St.Helena touch and go

It is always a most wonderful experience to step ashore at St.Helena. After two weeks at sea, watching the remotest island in the world appearing on the horizon, is a rare pleasure. Up to three years ago, the only way to get to St.Helena, was by water. In 2018, a long debated airport was completed at a cost of three hundred and sixty million British pounds. It is not a touristy island with palm trees and white beaches. It has a rich maritime history, and the most famous passenger that stepped ashore; Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, lived his last days here. It is a huge expense to build an airport for an island of 4500 people. There are obviously some advantages to the airport for the people, but I think it is more a strategic stronghold for the British. Falklands has huge oil reserves, and Argentina claims it as theirs for various reasons. The British have to be able to defend their ownership of the Falklands.

We arrived on the 26th, exactly four months to the day I arrived here last. We had to stay aboard and quarantine for two days, had covid swabs done early on the second day, and on the 29th we were allowed ashore. We met Port Control, Customs and Immigration at the Customs House where we cleared in and had our passports stamped.

We booked accommodation for the night at the legendary Consulate Hotel. We had fish cakes and chips at Anne's Place for early lunch, and for dinner we had pork belly strips. It was a quiet night and we retired to our rooms early. Friday we took on fuel, paid our Port and mooring fees, and had our passports stamped out. I climbed Jacob's Ladder to freshen up some graffiti on step no.428. At last I managed to count how many steps up to this particular step where my daughter and myself sat and scratched her name 13 years ago.

Don and Jane had their laundry done, and caught the last ferry back to the boat at 6pm. Thomas and myself stayed for another night at the Consulate. At about 7pm we went down to The Mule at the wharf and ordered two pizzas. We had a drink or two and moved over to Donny's for a drink. From there we made our way up to the Standard and had a final drink there before we went back to the hotel for an early night again.

Saturday morning had a nice shower. On sea we have short showers to safe water, on land it's a luxury to shower for a few minutes. Had a cup of ground coffee, said our goodbyes and popped at Anne's Place to also greet our friends there.

9am we took a ferry to our boat as our plan was to depart at 10am. We hardly arrived when we noticed that the boat closest to us is now much closer, and in a flash realized our shackle on the mooring bouy had come loose and we were adrift. Just in time managed to start our motors and safely worked our way between the mooring bouys and the yachts tied up there. We were extremely fortunate to be there at the exact time and managed to avoid any mishaps. We rigged our bowsprit again, and soon we were flying our gennaker and making good way towards Brazil. The wind was slightly more than predicted and we made good ground. Sunday and Monday light winds predicted, and we are doing our best to keep on sailing and doing OK. We have limited fuel on board, enough to motor for ten days. We thus have no option but to sail whenever we can, even if we are going a bit slower. Running out of fuel is not an option we want to contemplate.

But here we are, back at sea again. Peaceful, quiet, slowly making way towards Brazil.

I hope you are having a good weekend, and will touch base again tomorrow.

Paul





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St.Helena on the horizon

On the distant horizon, the familiar contours of St.Helena is busy shaping. We are approaching out of the South East, and we have a gentle south easterly breeze pushing us along. We will be arriving before sunset, and with the full moon, it will be a spectacular site. I have arrived at all different times at St.Helena and this will be my 48th visit to the island of the Saints. It is a sunny, warm day out, and one can sense an excitement between the crew. It will be a first visit for the other three crew aboard.

We won't be staying for long, probably two days at most. We want to get to Annapolis before the hurricane season starts, and we will have about 6300nm to go when we depart from St.Helena. This time of the year, the trade winds are less consistent, but we will find the best winds and currents, and make the most of it.

Not sure what the exact procedures will be when we arrive at Jamestown this afternoon. We will radio in, and tie up to a mooring bouy for the night. We will raise our yellow Q flag, indicating that everyone is healthy on board, and that we seek free pratique. In the morning we will possibly be visited by health and port authorities to do a covid swab, and we may have to wait a day or two for the results. We also expect a few other visiting yachts, and hope to meet up with some cruisers we know from Cape Town, and who departed around the time we departed, give or take a few days.

