runs into the bay. It would be nice to have a littloe
extra water to wash our clothes and have a good shower to wash off all
the salty seadogness of the last few days. Eduard had a seashower
earlier today but was out in a flash. A bluebottle's tentacles was
wrapped around his arm and on his stomach. Steven was quickly on hand
with some meat tenderizer. Nick also had a sting a day or two ago, seems
the waters here have plenty of jellyfish. Eduard is 100%, he was quiet
for a while sitting outside and waiting for the pain to subside. It
normally takes about half an hour before the pain stops. My daughter is
also very familiar with blue bottles.On our trip to Belize three years
ago when she was 5 she got stung by a huge blue bottle on the back of
her knee. It still aches me when I think back of the pain she
experienced but soon she was treated and wrapped in a space blanket for
shock and fell asleep shortly afterwards. When she woke up she asked me
why Jesus makes bluebottles, and I had to explain a few things about
life to her.
us and we are motoring, timing our arrival there for first light. I am
smiling when I think how the boys on board will react when they see this
magnificent little island rising out of the sea with the rising of the
sun. I could go a little faster and arrive there at midnight, but have
decided to rather not. We will fill some of our water drums from a fresh
water stream that runs into the bay. It would be nice to have a littloe
extra water to wash our clothes and have a good shower to wash off all
the salty seadogness of the last few days. Eduard had a seashower
earlier today but was out in a flash. A bluebottle's tentacles was
wrapped around his arm and on his stomach. Steven was quickly on hand
with some meat tenderizer. Nick also had a sting a day or two ago, seems
the waters here have plenty of jellyfish. Eduard is 100%, he was quiet
for a while sitting outside and waiting for the pain to subside. It
normally takes about half an hour before the pain stops. My daughter is
also very familiar with blue bottles.On our trip to Belize three years
ago when she was 5 she got stung by a huge blue bottle on the back of
her knee. It still aches me when I think back of the pain she
experienced but soon she was treated and wrapped in a space blanket for
shock and fell asleep shortly afterwards. When she woke up she asked me
why Jesus makes bluebottles, and I had to explain a few things about
life to her.
From Fatu Hiva it is a quick four days to Tahiti and we will arrive on
the 10th, easy peasy. I have made contact with the base manager there
and justb got a reply that we will do handover on the 12th.I will have
to send our etickets and other boat details by Friday as required by
immigration and customs, and take it from there. Things are coming to an
end rapidly and we have already started preparing the boat for our
handover inspection. Once we are there we definately don't want to spend
cleaning and shining the boat. Rather enjoy the few days we have there
doing some sightseeing etc.
Nautical term today is 'Sold Down the River'. Fromthe perpetual threat
held against slaves working in areas bordering the Northern States of
America. If they misbehaved or proved lazy, they could be sold down the
river9the Mississippi) to work in the soiuthern sugar plantations. From
this comes the notion of cheated, hoodwinked,taken for a ride. Our
postion at 6am our time, 5pm SA time and UTC -9 now was
09*50'S/134*17'W. We are 260nm from Fatu Hiva and 1030nm from Tahiti.
Which means that today we will go under the 1000nm mark to our final
destination.
Take good care
Paul
Monday, April 2, 2012
I don't hate Mondays
My watch started at midnight our time and Nick takes over three hours
later. Outside the waxing moon is casting her magic silver spell over
the waters around us and our ship looks like a phantom ship. A few
ghostly clouds are also floating around and the stars are making a
feeble attempt to outshine the moon which is now a 3/4 moon. Looks like
we will arrive at Fatu Hiva on the full moon, perhaps we will have a
little full moon party on the island. If we were here a hundred years
earlier we may have witnessed a scene that played out at these islands
quite often. A dugout cano with scary war monsters carved into them and
carrying their load of tattooed men. Tattoos originated in these islands
and the men had their whole bodies tatooed, from their faces to their
toes. And they would be invading islands killing every person they could
find and collect their skulls as treasures. The All Black's are famous
for their haka amonst other things. This war cry is quite descriptive if
you translate the words. One of the sentences tells you that the flesh
of your grandfather is still stuck in my teeth. So perhaps we shoulkd
paint our faces with charcoal and go and scare the living daylights out
of the small group of kids on the island. Pranks like this has a nasty
way of backfiring and then we will be running for our yacht safely at
anchor in the bay. Can you see what happens when one has been at sea for
three months; the full moon drives one lunatic. These Moon days or
Mondays, love them. I once visited a museum in Honiara where these type
of atrocities were properly depicted with photos of real island tribes
that still carried out these raids a hundred years ago. Honiara is a
small island in Papua New Guinea, also known as The Rim of Fire.
later. Outside the waxing moon is casting her magic silver spell over
the waters around us and our ship looks like a phantom ship. A few
ghostly clouds are also floating around and the stars are making a
feeble attempt to outshine the moon which is now a 3/4 moon. Looks like
we will arrive at Fatu Hiva on the full moon, perhaps we will have a
little full moon party on the island. If we were here a hundred years
earlier we may have witnessed a scene that played out at these islands
quite often. A dugout cano with scary war monsters carved into them and
carrying their load of tattooed men. Tattoos originated in these islands
and the men had their whole bodies tatooed, from their faces to their
toes. And they would be invading islands killing every person they could
find and collect their skulls as treasures. The All Black's are famous
for their haka amonst other things. This war cry is quite descriptive if
you translate the words. One of the sentences tells you that the flesh
of your grandfather is still stuck in my teeth. So perhaps we shoulkd
paint our faces with charcoal and go and scare the living daylights out
of the small group of kids on the island. Pranks like this has a nasty
way of backfiring and then we will be running for our yacht safely at
anchor in the bay. Can you see what happens when one has been at sea for
three months; the full moon drives one lunatic. These Moon days or
Mondays, love them. I once visited a museum in Honiara where these type
of atrocities were properly depicted with photos of real island tribes
that still carried out these raids a hundred years ago. Honiara is a
small island in Papua New Guinea, also known as The Rim of Fire.
The wind has faded on us a bit as predicted and we are motorsailing. No
problem as we have more than enough diesel left to motor all the way to
Tahiti if we want to. We only have to maintain an average of six knots
to arrive at Tahiti on the 10th of this months and easy to do for us.
Which means there is only eight days left before this journey comes to
an end. It is amazing how one adapts to the slower pace out here and how
one day just flows into the next, and before you know it, three months
has gone behind you. But it is not time to sit and contemplate yet, we
are still 1200nm from Tahiti, about 1/10th of our journey left over. The
little stop at Fatu Hiva is just to connect a bit with Gaia or Mother
Earth again befor e we get to Tahiti. Don't want to arrive at Tahiti all
wild, wide-eyed and bushy tailed as if we haven't seen land for 30
days, that could be slightly disturbing to the people there. Anyways,
our position currently is 09*16'S/131*25'W.
A short nautical term is to 'Miss the Boat'. To miss the liberty boat
which carried sailors returning from shore leave out to there ships.
Hence to miss an opportunity.
Hope you have a great day and an equally great week ahead.
Capt. Paul
Sunday, April 1, 2012
Fools for love
April 1st. Traditionally April Fool's day, wonder how that one started.
It is also the day my parents got married 51 years ago on 01/04/1961.
They lived through the 40's,the 50's, the 60's and onwards. Daddy was a
ducktail, Triumph Bonneville motorcycle and a lumber jacket with a tiger
on the back, mamma was a beauty queen. Rebels for sure, and look where
it got them. They have a right to say back in the day, these youngsters
today that uses that term have no idea what it means. I am proud beyond
words of their achievement, for my mom putting up with my dad so long
and for my dad putting up with my mom for so long. Today I announce them
saints, St.Christoffel and St.Caterina. Two April fools that got married
and somehow kept it together for so long, fools for love. Mom and dad,
you know I love you both endlessly, respect you both completely, admire
you both shamelessly.I thank you from all of me for your unwavering love
towards me and my younger brother, Arnold. I know we will both agree
that we have been blessed by having the best parents one could wish for,
and our wish for the two of you is continued health. You have taught us
that old age is not for sissy's, amongst many other things you have
taught us. WE SALUTE YOU.
It is also the day my parents got married 51 years ago on 01/04/1961.
