Thursday, April 5, 2012

Fatu Hiva welcomes us

How does one describe seeing land for the first time in a month, edged
out on the horizon with the moon casting her magic spell on the already
magic scene ahead of us. And being nearly full moon, as the moon was
starting to sink into the ocean the sun was starting to reveal the first
signs of a brand new day. At exactly 05:55 we had our anchor secured.
The whole experience approaching the island in the early morning hours ,
to watch the island growing bigger and bigger, the smell of straw or
driftwood, difficult to pinpoint it exactly. This is why I love arriving
at first light, a fairly broad term when the moonbeams pave the way
towards your destination. I can never tire of this feeling, this
awestruck numbness in face of such beauty. Around me there are towering
cliffs covered in lush green vegetation. To the left, to the right, and
when I look straight ahead of me ever deepening layers of cliffs upon
cliffs. I think the best artists to capture this are the Japanese
watercolour paintings depicted scenes like this. A feeling of serenity,
of majesty, of untold beauty.

There are two anchorages at Fatu Hiva and I must have anchored at the
anchorage further west when I was here last five years ago. I was
surprised when a few dim lights here was visible as we approached our
approached our anchorage. There are two othe r yachts here and I
dropped anchor close to the yacht that was lying closest to shore. A few
small fishing vessels are also tied to a few bouys and I had to take
extra care finding the right spot to drop our anchor. After a few
re-adjustments I was happy we tied on the bridle, filled in our log book
and switvched the instruments off. We have arrived. It looked like we
will have to swim ashore and Eduard proceeded to cook some Jungle Oats
as it would take some effort to get ashore, maybe a ten minute swim, and
figured the extra energy would come in handy. By 7am the boys were
ready, a few things wrapped in plastic and time to go and explore a bit.
I opted to stay on the boat, making the excuse that someone has to watch
the boat. Eduard and Steven had just jumped in when the yacht ahead of
us asked if they wanted a lift ashore, which was gracefully acceted.
While the other boat was getting ready the two swam to the tender or
rubber duck or dinghy, whatever you want to call it. Nick was still
aboard getting himself ready for the swim ashore and he was fetched off
our boat.

You may wonder why I opted to stay aboard the boat when paradise was
right here all around me. Sometimes I look at all the beauty around me
and get scared that I may loose myself in it. Perhaps I feel unworthy of
such blessings of stepping on such sacred land. Perhaps I am too
attached to the boat I am on. Perhaps I want some time just by myself. I
have travelled far and wide, and this is without any doubt one of the
most beautiful places on our planet. And I just like to sit on my boat
and look at it, take it in , have a moment. I don't expect anyone to
understand who I am, and what I am. neither do I expect anyone to follow
the path I am on. We all walk our own paths. Am I mad to be like this?
Maybe. Am I certifiable? Certainly. Have I been at sea too long? Can't
be. Anyways, our position is Fatu Hiva, I asked the boys to be back at
noon so we can experience an atholl or two on our way to Tahiti. I also
have some official work to do since it is nearly Easter. I have to
forward all our flight itineries, our boat details etc to Tahiti in
order to comply with officoal regulations and expediate our arrival
procedures there.

Have a most wonderful Easter weekend and will hopefully relay some of
the experiences my crew enjoyed ashore. Until then, hang ten, it is
Easter weekend.

Captain's orders

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