We will most definitely have a burger and a beer at Anne's Place. Before that we have to visit Port Control, Customs, get local travel insurance, then walk up to Immigration and get stamped in. A visit to the Consulate Hotel is also a definite. I have brought the Cape Argus and Cape Times newspapers for Pete. Him and Hazel owns and runs the hotel. An incredibly historical place. He is an ex physics professor, and besides other places, lectured at UCT. He still enjoys sitting back after a busy day and paging through a newspaper. Even if it's two weeks old. Just to get a feel for how things are back home. Hazel is a collector of art, artifacts, books, Persian carpets, statues, antiques and the list goes on. Sharp as a razor blade, and enough make it happen energy to power a city. On the balcony is a life size statue of Napoleon Bonaparte, the Emperor. The balcony looks out on Main street below, and a lovely place to sit a while. I always catch a slight shock or surprise when I
walk
out on to the balcony and see I have company, the statue is very life like. I have been to the house he lived in and also died in, to the grave site where he was buried, he has quite a presence on the island. And at times we would quietly sit and sip on a cognac and observe the fair down below. The road also splits here, Napoleon Street to the left, and Market Street to the right.

Another have to do is to climb Jacob's Ladder. My first time was in 2006, and 699 big steps running up at 45° and even up to 68° incline. It is tough, not extremely, but also not easy. My daughter did it in 2008, when she was five years old. She has always been seriously tenacious. We engraved her name on one of the steps towards the middle, and every time I visit, I climb the ladder to freshly engrave her name. I then take a picture or two of her name on the ladder and send it to her. She will be finishing school this year, and will be visiting St.Helena again next year.

The island has now grown much bigger, the wind has increased slightly, and we will possibly arrive at about 4pm. I will be sharing some pictures and videos of our journey thus far soon. Got some beautiful shots. I hope on your side that things are well, and moving along nicely.

See you at St.Helena

Paul

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Sunday Sunny Sunday

At 2am this morning the wind has gradually shifted from SSE to ESE, and we had to gybe our gennaker in order to aim for St.Helena. Yesterday afternoon Thomas baked the first bread on board, and this brought us besides lovely fresh bread with a superb crust, also a few knots of extra wind. We thus voted Thomas as our resident baker. We have just got enough wind to keep us sailing at a reasonable speed, and we should start seeing St.Helena tomorrow morning, and arrive there during the day. Always amazing after many days at see, to watch an island appearing in the distance, and slowly grow bigger. One experiences a sense of excitement, a sense of accomplishment, and a first landfall after getting used to life at sea.

Of course I have many reasons to get excited whenever St.Helena is on the horizon. I have many staunch friends who live on the island, and it is always good to catch up with them. Hear all the latest news, share my latest news, and generally, just take a break from the ocean. But soon we grow restless again, and before you know it, we will be on our way again and watch the island fade in the distance. Nowadays, I buy a local simcard with lots of data, so that I can share some pictures and videos of our journey so far. Also catch up on some business, and bestest to chat to my family and friends on the various social media platforms. Wifi is quite expensive, and slow, £6.5 an hour and you hardly start before your hour is up. I get a simcard and 20G of data for £40, and I can do everything I need and want to do.

Lovely to report a sunny Sunday out here today. Thomas is busy with his second bread with some dough that from yesterday. I just gobbled the last two slices from yesterday. For lunch today sandwiches with pastrami, cheese, lettuce and mayonnaise. Jane and Don are playing cards, and everything and everyone on board is doing great. We could do with a bit more wind, but Thomas is working on it.

A day or so ago, early hours of the morning, I tried to magically conjure up some wind. I visualized a bit of swell rolling in, a bit of a ripple forming on the ocean surface, hear the boat moving faster and faster through the water, but nada. I should perhaps try a bit longer next time. With the moon nearly full, my 2am to 6am watch is mostly moonlit. And wonderful to sit in the moonlight and play some tunes on the ukulele. My uke's name is Sonja Blade 1. She is not an axe, but she can carve the most wonderful melodies out of thin air. And I send these musical notes up into the sky, and hopefully add to the beauty of our world. Similar to the butterfly effect. There is a thinking that the fludder of a butterfly wing sends vibrations into the air and this vibration moves all around the world. Or dropping a pebble in a pond, and watch the ripple effect circling wider and wider.