They lived through the 40's,the 50's, the 60's and onwards. Daddy was a
ducktail, Triumph Bonneville motorcycle and a lumber jacket with a tiger
on the back, mamma was a beauty queen. Rebels for sure, and look where
it got them. They have a right to say back in the day, these youngsters
today that uses that term have no idea what it means. I am proud beyond
words of their achievement, for my mom putting up with my dad so long
and for my dad putting up with my mom for so long. Today I announce them
saints, St.Christoffel and St.Caterina. Two April fools that got married
and somehow kept it together for so long, fools for love. Mom and dad,
you know I love you both endlessly, respect you both completely, admire
you both shamelessly.I thank you from all of me for your unwavering love
towards me and my younger brother, Arnold. I know we will both agree
that we have been blessed by having the best parents one could wish for,
and our wish for the two of you is continued health. You have taught us
that old age is not for sissy's, amongst many other things you have
taught us. WE SALUTE YOU.
It is going well with us out here on the Pacific. Our journey is drawing
to an end rapidly. Strong winds are pushing us ever faster and we are
only three days away from Fatu Hiva. From there another 5 days to Tahiti
which will mark exactly three months on the ocean. We had a little stop
every two weeks along the way, but the last leg was a month without
seeing land. You can imagine how the boys on board,myself included, will
appreciate land again once we set foot on it. I am used to it, extended
periods at sea and then making landfall. I know how it effects me. It is
in my blood and in my soul. Two of my crew have never experienced this
before, and they will soon find out that the sea is a most jealous lady.
They will be back on land for a few weeks and then the longing for the
wide open spaces will return.
With the stronger weather I was immensily proud of how the boys handled
themselves. I felt the wind picking up and the boat going faster and
faster. I got up to go and check out the situation and there was Nick
calmly and smoothly turning the boat a bit more away from the wind,
shadowing our headsail and preceded furling it in a bit to balance the
sails with the sea state and the wind speed. All I could say to him was
very well done. I went back to my cabin with a big smile on my face
knowing that he has learned a few things on this trip, including some
sailing skills. Eduard is doing just as well, taking charge of the
vessel and doing what needs to be done when he is on watch, always
willing and able. Steven is suffering a bit from what I think is a
muscle injury in his shoulder. He has expressed that he is mightily
looking forward to land again and feels he has had enough of the ocean
for now. He has been accumalating nearly 30 000 nm's over the last few
months but this has been a long trip, twice as long as our average
6000nm trips. He has weathered some storms with me and we both know that
he is ready to spread his wings a bit. He is also without a doubt one of
the best first mates I have ever had. After this delivery he will be
seeking a position on a superyacht and work his way up from there. If a
delivery comes his way he will take that as well. I am not saying cheers
yet, just saying that the boy has plans, experience and abilities that
will bode well for him in the future and I wish him only the very best.
For myself, I am also taking a bit of a break after this delivery. Three
months to spend with my wife and daughter and get a feel for what its
like living on land again. Become a part of their lives for a while and
looking greatly forward to see what the future holds for us. Our
position now at 8am by us and 6pm in SA is 08*46'S/129*42'W. We are
about 500nm from Fatu Hiva and about 1300nm from Tahiti. With the
excellent speed we are doing it is very likely that we will arrive at
Fatu Hiva in three days time and four days later at Tahiti. That will be
an amazing feat to arrive there at the 8th of April which was my ETA
when we started this trip three months ago. We only have to maintain an
average of 7.5 kts to achieve this and considering the amount of diesel
we have we may just crack it.
Hope you had an awesome weekend.
Paul, thoroughly pacified
Saturday, March 31, 2012
Blue sunrays
In the background, towards the east, huge streaks of blue sunrays are
colouring the morning skies. Soft shades of pastel on the palette as the
night gently makes way for the day. I wish I had words to describe our
360* view out here but my words pale in comparison as the scenery
changes and the streaks of clouds behind us is now being set on fire by
the rising sun. And the clouds ahead of us that was shrouded in hues of
grey is also now blushing at the beauty of the sun. Dramatic scenes are
being performed by the clouds all around us, whisperings of a love once
had, a love once lost,a love once found. I can see how the Greeks could
spin their woeful tales of the pathos of it all. The endless cycle of
life and death. I am at a crossroads here. Should I mediate a poem right
here and now, open myself to the Muse and just record what I hear and
what I see ? Pure poetry I guess is not everyones cup of tea so I shall
doso but only in private.
colouring the morning skies. Soft shades of pastel on the palette as the
night gently makes way for the day. I wish I had words to describe our
360* view out here but my words pale in comparison as the scenery
changes and the streaks of clouds behind us is now being set on fire by
the rising sun. And the clouds ahead of us that was shrouded in hues of
grey is also now blushing at the beauty of the sun. Dramatic scenes are
being performed by the clouds all around us, whisperings of a love once
had, a love once lost,a love once found. I can see how the Greeks could
spin their woeful tales of the pathos of it all. The endless cycle of
life and death. I am at a crossroads here. Should I mediate a poem right
here and now, open myself to the Muse and just record what I hear and
what I see ? Pure poetry I guess is not everyones cup of tea so I shall
doso but only in private.
On with the show. The wind has been very kind to us and we are making
way even better than expected. And the bonus is that we have two tanks
nearly full of diesel should we run out of wind. To make our ETA in
Tahiti we have to maintain a very easy and do-able 6kts, we are in fact
sailing and maintaining a much faster speed and will perhaps even be
able to cut another day from our ETA. At the moment it looks like we
will be arriving at Tahiti on the 10th of April. And that includes a
stop at Fatu Hiva for a few hours and time our arrival at Tahiti for an
early morning entrance. We have also received news that our journey will
probably terminate here and not Raiatea as mentioned before. Suits us
better as we then fly straight from Tahiti, and won't have to fly a
small hop from Raiatea back to Tahiti. Distance to Fatu Hiva is 700nm
and from there to Tahiti 800nm. Can you believe it, eleven more days and
the trip will be over, but it ain't over yet. In fact, it is not over
until the fat lady sings another beautiful nautical slice of history.
But our expression, the first one in a while, is 'Figure Head'. Nominal
leader with no real power but large in the public eye. The word is taken
from the carved and ornamental figure which was carried at the stem of
sailing ships. Primarily for decoration, figureheads also expressed the
belief that a ship was a living thing(as I do), and needed someone up
front with eyes to see where it was going; ships from the Mediterranean
and China had eyes painted on each bow. Symbolism too played a part and
throughout the ages there have been an assortment of fierce and fast
animals of which lions were probably the most common. About the time of
the fast clipper ships it was felt that something more in keeping with
their slender lines was required and the bare-breasted lady became
fashionable. She has probably remained the number one choice ever since
and not least because of a convenient superstition which has it that
topless ladies calm the stormy seas.
Our position at 7am our time is 07*46'S/126*56'W. I received calls from
both the yachts behind me and they are also reporting excellent winds,
which in turn means more good winds coming our way. They were a bit
stressed for a while as they had no wind and running low on fuel. They
requested my assistance with checking the weather for them as they don't
have the facilities we have on board, and our weather guru back home had
the weather for the in no time at all, thanks mom. I was very happy to
relay the good news to them that their worries should be over in 24hrs.
If that was not the case I am not sure what I would have advised them.
They are however not gaining on us but neither are they loosing ground,
staying at a steady 800nm astern. Which is darn good as they are on the
slower and smaller 39's and we are on the faster 46. So well done to the
boys behind.
Hope you are having a day and a half.
Paul
Friday, March 30, 2012
Sushimi twice a day
What a day we had. Firstly,good winds followed the red sunset, hence the
saying that a red sunset at night is a sailor's delight. We have now
turned straight towards Fatu Hiva and have the wind on the beam, doing
excellent speed. When the wind drops a bit we motorsail and have more
than enough diesel to motor all the way if we had to. This is the result
of saving diesel whenever we could, using the sails to their max, day
and night, saving power when and wherever we could. Now we have some
peace of mind that we will make it without having to worry about our
diesel, a great feeling to have as opposed to not being sure whether the
diesel will run out or not.
saying that a red sunset at night is a sailor's delight. We have now
turned straight towards Fatu Hiva and have the wind on the beam, doing
excellent speed. When the wind drops a bit we motorsail and have more
than enough diesel to motor all the way if we had to. This is the result
of saving diesel whenever we could, using the sails to their max, day
and night, saving power when and wherever we could. Now we have some
peace of mind that we will make it without having to worry about our
diesel, a great feeling to have as opposed to not being sure whether the
diesel will run out or not.
T'was my turn to do supper today. For breakfast we all had a decent
portion of Jungle Oats, Steven on his morning watch prepared some
sushimi which we had for brunch, for lunch I fried some spicy fish
nuggets and served with spicy rice and peas mixed in, and beetroot salad
to finish it off. For desert we enjoyed cherry and mango jelly. Supper
was more sushimi and for desert a bowl of popcorn each. We now regret
having released the second bonny we caught yesterday as our first bonny
is no more. The conditions are great though, the moon sitting just right
and the next day or two should produce some fish, dorado if we could
choose, but any fish will be greatly appreciated and thoroughly enjoyed.
The chess saga continues. Yesterday Nick was the champion with 2 games
to 1 and today I reclaimed the throne with 3 games to 1. Once again most
of the games were really balanced on a knife edge, and one wrong move
and the tables could be turned. Eduard reckons once we have practised
enough we can take him on, we will keep you posted. This is such a game
of patience, and once you are on a roll you easily slip into complacency
feeling invincible. The next moment you loose your queen and then the
trouble begins. Quick moves often land you in dire straights. Sometimes
all out attact also works, keeping your opponent on the defensive. I
once read a Chinese tail of a young man that walked into a cave where
two elders were engaged in a game of chess. He left his axe outside and
when the game was finished he walked out again and the wooden handle of
his axe had turned to dust and a hundred years had passed. More of a
time warp tale and similar to the fairy dances etc.
Our position at 5am here by us and 3pm in SA is 06*55'S/124*19'W. 870nm
from Fatu Hiva and looking immensily forward to set foot on land again,
or an island in our case. I trust that you will have a fantastic
weekend.
Salute
Paul
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Fire in the sky
Last night was probably one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever
seen on the ocean. The clouds earlier on resembled the wavy pattern of
the water, so much so that I even took a few pictures of these unusual
formations. And when the sun started setting,the sky was set alight in
all shades of red, orange, yellow, purple, pink and a few other colours
inbetween that defies description. The moon was also sitting right above
us, an ideal position for fishing. I mentioned this to Eduard and Nick
that it is a scientifically proven fact that fish feed mostly when the
moon is right above or below them, and also when the moon is just
setting or rising.Whether in dams or rivers or oceans, the feeding
patterns are the same.
seen on the ocean. The clouds earlier on resembled the wavy pattern of
the water, so much so that I even took a few pictures of these unusual
formations. And when the sun started setting,the sky was set alight in
all shades of red, orange, yellow, purple, pink and a few other colours
inbetween that defies description. The moon was also sitting right above
us, an ideal position for fishing. I mentioned this to Eduard and Nick
that it is a scientifically proven fact that fish feed mostly when the
moon is right above or below them, and also when the moon is just
setting or rising.Whether in dams or rivers or oceans, the feeding
patterns are the same.
We had just finished a delicious supper, fish cakes that Nick made from
tinned pilchards and sweet potato, when the first bonny whacked our
lure. It was the biggest bonny I have seen and trying to hold him down I
think Steven's teeth must have rattled a bit. It is like trying to hold
down a jackhammer and one's fingers gets thoroughly bruised between the
tail and the deck. Tied a string to the tail, made a few incissions to
assist in bleeding and dragged the bonny backwards through the water.
Soon afterwards she was being processed by Nick, stored in a jiffy in
the freezer and later today we will have sushimi. Shortly afterwards we
landed another big bonny but released it again. We kept the lure out
hoping for a dorado, but very grateful for the bonny we got.
Just a few more days and we will drop anchor and go and explore Fatu
Hiva for a few hours, really just go and hug a few trees,smeelthe earth,
pick a coconut or two, swim a bit in a freshwater stream. It's been
nearly a month since we saw land, and Fatu Hiva is one of the most
spectacular places on the planet. 1000nm to this little piece of
paradiseand then the last 800nm to Tahiti where we will clear customs
etc before taking the boat to Raiatea Island where she will be based.
That is 120nm from Tahiti and what a pleasure it will be to navigate
through these beyond beautiful places. Already my mind is set on taking
extra care towards the end of our journey, to be extra vigilant. Our
position is 06*36'S/122*50'W. The week is nearly over again, where does
time go?
Capt. Paul
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
Standing by on one six
Today we will cross the 2000nm mark to Tahiti according to the
signboards floating out here on the water. Not much traffic for the last
few days, Eduard had just spotted a ship but it was just a glimpse of
the port light. The wind has been fading a bit on us as we expected, and
we are motoring maintaining 6kts. At our current speed we should arrive
at Tahiti at about 11pm on the 10th of April. Our plan is thus to stop
at Fatu Hiva and spend a few hours there which will allow us an early
morning entry into Tahiti on the 11th. We are also stopping to shake off
a full month on the water since we left Panama. We could stop at one of
the more populated islands as well to get some water etc but at this
stage the plan is to push on through to Papeete, the capital of Tahiti.
signboards floating out here on the water. Not much traffic for the last
few days, Eduard had just spotted a ship but it was just a glimpse of
the port light. The wind has been fading a bit on us as we expected, and
we are motoring maintaining 6kts. At our current speed we should arrive
at Tahiti at about 11pm on the 10th of April. Our plan is thus to stop
at Fatu Hiva and spend a few hours there which will allow us an early
morning entry into Tahiti on the 11th. We are also stopping to shake off
a full month on the water since we left Panama. We could stop at one of
the more populated islands as well to get some water etc but at this
stage the plan is to push on through to Papeete, the capital of Tahiti.
Nick and myself decanted 500ltrs of diesel into our tanks and the sun
nailed us big time. One thinks one will just quickly set up the pipes
and run for shade again,but every now and then you spend a little longer
in the sun than planned. We pushed on through however and our tanks are
full, more than enough to motor the last 2000nm should we have to. We
are expecting a bit of wind again in two or three days time so all good
this side. Afterwards we had a nice swim and seashower to cool down
somewhat and also wash the bit of diesel off that inevitably always
spills a little on one as we were decanting out of 250ltr drums. After
nearly three months at sea My hair was getting a bit irritatingly long
and in my eyes. Nick volunteered to trim it a bit and did a splendid
job. Expressions For Hair in Constantia Village is apparently where he
gets his inspiration from. Check out there website or pay them a
visit.If he can do this well out here with just a pair of scissors,
imagine what the artists can do for you in their fully equipped studio.
I will certainly make a turn there when I am back in Cape Town for my
next delivery.
The last few days Eduard, Nick and myself have been involved in epic
battles on the chess board. Nick is leading Eduard 4/0 and I am ahead of
Nick 6/3. Eduard and myself haven't gone to battle yet. The games are
very evenly matched, sometimes ending in a draw. The scores don't really
reflect at all how extremely close these matches are contested. Just one
little slip of concentration and the downwards spiral begins. Sometimes
one is well ahead, having a feast with your opponents pieces, and all of
a sudden the tables are turned. Overconfidence also sometimes gets the
better of one, with dire results.
We are now all enjoying a big bowl of Jungle Oats every morning for
breakfast. Copious amounts of Illovo Maple syrup and YumYum peanut
butter and a dash of milk all mixed together really fills our tummies
with goodness. Now that we are no longer smoking our appetites are back
and can actually taste for a change what we are eating. Still not
completely over it, it is really a tough habit to break. But easy enough
out here with no tobacco and nowhere to get some for a while. I
sincerely hope we won't forget how enslaved we were to this addiction
and will abstain from it completely in the feature. Why on earth one
smokes, compromises one's health and waste your money I have no idea. I
am just trying to convince myself, to find a way not to fall into the
habit again. My greatest respect for those who have quitted smoking.
Easy enough to stop because we ran out of tobacco, but to stop while you
have or can get tobacco, well I don't know.
Our position at 9pm on the 27th of April was 06*39'S/118*50'W. We are
now 10 hrs behind SA time and UTC - 8. Distance to Fatu Hiva 1200nm and
Tahiti is 800nm further down the line. In two weeks time we should have
our mission completed, but lots can still happen in the interem. We may
even catch a fish.
Take good care
Capt Paul, as always standing by on one six
Monday, March 26, 2012
The sky is falling
As the night set in, the twilight zone revealed the tiniest little
slither of moon, set between Venus and Jupiter from our point of view.