On this note I am sending you good vibrations from the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, and with you a stupendously wonder Sunday.

Until tomorrow

Paul



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Light wind blues

Last night the wind died on us again. We had 10kts of wind from behind, which meant the apparent wind in the sail was 6kts, and we were barely doing 4kts. Our gennaker was just holding shape, and at about 3am, the gennaker was collapsing due to a lack of wind. One often has such light winds for days on end, and we try everything to keep on sailing. I've even had a gennaker and a Code 0 sail up at the same time before, but they keep on back filling when the boat goes a bit faster down the swell than the apparent wind speed. As I have said many times before, this is the biggest challenge when out at sea. The global average wind speed is 11kts, and you will encounter many days with such light winds if you are planning to cross oceans. Only one sail in the world that can sail these conditions, and we did brilliantly well with an Oxley Levante sail on my previous crossing, motoring only 60hrs over a distance of 7000nm. What also makes it an amazing experience being able to sail th
ese
light winds, is the sea state. With such little wind, the sea becomes like a big flat lake, and being able to sail such smooth waters, is surreal. We have been motoring since 4am, and expect to do so for another 24hrs.

St.Helena is under 300nm away, and we should arrive there on Monday. Looking forward to sharing some pictures and videos of our trip this far. We will have to take on about 400ltrs of fuel. On my previous trip we only used 120ltrs of diesel over 7000nm. That is about 58nm/ltr,and on average we used 3ltr per day. Thus far we have been getting just over 4nm/ltr. And we still have over 6000nm to go. Not that our boat is slow or need a lot of wind to sail. We have North X1 cross radial sails, a top down furling Code 0, a gennaker, and Gori folding props. We just don't have an Oxley Levante. I would happily leave the Code 0 and the gennaker behind, and just take an Oxley Levante, and Gori folding props. We had fixed props on my previous crossing, and the Gori folding props makes a substantial difference in sailing speed, and wear and tear on the sail drives. My idea of perfect sailor's world, a catamaran with an Oxley Levante sail and Gori folding props, and thousands of miles of
open
ocean. I believe I can improve on the 60hrs motoring used on my previous crossing, and achieve a better average speed as well on the same boat, and same time of the year. I may have an opportunity to do just that, a Leopard L50 from Cape Town to Fort Lauderdale in December.

Yesterday late we brought our lures in, and I could feel there was a bit of resistance on my line. Quite surprised to find a baby dorado on the end of the line. It was still well alive, and we released it. Jane was slightly perturbed saying she could have eaten that fish. We have been fishing for days and this was our first catch, can't blame her. I just trust that by returning the undersized dorado, we will catch a bigger one soon. This morning there are quite a few bonnies swimming with us. I have only seen this a few times before, and amazing how these small tuna family fish can keep up with us. I'm not a big fan of eating bonnies, I find them quite bland, and red meat. Friends of mine in Seychelles who would know better than me, say it is the best fish for sushimi. The waxlike substance that one can scrape of a bonnie is apparently used by taxidermist for coloring as well.

I hope you have a wonderful weekend ahead, and chat again soon.

Paul

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Mysterious Moon

I usually do the 2am to 6am watch. Last night, as many times before, I got a little shock when I saw the yellow half moon on the horizon busy setting when I came up for my watch. Just that it was an unexpected and pleasant surprise, and anything on the horizon draws my attention immediately. Soon it was completely dark and all the stars came out to play. During my early watch hours, the moon is often my close companion, and we have a special bond. Whether waxing or waning, I always find it mesmerizing, sailing quietly through the sky. I should mention that I spend a lot of time out on the ocean with nothing but clear skies above me for thousands of miles around, and months on end. And naturally I ponder on these things in the sky.