An hour or so later the moon dissapeared on our western horizon and all
the stars came out to play. As if to celebrate the new moon, some of
them were having such a great time that they were falling all over the
place, leaving long streaks of light tails behind them. Falling stars,
shooting stars, disastars, super novas, they were all having a ball.
March is nearly over, and those who survived the equinox, well done, the
next one is in September. March and September are known to be the two
most hectic months of the year, ask anybody that works at the ER.
slither of moon, set between Venus and Jupiter from our point of view.
An hour or so later the moon dissapeared on our western horizon and all
the stars came out to play. As if to celebrate the new moon, some of
them were having such a great time that they were falling all over the
place, leaving long streaks of light tails behind them. Falling stars,
shooting stars, disastars, super novas, they were all having a ball.
March is nearly over, and those who survived the equinox, well done, the
next one is in September. March and September are known to be the two
most hectic months of the year, ask anybody that works at the ER.
On our side, our progress is greatly enhanced by excellent current and
favourable winds. This is now the 4th day in a row that we are sailing,
throwing our twin headsails to the wind. On our sugar scoops at the back
we have a small algae forest flourishing and a little community of
barnacles having also taken residence there. The sugar scoops on a
catamaran is the back end of the two hulls that steps down to the water
level. Amazing to sit and watch these barnacles open and close, fanning
their tentacles in search of micro organisms to feed on. In a way it
makes it less sterile out here, having a little garden with live
creatures sharing the boat with us. At the end of the trip we shall
remove them, but for now, they are an example of the tenacity of life
and the will to survive. We haven't given them individual names yet, but
another week or so on the sea and in the sun I think we may just be in
the right frame of mind to do such a thing. I am already starting to
think that good names for our barnacle friends would be Boet, Bill,
Barries, Barney, Ben, Baptista and for the females Betty Davis,
Beatrice, Bonny, Blondie , so on and so forth.
Our position is 07*14'S/115*41'W. 2200nm to Tahiti. Wishing you a great
week ahead.
^^^
Sunday, March 25, 2012
A sunny Sunday on the Pacific
The small dorado we landed made a most welcome addition to our lately
usual supper consisting of soya beans. Nick prepared a pot of rice,cut
the dorado into small portions , fried it for awhile and added it to the
rice. Mixed veggies was also part of our fishpot and it turned out most
delectable. We have some packets of beetroot salad and this just added
that extra bit of magic to the meal. During supper we were sitting and
talking about our food supplies on board and the more we talked about it
the more we realized how much we do have on board. About 10kgs of Jungle
Oats for breakfast to start with. Quick and easy to make and adding
peanut butter of which we have industrial amounts of and maple syrup
which we have about four bottles of, we are sorted for breakfast, and
very tasty and healthy to boot. We can't serve bacon and eggs
anymore, and in the same way with what we have for lunch and supper, we
can't always get what we want, but we certainly get what we need.
usual supper consisting of soya beans. Nick prepared a pot of rice,cut
the dorado into small portions , fried it for awhile and added it to the
rice. Mixed veggies was also part of our fishpot and it turned out most
delectable. We have some packets of beetroot salad and this just added
that extra bit of magic to the meal. During supper we were sitting and
talking about our food supplies on board and the more we talked about it
the more we realized how much we do have on board. About 10kgs of Jungle
Oats for breakfast to start with. Quick and easy to make and adding
peanut butter of which we have industrial amounts of and maple syrup
which we have about four bottles of, we are sorted for breakfast, and
very tasty and healthy to boot. We can't serve bacon and eggs
anymore, and in the same way with what we have for lunch and supper, we
can't always get what we want, but we certainly get what we need.
Not smoking now for five days and things are getting better. Still a bit
of a craving when you wake up or after a meal, but we are winning the
battle. All of us are starting to work out a bit to get our bodies back
in shape a bit. I am hoping to take up kiteboarding when I get home and
that motivates me to get fit and stay fit, and not take up smoking
again. Inused to be a sport fanatic when I was younger and now it is
feeling really good to start the muscles working a bit. I use an elastic
band called Body Sculpture which I got at Sportman's Warehouse I
think, and I must say,it works for me, all the different muscles getting
stretched a bit. Stilllearning how to work all the muscles properly but
enjoying it nevertheless. Sitting on a yacht for three months with
hardly any exercise is bad enough. To do it year in and year out is no
good at all.
Not saying much else today, except that we are about two weeks away from
our destination. Busy getting all the official requirements lined up for
our entry into Tahiti. Customs, Immigration and Port Control will have to
be notified this week of our arrival, as well as our base at Raiatea
island about 120nm from Tahiti. We will first clear in at Tahiti and then
do the last bit of sailing to the base. It is a French territory and the
French are sometimes difficult when it gets to official protocol. But as
long as all our ducks are in a row, we should have no problem. Our psotion
at 3am our time is 07*21'S/111*45'W. The good weather predicted has just
started coming through an hour ago, but according to our latest weather
report, it won't stay with us as long as originally predicted. That is the
weather for you. Fortunately we have enough diesel to motor all the way to
Tahiti should it be necessary.
Have a serene Sunday and all the best for the week ahead.
Cpt. Paul
Saturday, March 24, 2012
Two days in a row
Yip, we have now been sailing for two days in a row. Tentatively at first, but ever so gently the wind and the current is
pushing us faster and faster. Started at just over 4 kts, crawled up to 5, then up to 6. And the best is yet to come. We
are expecting really good winds on the 25/26, and already we are doing well beyond what we expected. And to top it all, we
also landed our first dorado. A little baby one, but big enough to make an excellent meal mixed with rice and peas. It is
Nick's turn to cook tonight, so we shall see what he pulls out of the hat. It is also the first dorado Steven has seen since
he strted sailing with me nearly 30 000nm ago. We have landed some sizable tuna and big sailfish, but somehow dorado has
always eluded us. It is my favorite fish by far and have high hopes that we will catch an even bigger one soon.Then we can
have decent sized dorado fillets fried in butter. This little dorado is a veryn timely catch for us. Having soya beans a few
days in a row is starting to get a bit much, although we are eating healthy and making the most of it. The little dorado
though is a very welcome addition to our very healthy diet. And yes,it is the fourth day without tobacco and still the
craving for a cigarette pops up every now and then, but we are certainly not being edgy about it. On the contrary, we are
eating more. Steven baked a garlic bread today and made a pot of soup. It did not last very long and served as a late lunch
early supper. And for a late supper he made some delicious flapjacks. Strange order of events under normal circumstances but
convention out here does not carry much weight.
pushing us faster and faster. Started at just over 4 kts, crawled up to 5, then up to 6. And the best is yet to come. We
are expecting really good winds on the 25/26, and already we are doing well beyond what we expected. And to top it all, we
also landed our first dorado. A little baby one, but big enough to make an excellent meal mixed with rice and peas. It is
Nick's turn to cook tonight, so we shall see what he pulls out of the hat. It is also the first dorado Steven has seen since
he strted sailing with me nearly 30 000nm ago. We have landed some sizable tuna and big sailfish, but somehow dorado has
always eluded us. It is my favorite fish by far and have high hopes that we will catch an even bigger one soon.Then we can
have decent sized dorado fillets fried in butter. This little dorado is a veryn timely catch for us. Having soya beans a few
days in a row is starting to get a bit much, although we are eating healthy and making the most of it. The little dorado
though is a very welcome addition to our very healthy diet. And yes,it is the fourth day without tobacco and still the
craving for a cigarette pops up every now and then, but we are certainly not being edgy about it. On the contrary, we are
eating more. Steven baked a garlic bread today and made a pot of soup. It did not last very long and served as a late lunch
early supper. And for a late supper he made some delicious flapjacks. Strange order of events under normal circumstances but
convention out here does not carry much weight.
The nightskies are once again ablaze with stars dancing and pulsating each to their own beat, flashing their own colours.
Orion on his chariot is chasing Pleiades over the horizon inthis never ending quest to sink his arrow into the bull, behind
us the Southern Cross is showing us the four directions in case we get lost, and the Milky Way is as always a most awesome
highway through our galaxy. There is life out there, out here, beyond a shadow of a doubt. Not only life in different
dimensions, but also life as we know it. I have no interest in trying to convince you, you either know it or you don't. One
of my favorite shapes is spirals. You find them in hurricanes, all around the galaxy and also in your kitchen sink when you
let the water out. Energy is infinite, it will change shape and transform and evolve all the time, but in essence it never
ends. And your thoughts, your ideas, your feelings you project, are also forms of energy, and I wonder if you have any idea
how the ripple effect of your actions echoes throughout the universe. There is so much potential for harrmony, but we rather
feed our greed and fear our fate. We can sometimes be so very small and so very insecure. Totally self absorbed and
blindsided. I guess each to his or her or its own, our journeys are all unique, as unique as the snowflakes and as our
fingerprints. So yes, be free, be free to be the very best you can be.
Our position is currently 07*27'S/109*06'W and we are 1760nm from Fatu Hiva.
Hope you have a most wonderful weekend.
The Captain
Friday, March 23, 2012
Fridays are Fridays are Fridays
I don't care much for time and for days when we are out on the ocean for
extended periods of time, but Fridays still carries a little magic ring
to it. We have been sailing for the last 24hrs, an amazing experience
after motoring for nearly two weeks. Keeping a close eye on the weather,
using computer programs to show us where the currents are, and somehow
eventually start reaping the benefits when both current and wind comes
together. We are not sailing fast yet, in two days time we should be
hooking into really good sailing weather. At the moment we have our twin
headsails up and sailing at a leisurely 5.5 kts but slowly building
speed.
extended periods of time, but Fridays still carries a little magic ring
to it. We have been sailing for the last 24hrs, an amazing experience
after motoring for nearly two weeks. Keeping a close eye on the weather,
using computer programs to show us where the currents are, and somehow
eventually start reaping the benefits when both current and wind comes
together. We are not sailing fast yet, in two days time we should be
hooking into really good sailing weather. At the moment we have our twin
headsails up and sailing at a leisurely 5.5 kts but slowly building
speed.
A few fishing boats around at night, or rather easier to spot them at
night due to the bright lights and the loom they create on the horizon.
We tried some night fishing, tying a luminescent lure on but no luck.
Food on board is fine, but we are starting to run out of options. And
not smoking anymore, we eat quite a bit more. Interesting how we dealt
with the cravings and after three days, I think we are over it. Was not
easy, but we had no choice in the matter. Hope when we get to land again
we will remember how hard it was to quit and will think three times
before falling back into the habit again. We are also starting to work
out a bit more, doing exercises and getting back into shape, so all and
all many positive results from running out of tobacco. Our sense of
smell and taste is also returning, but our bodies will probably still
detoxify some. A slight headache was experienced but that is also over
now, drinking copious amounts of water to purify our bodies.
Our position at the moment is 07*24'S/107*35'W. We've sailed down to
07*39'S before we started coming up again as we were losing current.
This manouevre placed us in an excellent angle on the wind which is
straight from behind and we are now sailing due west. We are 1850nm from
Fatu Hiva where we may stop for a few hours to touch base again, and
2680nm from Tahiti. Still some distance to go, but we are getting there,
and hopefully will arrive there within the next three weeks. Really
depends on the wind, and as usual,only time will tell.
Hope you have a wonderful weekend.
Captain Paul
Thursday, March 22, 2012
The best things in life are free
After the turtle encounter, we surely hoped for some better conditions.
We having been moving down south looking for better current and wind and
have at last reached an area outside the doldrums. The wind is in the
right direction for us as predicted, but not enough to get us sailing at
all. Now and then we get a bit of sailable wind and we set our sails,
sail for a few hours and then the wind just fades on us again. The last
three days we only averaged about 100nm a day, only 60% of what we were
hoping for at the very least. By all accounts it looks like we will at
last get some real sailing weather on the 25/26th and will have to see
how far that will get us. It is trying times for us. No wind, no tobacco
but no ways we will allow this to get us down.
We having been moving down south looking for better current and wind and
have at last reached an area outside the doldrums. The wind is in the
right direction for us as predicted, but not enough to get us sailing at
all. Now and then we get a bit of sailable wind and we set our sails,
sail for a few hours and then the wind just fades on us again. The last
three days we only averaged about 100nm a day, only 60% of what we were
hoping for at the very least. By all accounts it looks like we will at
last get some real sailing weather on the 25/26th and will have to see
how far that will get us. It is trying times for us. No wind, no tobacco
but no ways we will allow this to get us down.
Everyday we seem to have a mix of rain, of sun, of wind, of calm. When
it rains, we catch the rainwater to fill our tanks, when the sun shines
some of us stay out of the sun and some of us catch a tan, when the wind
blows we fill our sails and make good progress and when it is calm
we motor, not to fast as we are also conserving our diesel. We turned
our clocks back another hour yesterday and are now 9 hrs behind SA.
T'was my turn to cook and at 4pm we already finished supper,a huge curry
pot with rice, and we all had second and third helpings. For dessert
Eduan and Steven baked a yummy chocolate cake and Nick made some
custard, so yeh, all that also just vanished into thin air.
Night before last Nick baked the last of the fish we had and we enjoyed
that hugely as well. Must say, we are making the most of the little we
have on board. Our 2minute noodles are finished and for snacks now we
have soup of which we have plenty. We also have plenty of rice left,
pasta, maize meal, flour and so on, but our soya beans etc is starting
to run out. Can you believe it, we might even miss having soya beans on
board. We have lots of pasta sauces etc so we will be ok, we won't
starve. And should we be blessed with a fish again,we will be
laughing our heads off from pure happiness. Yes, we have been at sea now
for nearly a quarter of a year, and we are all looking forward to taking
a break again. Can you imagine how much we will appreciate the small
things that people on land take for granted. Trees and flowers and bees
and things like that. The hustle and bustle of everyday life.
Our position is 07*36'S/103*03'W. We are about 2100nm from Fatu Hiva
where we plan to stop for a few hours and another 800nm from Tahiti,
which at this stage we should reach by 12/04/12.
Hope you had a good Heritage Day and enjoy the rest of the week as well.
Yay, tomorrow is Friday.
Captain Paul
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
Turtle blessings
The Chinese have a great fascination and respect for turtles. We had the
unspeakably great honor of meeting two today. The first was tangled in
some fishing bouy contraption,old floats that was just drifting. We
spotted the bouys and on closer inspection saw the turtle towing this
flotilla of floats around with him. We slowly moved the boat into
position. Eduard first dived in but the tutrle was swimming a bit to
fast for him. Once we got a bit closer Steven dived in, got hold of the
bouys and swam back to the boat, dragging the turtle behind him. Both
motors were off and the diving ladder was down making for easy access
onto the boat. I passed Steven the scissors and with some assistance
from Nick and Eduard Steven eventually managed to free the turtle. What
an amazing feeling to see this turtle diving down deep, something he was
not able to do for who knows how long. It was not all as easy as that as
the turtle was also moving his flippers around making it tricky. His big
bony jaws hissing made us a bit wary but we succeeded in the end.
unspeakably great honor of meeting two today. The first was tangled in
some fishing bouy contraption,old floats that was just drifting. We
spotted the bouys and on closer inspection saw the turtle towing this
flotilla of floats around with him. We slowly moved the boat into
position. Eduard first dived in but the tutrle was swimming a bit to
fast for him. Once we got a bit closer Steven dived in, got hold of the
bouys and swam back to the boat, dragging the turtle behind him. Both
motors were off and the diving ladder was down making for easy access
onto the boat. I passed Steven the scissors and with some assistance
from Nick and Eduard Steven eventually managed to free the turtle. What
an amazing feeling to see this turtle diving down deep, something he was
not able to do for who knows how long. It was not all as easy as that as
the turtle was also moving his flippers around making it tricky. His big
bony jaws hissing made us a bit wary but we succeeded in the end.
I just started the motor and decided to cut the motors again and all of
us had a seashower, soaping ourselves and washing the soap off with
seawater and finally rinsing the seawater off with fesh water. We have
got some way to go still and using the fresh water very sparingly. Quite
a few barnacles have attached themselves under our hulls and Eduard
volunteered to scrape them off with a plastic spatula. Just then we
spotted another turtle swimming towards us. He came right up to the
boat. There is now wind, good current and we were just drifting with the
current. A very friendly turtle this one turned out to be, swimming
leisure around the boat and scraping his back against the hull.He had no
problem with us touching him, swimming with him, and even enjoyed us
scrubbing hgis back with a scrubbing brush, coming back for more every
time. We managed to take some excellent footage and had a most blessed
and sacred experience, to be so close and able to touch this symbol of
good fortune. I was laughing at Steven and the boys speaking like the
turtles in Finding Nemo - The fish asking the tutle how old he is
and the turtle answering -"Hey dude, 150 and still young", speaking slow
and deep.