It eventually dawned on me that the moon is absolutely essential for life as we know it on planet earth. Just as important as the sun. And through some research I have found that the exact size of the moon, the sun and the earth, and the distances apart, is in perfect balance and alignment to sustain life. The moon has a huge effect on water, and our planet is also known as the blue planet, and 70% covered by water. Our bodies consist 70% of water. The moon waxes and wanes, and tides roll in and out, and depending on the moon phase, the tides vary. Close to the equator there is not much tidal movement, places closer to the poles have huge tidal variations. It is in this intertidal zone that life on land first started. The area between the high tide and low tide. On the equinoxes during March and September these tides are at their highest and lowest levels. Continuous fluctuations. A whole nother world comes alive during these periods. Seaturtles come ashore to lay their eggs,
after
traveling thousands of miles around the ocean, to the same beach, same time. Gives a new meaning to see you next year same time same place. How do these gentle creatures navigate the oceans so flawlessly, and time it to perfection? In the forests other creatures and trees and plants also do their full moon thing.

From what I've learned, earth was apparently just a huge rock in the sky. It got whacked by a meteorite, which caused clouds to form, and from the clouds, rain. Until the whole planet was covered by water. Eventually the rain stopped and land started appearing. It is fascinating that one finds marine fossils on some of the highest mountains, far away from the ocean. Where and how marine life first formed I have not the foggiest idea. And then life on land formed. Where did the first algae that formed on land come from? From the sea I guess, and tentatively adapted to and thrived on dry and wet conditions. And all the other forms of life that followed. I hear the word evolution. But for anything to evolve, it must first exist. When one thinks of the huge variety and forms of life in the ocean and on land, it truly boggles the mind. It then would seem that all life must have started from the sea. And perhaps the reason why we are so attracted by it, at our deepest levels.

All these natural manifestations of life have a very close relationship with the the moon. I always love the sound of wolfs howling at the full moon. A lot of activity, both on land and in the ocean, happens during the full moon period. The moon also effects currents around the ocean. I noticed many years ago that at times it feels like you are sailing downhill, and at other times uphill. My feelings were confirmed as fact by a NASA study that shows how the moon orbits our planet, and the oval shape it creates in the ocean, shifting around as the moon shifts. And one literally is at times going downhill, and at other times uphill. So many things I don't know. And the more I know, the more I know how little I know.

We've been motoring for a day or so, and early this morning some clouds sailed in, and with that, also a bit of wind. At 3am I unfurled the genoa and motorsailing it was just holding shape, and a tad more speed. At 8am there was not much wind, but enough to rig our gennaker and set it perfectly to sail on a breeze. Switch the motor off, smoothly and quietly on our way to St.Helena. Our fishing lures are out trolling, a lazy flying fish or two, who knows.

So when you look at the moon again, you now know; if it wasn't for the moon, you would not exist 🐺

See you on the flip side

Paul

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Musings and ramblings from a mariner

We had a good run under the gennaker yesterday, and decided to keep it up for the night as the weather looked anything but threatening. At 2am the wind died on us, we started a motor, and we bagged the gennaker. The 5kts apparent wind was too little to fly the gennaker. Every little surge we get, the gennaker backfills, and becomes a bit jittery. Even with bungee attached to the sheet, it would keep on collapsing. This is where the Oxley Levante is in it's element. We could fly it in 3kts apparent wind, and it would stay in shape, and drag us along. Light winds is besides being the biggest challenge, also long lasting. One can have weeks of light winds. Strong winds normally blow over after a few hours, or start easing after a few days. Over all, light winds are far more prevalent than strong winds. We have a gennaker on board, a top down furling Code 0, North X1 main and head sail, and even a storm sail. None of these are of any use in these light conditions.

The sun is extra hot today with the glare from the fairly smooth sea surface, and clear blue skies. Last night was once again a spectacular night to watch the stars and be rewarded with a shooting star every now and then. Something special about a shooting star. It happens so quick, mostly just for a second or two, and you are perhaps the only person in the world that witnessed it. Is it a sign? I think so. I often experience a beautiful thought, and see a shooting star at the same time.