You must have seen some tv documentaries where they show that these
turtles travel around the globe and come back to exactly the same beach
they were born at years afterwards to come and lay there eggs. And at
the right moment with spring high tides and full moon the small turtles
hatch and make a dash for the safety of the sea. Obviously there are
many predators awaiting this huge event and many don't make it. But
enough of them gets to mature and carry on this cycle, probably for
longer than what man has been on the planet. Nick and myself were just
mentioning how time takes on a whole different meaning out here, or
perhaps no meaning at all.
Well, we certainly believe that the turtles will bring us some good
fortune as far as wind is concerned. We are about 70nm away from the
latitude where we are expecting good winds, according to our weather
files and our charts. Perhaps this is why the Chinese thought of turtles
as bearers of good fortune. They are normally found on the edges of the
currents and if we did not had the modern technology, we would also have
sworn that the turtles brought us good fortune when the wind starts
building for the first time in weeks. Our position currently
is 06*38'S/101*52'W.
Take good care
Captain Paul
Monday, March 19, 2012
Fish, squalls, and calm
At last we landed a nice size bonny. Not a fish I would normally eat,
but a friend of mine who owns a huge fishing charter boat there told me
it is the best fish for sushimi.We were sailing fairly briskly when we
hooked the bonny, Steven on the handline and me on the helm placing us
into a quick hove to position. No fight at all as the bonny's gills were
ripped by the hook when the line stretched no more. Nick was on and off
and on on the other lure, the bonnies were all around us. Eduard took
some underwater videos where you can clearly sea these little predators
on a mission. We were just about ready to have supper when all this
happened, so after landing the bonny we made a few cuts in at the right
places to let it bleed properly, tied a string to it's tail and dragged
him backwards through the water tied to the boat. After supper Eduard
volunteered to fillet the fish and did an excellent job. Him and Nick
had a piece of the liver which Eduard could not stomach but Nick said it
wwas not that bad. The fillets were then placed in a Jiffy bag and
straight into the freezer.
but a friend of mine who owns a huge fishing charter boat there told me
it is the best fish for sushimi.We were sailing fairly briskly when we
hooked the bonny, Steven on the handline and me on the helm placing us
into a quick hove to position. No fight at all as the bonny's gills were
ripped by the hook when the line stretched no more. Nick was on and off
and on on the other lure, the bonnies were all around us. Eduard took
some underwater videos where you can clearly sea these little predators
on a mission. We were just about ready to have supper when all this
happened, so after landing the bonny we made a few cuts in at the right
places to let it bleed properly, tied a string to it's tail and dragged
him backwards through the water tied to the boat. After supper Eduard
volunteered to fillet the fish and did an excellent job. Him and Nick
had a piece of the liver which Eduard could not stomach but Nick said it
wwas not that bad. The fillets were then placed in a Jiffy bag and
straight into the freezer.
We have been motoring and sailing whenever we had some wind trying to
get more south as our weather files showed good trade winds. Long
stretches of totally windless conditions but it was sjust a matter of
time before it would change. The ITCZ zone,or the doldrums, have a few
peculiar elements. Besides no wind mostly, you also have dark heavy
clouds and at night one can sit and marvel as the lightning lights up
these cloud formations all around you. And when it rains it rains
buckets, so much so that we take a length of plastic and rig it as a
raincatcher, funneling water into our watertanks. Not that we are short
of water but more water means more showers for us, so why not.
Yesterday we decided to try the bonny as sushimi and were very
pleasantly surprised at the texture,the taste and a dash of soya sauce,
a slice of pickled ginger with a drop of wasabi and we were having a
feast. For supper Eduard with a bit of advice from me and help from
Steven fried some lovely pieces of bonny.Dip the portion of fish in egg
and roll it in mixture of flour, fish spices, Aromat etc etc. Fry it in
a little bit of oil for a minute or so and served with some spiced rice
we were having a meal of note. Throughout the ITCZ zone itn takes a lot
ofr sail changes to make the most of what you get, then drop the sails
when the wind blows no more, and then up again when the wind is back.
Both Nick and Eduard has now learned how to do this by themselves as we
have a lot of time to practise these moves. Good for them, glad that
they will not only take good memories from this trip but also learned
how to sail a catamaran.
This morning we had our first taste of easterly winds, the winds we were
hoping to find. It did not sneak in softly, it came in with a blast,
about 35 kts+ and we had to drop the mainsail in a hurry and just
maintain with a small section of genoa. Turning the boat around with a
lot of sail is always nerve recking but we did it fast without any
hesitation. An hour later the wind settled and we could raise our twin
headsail again. The sea is not settled yet, the swell coming from a
different angle as the wind but soon the sea, the wind, the swell and
the boat will be in harmony, and we will be making good progress towards
Tahiti.
We are turning our clockanother hour back today which places us 9 hrs
behind SA, or UTC - 7. Our postion at 10am was 05*35'S/099*43'W.
Distance to Tahiti about 3000nm and our ETA remains 08/04/12. All the
best for the week ahead.
Captain Paul
Sunday, March 18, 2012
The Ancient Mariner
Just a little poem for today. Our position @ 5am is 04*45'S/098*21'W. We
are a tad over 3000nm from Tahiti. Enjoy your day and enjoy the poem.
are a tad over 3000nm from Tahiti. Enjoy your day and enjoy the poem.
The Rime of the Ancient Mariner
Part I
It is an ancient Mariner,
And he stoppeth one of three.
`By thy long grey beard and glittering eye,
Now wherefore stopp'st thou me?
The bridegroom's doors are opened wide,
And I am next of kin;
The guests are met, the feast is set:
Mayst hear the merry din.'
He holds him with his skinny hand,
"There was a ship," quoth he.
`Hold off! unhand me, grey-beard loon!'
Eftsoons his hand dropped he.
He holds him with his glittering eye -
The Wedding-Guest stood still,
And listens like a three years' child:
The Mariner hath his will.
The Wedding-Guest sat on a stone:
He cannot choose but hear;
And thus spake on that ancient man,
The bright-eyed Mariner.
"The ship was cheered, the harbour cleared,
Merrily did we drop
Below the kirk, below the hill,
Below the lighthouse top.
The sun came up upon the left,
Out of the sea came he!
And he shone bright, and on the right
Went down into the sea.
Higher and higher every day,
Till over the mast at noon -"
The Wedding-Guest here beat his breast,
For he heard the loud bassoon.
The bride hath paced into the hall,
Red as a rose is she;
Nodding their heads before her goes
The merry minstrelsy.
The Wedding-Guest he beat his breast,
Yet he cannot choose but hear;
And thus spake on that ancient man,
The bright-eyed Mariner.
"And now the storm-blast came, and he
Was tyrannous and strong:
He struck with his o'ertaking wings,
And chased us south along.
With sloping masts and dipping prow,
As who pursued with yell and blow
Still treads the shadow of his foe,
And foward bends his head,
The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast,
And southward aye we fled.
And now there came both mist and snow,
And it grew wondrous cold:
And ice, mast-high, came floating by,
As green as emerald.
And through the drifts the snowy clifts
Did send a dismal sheen:
Nor shapes of men nor beasts we ken -
The ice was all between.
The ice was here, the ice was there,
The ice was all around:
It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
Like noises in a swound!
At length did cross an Albatross,
Thorough the fog it came;
As it had been a Christian soul,
We hailed it in God's name.
It ate the food it ne'er had eat,
And round and round it flew.
The ice did split with a thunder-fit;
The helmsman steered us through!
And a good south wind sprung up behind;
The Albatross did follow,
And every day, for food or play,
Came to the mariner's hollo!
In mist or cloud, on mast or shroud,
It perched for vespers nine;
Whiles all the night, through fog-smoke white,
Glimmered the white moonshine."
`God save thee, ancient Mariner,
From the fiends that plague thee thus! -
Why look'st thou so?' -"With my crossbow
I shot the Albatross."
Part II
"The sun now rose upon the right:
Out of the sea came he,
Still hid in mist, and on the left
Went down into the sea.
And the good south wind still blew behind,
But no sweet bird did follow,
Nor any day for food or play
Came to the mariners' hollo!