Last night I was wondering again why people go sailing. Are there as many reasons as there are people who go sailing? On the whole though, I guess people want to go sailing to escape from something. Not to escape life, but rather to go and live life. A life less experienced, a life less structured and predictable. On land we are bombarded by indoctrination of all kinds, and our minds are filled with mental pollution. And we happily sit and passively absorb it in front of our big screen tv's. Whether sport, politics, religion, commerce or other activities. Not all of it is bad though, selective viewing can be great. But to sit and watch tv to kill time, time you will never have again, is such a waste.

On some of my crew applications, I read people want to go and find themselves. I have learned that wherever you go, there you are. The person in the mirror, is it a stranger, or do you know this person. Are you best friends with this person. I have also learned that instead of finding one self, one constantly creates one self. Or you get stuck in a rut and are no longer evolving. Never too late to break away, and live your life. I am lucky. I have always known what my passions are, and live them. I am surprised by how many people do not have passions, or ask me how do you know what your passion is. They are slaves to a system and prefer to have rules and laws that guide them. Easier to follow a path if you have a road map and millions of people that went before you. No surprises here.

To make your own way demands much more of you. To be accountable to yourself, to take conscientious responsibility for your actions, especially when no one is looking, that is where you will find the real you. Your Higher Self. And perhaps what people mean when they are out to find themselves, is that they are referring to their Higher Self.

If you operate from your Higher Self, you will have very different intentions and compassion. To yourself, and to everyone and everything around you. You will know that life is sacred, and live life accordingly.

Life is not always following winds and seas, and smooth sailing. But you will be surprised by how quickly you can adapt to your environment, and live your life with Love. Your choice. So sell, up, buy a boat, and go live your life 😊

Chat again soon

Paul



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A week at sea

It's been a week since we departed from Cape Town. We have logged 1050nm so far, at an average of 6.25kts. Yesterday it was time to rig the gennaker for the first time. Before long our white and blue kite was flying, and we were making miles merrily. AWS didn't exceed 12kts, but for various reasons we decided to douse it for the night shift. Furled out our genoa again and had a stress free night. Always a bit stressful to fly a downwind sail at night. Eventually we do it, and sometimes we get tested when a squall comes over and you have to bring it down in the dark early hours of the morning. It's been a long time since that happened to me, but the lesson still lingers. In settled trade conditions we happily fly it for a week non-stop, and radar technology also nowadays can warn you of some weather coming your way. 

A bit of a grey, overcast day here by us, although there are patches of blue appearing. Our fishing lures are out, you never know.    Haven't  seen any flying fish for a few days now, or dolphins or whales, or ships for that matter. Jane is feeling much stronger today, the ocean has settled nicely into a peaceful rhythm. 

Which reminds me. Yesterday I checked out a new Spanish song for ukulele, and super chuffed that I could learn this truly beautiful piece of music in a day. Lots of time for things like this out at sea. 
If you want to check out the particular song, YouTube Marco Cirillo Ukelele "Beautiful Spanish melody on ukulele". I normally take a long time to learn a new song, the ukulele is quite new to me. But what an expressive instrument it is turning out to be. Gifted to me by my high school sweetheart and dream girl, who is now also my wife. I have urged her to take up the Cajon drum. I prefer to sit and make music at night far more than sit and watch tv. Together we will have lots of fun and laughs and beautiful moments. And make some noise 👏🙌🎶

Every hour we are closi   ng in  on St. Helena. We should be arriving this weekend. Too far away to predict what time, but even if we arrive at night, we will tying up to a mooring bouy. I know the place well enough to do a night entry. Hopefully there will be a few other yachts that left a day or two before us, and it will be great to catch up and share our experiences. 

I am attaching a picture of our first flight with our gennaker. The quality will not be good as I am sending it via limited broadband on satellite. But it should give you an idea of what it is like to be out here. 

Wishing you a wonderful Wednesday. 

Until next time 

Paul 




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