And I had done a hellish thing,
And it would work 'em woe:
For all averred, I had killed the bird
That made the breeze to blow.
Ah wretch! said they, the bird to slay,
That made the breeze to blow!
Nor dim nor red, like God's own head,
The glorious sun uprist:
Then all averred, I had killed the bird
That brought the fog and mist.
'Twas right, said they, such birds to slay,
That bring the fog and mist.
The fair breeze blew, the white foam flew,
The furrow followed free;
We were the first that ever burst
Into that silent sea.
Down dropped the breeze, the sails dropped down,
'Twas sad as sad could be;
And we did speak only to break
The silence of the sea!
All in a hot and copper sky,
The bloody sun, at noon,
Right up above the mast did stand,
No bigger than the moon.
Day after day, day after day,
We stuck, nor breath nor motion;
As idle as a painted ship
Upon a painted ocean.
Water, water, every where,
And all the boards did shrink;
Water, water, every where,
Nor any drop to drink.
The very deep did rot: O Christ!
That ever this should be!
Yea, slimy things did crawl with legs
Upon the slimy sea.
About, about, in reel and rout
The death-fires danced at night;
The water, like a witch's oils,
Burnt green, and blue, and white.
And some in dreams assured were
Of the Spirit that plagued us so;
Nine fathom deep he had followed us
From the land of mist and snow.
And every tongue, through utter drought,
Was withered at the root;
We could not speak, no more than if
We had been choked with soot.
Ah! well-a-day! what evil looks
Had I from old and young!
Instead of the cross, the Albatross
About my neck was hung."
Part III
"There passed a weary time. Each throat
Was parched, and glazed each eye.
A weary time! a weary time!
How glazed each weary eye -
When looking westward, I beheld
A something in the sky.
At first it seemed a little speck,
And then it seemed a mist;
It moved and moved, and took at last
A certain shape, I wist.
A speck, a mist, a shape, I wist!
And still it neared and neared:
As if it dodged a water-sprite,
It plunged and tacked and veered.
With throats unslaked, with black lips baked,
We could nor laugh nor wail;
Through utter drought all dumb we stood!
I bit my arm, I sucked the blood,
And cried, A sail! a sail!
With throats unslaked, with black lips baked,
Agape they heard me call:
Gramercy! they for joy did grin,
And all at once their breath drew in,
As they were drinking all.
See! see! (I cried) she tacks no more!
Hither to work us weal;
Without a breeze, without a tide,
She steadies with upright keel!
The western wave was all a-flame,
The day was well nigh done!
Almost upon the western wave
Rested the broad bright sun;
When that strange shape drove suddenly
Betwixt us and the sun.
And straight the sun was flecked with bars,
(Heaven's Mother send us grace!)
As if through a dungeon-grate he peered
With broad and burning face.
Alas! (thought I, and my heart beat loud)
How fast she nears and nears!
Are those her sails that glance in the sun,
Like restless gossameres?
Are those her ribs through which the sun
Did peer, as through a grate?
And is that Woman all her crew?
Is that a Death? and are there two?
Is Death that Woman's mate?
Her lips were red, her looks were free,
Her locks were yellow as gold:
Her skin was as white as leprosy,
The Nightmare Life-in-Death was she,
Who thicks man's blood with cold.
The naked hulk alongside came,
And the twain were casting dice;
`The game is done! I've won! I've won!'
Quoth she, and whistles thrice.
The sun's rim dips; the stars rush out:
At one stride comes the dark;
With far-heard whisper o'er the sea,
Off shot the spectre-bark.
We listened and looked sideways up!
Fear at my heart, as at a cup,
My life-blood seemed to sip!
The stars were dim, and thick the night,
The steersman's face by his lamp gleamed white;
From the sails the dew did drip -
Till clomb above the eastern bar
The horned moon, with one bright star
Within the nether tip.
One after one, by the star-dogged moon,
Too quick for groan or sigh,
Each turned his face with a ghastly pang,
And cursed me with his eye.
Four times fifty living men,
(And I heard nor sigh nor groan)
With heavy thump, a lifeless lump,
They dropped down one by one.
The souls did from their bodies fly, -
They fled to bliss or woe!
And every soul it passed me by,
Like the whizz of my crossbow!"
Part IV
`I fear thee, ancient Mariner!
I fear thy skinny hand!
And thou art long, and lank, and brown,
As is the ribbed sea-sand.
I fear thee and thy glittering eye,
And thy skinny hand, so brown.' -
"Fear not, fear not, thou Wedding-Guest!
This body dropped not down.
Alone, alone, all, all alone,
Alone on a wide wide sea!
And never a saint took pity on
My soul in agony.
The many men, so beautiful!
And they all dead did lie;
And a thousand thousand slimy things
Lived on; and so did I.
I looked upon the rotting sea,
And drew my eyes away;
I looked upon the rotting deck,
And there the dead men lay.
I looked to heaven, and tried to pray;
But or ever a prayer had gusht,
A wicked whisper came and made
My heart as dry as dust.
I closed my lids, and kept them close,
And the balls like pulses beat;
Forthe sky and the sea, and the sea and the sky,
Lay like a load on my weary eye,
And the dead were at my feet.
The cold sweat melted from their limbs,
Nor rot nor reek did they:
The look with which they looked on me
Had never passed away.
An orphan's curse would drag to hell
A spirit from on high;
But oh! more horrible than that
Is the curse in a dead man's eye!
Seven days, seven nights, I saw that curse,
And yet I could not die.
The moving moon went up the sky,
And no where did abide:
Softly she was going up,
And a star or two beside -
Her beams bemocked the sultry main,
Like April hoar-frost spread;
But where the ship's huge shadow lay,
The charmed water burnt alway
A still and awful red.
Beyond the shadow of the ship
I watched the water-snakes:
They moved in tracks of shining white,
And when they reared, the elfish light
Fell off in hoary flakes.
Within the shadow of the ship
I watched their rich attire:
Blue, glossy green, and velvet black,
They coiled and swam; and every track
Was a flash of golden fire.
O happy living things! no tongue
Their beauty might declare:
A spring of love gushed from my heart,
And I blessed them unaware:
Sure my kind saint took pity on me,
And I blessed them unaware.
The selfsame moment I could pray;
And from my neck so free
The Albatross fell off, and sank
Like lead into the sea."
Part V
"Oh sleep! it is a gentle thing,
Beloved from pole to pole!
To Mary Queen the praise be given!
She sent the gentle sleep from heaven,
That slid into my soul.
The silly buckets on the deck,
That had so long remained,
I dreamt that they were filled with dew;
And when I awoke, it rained.
My lips were wet, my throat was cold,
My garments all were dank;
Sure I had drunken in my dreams,
And still my body drank.
I moved, and could not feel my limbs:
I was so light -almost
I thought that I had died in sleep,
And was a blessed ghost.
And soon I heard a roaring wind:
It did not come anear;
But with its sound it shook the sails,
That were so thin and sere.
The upper air burst into life!
And a hundred fire-flags sheen,
To and fro they were hurried about!
And to and fro, and in and out,
The wan stars danced between.
And the coming wind did roar more loud,
And the sails did sigh like sedge;
And the rain poured down from one black cloud;
The moon was at its edge.
The thick black cloud was cleft, and still
The moon was at its side:
Like waters shot from some high crag,
The lightning fell with never a jag,
A river steep and wide.
The loud wind never reached the ship,
Yet now the ship moved on!
Beneath the lightning and the moon
The dead men gave a groan.
They groaned, they stirred, they all uprose,
Nor spake, nor moved their eyes;
It had been strange, even in a dream,
To have seen those dead men rise.
The helmsman steered, the ship moved on;
Yet never a breeze up blew;
The mariners all 'gan work the ropes,
Where they were wont to do;
They raised their limbs like lifeless tools -
We were a ghastly crew.
The body of my brother's son
Stood by me, knee to knee:
The body and I pulled at one rope,
But he said nought to me."
`I fear thee, ancient Mariner!'
"Be calm, thou Wedding-Guest!
'Twas not those souls that fled in pain,
Which to their corses came again,
But a troop of spirits blest:
For when it dawned -they dropped their arms,
And clustered round the mast;
Sweet sounds rose slowly through their mouths,
And from their bodies passed.
Around, around, flew each sweet sound,
Then darted to the sun;
Slowly the sounds came back again,
Now mixed, now one by one.
Sometimes a-dropping from the sky
I heard the skylark sing;
Sometimes all little birds that are,
How they seemed to fill the sea and air
With their sweet jargoning!
And now 'twas like all instruments,
Now like a lonely flute;
And now it is an angel's song,
That makes the heavens be mute.
It ceased; yet still the sails made on
A pleasant noise till noon,
A noise like of a hidden brook
In the leafy month of June,
That to the sleeping woods all night
Singeth a quiet tune.
Till noon we quietly sailed on,
Yet never a breeze did breathe;
Slowly and smoothly went the ship,
Moved onward from beneath.
Under the keel nine fathom deep,
From the land of mist and snow,
The spirit slid: and it was he
That made the ship to go.
The sails at noon left off their tune,
And the ship stood still also.
The sun, right up above the mast,
Had fixed her to the ocean:
But in a minute she 'gan stir,
With a short uneasy motion -
Backwards and forwards half her length
With a short uneasy motion.
Then like a pawing horse let go,
She made a sudden bound:
It flung the blood into my head,
And I fell down in a swound.
How long in that same fit I lay,
I have not to declare;
But ere my living life returned,
I heard and in my soul discerned
Two voices in the air.
`Is it he?' quoth one, `Is this the man?
By him who died on cross,
With his cruel bow he laid full low
The harmless Albatross.
The spirit who bideth by himself
In the land of mist and snow,
He loved the bird that loved the man
Who shot him with his bow.'
The other was a softer voice,
As soft as honey-dew:
Quoth he, `The man hath penance done,
And penance more will do.'
Part VI
First Voice
But tell me, tell me! speak again,
Thy soft response renewing -
What makes that ship drive on so fast?
What is the ocean doing?
Second Voice
Still as a slave before his lord,
The ocean hath no blast;
His great bright eye most silently
Up to the moon is cast -
If he may know which way to go;
For she guides him smooth or grim.
See, brother, see! how graciously
She looketh down on him.
First Voice
But why drives on that ship so fast,
Without or wave or wind?
Second Voice
The air is cut away before,
And closes from behind.
Fly, brother, fly! more high, more high!
Or we shall be belated:
For slow and slow that ship will go,
When the Mariner's trance is abated.
"I woke, and we were sailing on
As in a gentle weather:
'Twas night, calm night, the moon was high;
The dead men stood together.
All stood together on the deck,
For a charnel-dungeon fitter:
All fixed on me their stony eyes,
That in the moon did glitter.
The pang, the curse, with which they died,
Had never passed away:
I could not draw my eyes from theirs,
Nor turn them up to pray.
And now this spell was snapped: once more
I viewed the ocean green,
And looked far forth, yet little saw
Of what had else been seen -
Like one that on a lonesome road
Doth walk in fear and dread,
And having once turned round walks on,
And turns no more his head;
Because he knows a frightful fiend
Doth close behind him tread.
But soon there breathed a wind on me,
Nor sound nor motion made:
Its path was not upon the sea,
In ripple or in shade.
It raised my hair, it fanned my cheek
Like a meadow-gale of spring -
It mingled strangely with my fears,
Yet it felt like a welcoming.
Swiftly, swiftly flew the ship,
Yet she sailed softly too:
Sweetly, sweetly blew the breeze -
On me alone it blew.
Oh! dream of joy! is this indeed
The lighthouse top I see?
Is this the hill? is this the kirk?
Is this mine own country?
We drifted o'er the harbour-bar,
And I with sobs did pray -
O let me be awake, my God!
Or let me sleep alway.
The harbour-bay was clear as glass,
So smoothly it was strewn!
And on the bay the moonlight lay,
And the shadow of the moon.
The rock shone bright, the kirk no less,
That stands above the rock:
The moonlight steeped in silentness
The steady weathercock.
And the bay was white with silent light,
Till rising from the same,
Full many shapes, that shadows were,
In crimson colours came.
A little distance from the prow
Those crimson shadows were:
I turned my eyes upon the deck -
Oh, Christ! what saw I there!
Each corse lay flat, lifeless and flat,
And, by the holy rood!
A man all light, a seraph-man,
On every corse there stood.
This seraph-band, each waved his hand:
It was a heavenly sight!
They stood as signals to the land,
Each one a lovely light;
This seraph-band, each waved his hand,
No voice did they impart -
No voice; but oh! the silence sank
Like music on my heart.
But soon I heard the dash of oars,
I heard the Pilot's cheer;
My head was turned perforce away,
And I saw a boat appear.
The Pilot and the Pilot's boy,
I heard them coming fast:
Dear Lord in heaven! it was a joy
The dead men could not blast.
I saw a third -I heard his voice:
It is the Hermit good!
He singeth loud his godly hymns
That he makes in the wood.
He'll shrieve my soul, he'll wash away
The Albatross's blood."
Part VII
"This Hermit good lives in that wood
Which slopes down to the sea.
How loudly his sweet voice he rears!
He loves to talk with marineers
That come from a far country.
He kneels at morn, and noon, and eve -
He hath a cushion plump:
It is the moss that wholly hides
The rotted old oak-stump.
The skiff-boat neared: I heard them talk,
`Why, this is strange, I trow!
Where are those lights so many and fair,
That signal made but now?'
`Strange, by my faith!' the Hermit said -
`And they answered not our cheer!
The planks looked warped! and see those sails,
How thin they are and sere!
I never saw aught like to them,
Unless perchance it were
Brown skeletons of leaves that lag
My forest-brook along;
When the ivy-tod is heavy with snow,
And the owlet whoops to the wolf below,
That eats the she-wolf's young.'
`Dear Lord! it hath a fiendish look -
(The Pilot made reply)
I am afeared' -`Push on, push on!'
Said the Hermit cheerily.
The boat came closer to the ship,
But I nor spake nor stirred;
The boat came close beneath the ship,
And straight a sound was heard.
Under the water it rumbled on,
Still louder and more dread:
It reached the ship, it split the bay;
The ship went down like lead.
Stunned by that loud and dreadful sound,
Which sky and ocean smote,
Like one that hath been seven days drowned
My body lay afloat;
But swift as dreams, myself I found
Within the Pilot's boat.
Upon the whirl where sank the ship
The boat spun round and round;
And all was still, save that the hill
Was telling of the sound.
I moved my lips -the Pilot shrieked
And fell down in a fit;
The holy Hermit raised his eyes,
And prayed where he did sit.
I took the oars: the Pilot's boy,
Who now doth crazy go,
Laughed loud and long, and all the while
His eyes went to and fro.
`Ha! ha!' quoth he, `full plain I see,
The Devil knows how to row.'
And now, all in my own country,
I stood on the firm land!
The Hermit stepped forth from the boat,
And scarcely he could stand.
O shrieve me, shrieve me, holy man!
The Hermit crossed his brow.
`Say quick,' quoth he `I bid thee say -
What manner of man art thou?'
Forthwith this frame of mine was wrenched
With a woeful agony,
Which forced me to begin my tale;
And then it left me free.
Since then, at an uncertain hour,
That agony returns;
And till my ghastly tale is told,
This heart within me burns.
I pass, like night, from land to land;
I have strange power of speech;
That moment that his face I see,
I know the man that must hear me:
To him my tale I teach.
What loud uproar bursts from that door!
The wedding-guests are there:
But in the garden-bower the bride
And bride-maids singing are;
And hark the little vesper bell,
Which biddeth me to prayer!
O Wedding-Guest! this soul hath been
Alone on a wide wide sea:
So lonely 'twas, that God himself
Scarce seemed there to be.
O sweeter than the marriage-feast,
'Tis sweeter far to me,
To walk together to the kirk
With a goodly company! -
To walk together to the kirk,
And all together pray,
While each to his great Father bends,
Old men, and babes, and loving friends,
And youths and maidens gay!
Farewell, farewell! but this I tell
To thee, thou Wedding-Guest!
He prayeth well, who loveth well
Both man and bird and beast.
He prayeth best, who loveth best
All things both great and small;
For the dear God who loveth us,
He made and loveth all."
The Mariner, whose eye is bright,
Whose beard with age is hoar,
Is gone; and now the Wedding-Guest
Turned from the bridegroom's door.
He went like one that hath been stunned,
And is of sense forlorn:
A sadder and a wiser man
He rose the morrow morn
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